Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog

The Ultimate CA Wine Blog

I've not done the looking around to see if wine bloggers tend to be men. My guess is that they are since it's far and away a "man thing" to talk about and discuss wine.

However, I could easily be convinced that women are better natural tasters than men. In fact I've heard compelling arguments that women make better natural winemakers because they are natural nurturers best demonstrated by their child birth responsibilities. In fact, it was a female winemaker I worked with who made this claim. And it was hard to argue with her wines.

That said, Carolyn Tilly is an accomplished writer and wine enthusiast who has undertaken the responsibilities of wine blogging. Her new blog, The Ultimate California Wine Blog, has so far delivered two really very good reviews of a couple Napa Valley wineries.

I'm looking forward to reading much more from Carolyn. I hope she posts often. You've got to like the bar she's set for herself with the very name of her blog.

The Story Behind Robert Parker

The London Review of Books has published a very thoughtful article by Steven Shapin on the controversy that seems to forever follow Robert Parker...that of the influence of his palate on world wide winemaking trends.

Ostensibly Shapin is reviewing Parker's guides in the context of the swipes and accusations made at him in the movie, Mondovino. The notion is that the influence of Robert Parker's reviews have led to the devaluation of unique, terroir-driven wines throughout the world and the emergence of a monolithic "new world style" that emphasizes big fruit, soft tannin and varietal supremacy over individuality.

I think I've admitted before that this controversy interests, inspires and fascinates me on a number of levels. There is so much going on here that spill over into so many areas of the wine industry. There are the issue of exploding quality in the New World wine regions, lower consumption in France, whether the impact of Parker's palate affects the vintners and trade or if it's a consumer-driven impact, the questions of whether or not wineries should make wine for Parker's palate, and many more issues.

I for one think that Robert Parker's influence has been a good one.

This article is well worth spending time with. It encapsulates the issues surrounding the influence of Robert Parker quite well.

Lose Your Sense of Decency...for only $19.95

"How to Sound Like a Wine Expert - In 10 Minutes Or Less"

I think this is a great one line value proposition, especially if aimed at people who have decided they want to learn more about wine. But it also strikes me as indicative of the overblown expectations too many people have adopted when it comes to learning a new skill or talent.

But the problem is that this offer isn't aimed at people who want to learn more about wine. It's aimed at people who believe that if you can fool someone into believing you are an expert, you are, by default, an expert. There are some pretty deep philosophical implications to this idea having to do with reality vs. perception, language as a constructive path to the creation of reality, and the maleability of morals and ethics.

This offer of becoming an "instant Wine Expert" by sounding like one comes from Stephen Reiss,Ph.D, author of WineEducation.com and a Certified Wine Educator. Reiss is the author of "Juice Jargon: How to Sound Like a Wine Expert."

In a press release he offers this opportunity to fool people if you only purchase his book for $19.95 plus shipping and handling.

Based on Dr. Reiss' website, there is every indication that he has a very deep understanding of wine. And though I've not read his book, his description of its contents and what it can teach indicate he understands how to communicate, write and educate.

What bothers me, and should bother anyone who values the time they've taken to understand wine or any other discipline, are two things: 1) His willingness to support and encourage the idea of shortcuts to success and 2) his apparent belief that success is achieved by fooling people into believing something that just isn't true.

Reiss understands that there are significant barriers to being comfortable talking about wine. He understands that these barriers can be intimidating. What he doesn't understand is that by going around a barrier, rather than over it, you simple leave more barriers behind for the next person to have to overcome. 

Wine Terms for Those Who Care and Those Who Don't

Andrew over at Spittoon found an interesting article that explores the meaning of a new word, "Linearity", that seems to be coming into vogue among professional tasters and winemakers for describing a wine. What's interesting is that there is immediate debate about what the word means.

I think what we have here is an example of a French academic applying his intellectual interests (linguistics and philosophy) to wine descriptions. It sounds fun to me.

However, it's important to remember that there are two types of wine writing and wine descriptions: One set of wine language for those who care, and another set for those who do not. For those who care, the term "linearity" is a new toy. For those who don't it's confusing and useless.

I Take No Responsibility...Now, Give me Money!!

Where does personal responsibility end and corporate responsibility begin? For me, this question has always been answered by determining who was primarily responsible for causing the effect. So, if I drink too much zinfandel, walk to my car, get in, start the ignition, drive away, then break my neck when I drive into a tree I pretty much have to identify myself as the causing the effect. I mean who else could be responsible for this?

Do I point to the person who first introduced me to Zinfandel? What about the car manufacturer who didn't create a way for my vehicle to recognize that I was unfit to drive? Then there is the vendor who sold me the Zinfandel. No....this doesn't work. I caused the effect. I'm responsible.

We who tend to fall on the moderate to liberal side of the aisle usually keep a close eye on corporations. Many have a history of screwing consumers, shareholders and employees. Yet, holding large corporations or whole industries responsible for the irresponsible acts of youth seems hardly fair.

Yet, this report demonstrates that a number of lawsuits filed against large alcohol companies seek significant damages for the companies' alleged roles in alcohol related accidents and alcohol-related stupidity.

Most of these lawsuits claim that alcohol companies are aggressively marketing to youth and are therefore in violation of a number of state laws and responsible for the effects of alcohol-induced stupors that come when minors drink.

"The suits seek court-ordered limits on beverage promotion, such as restricting ads on TV shows and publications with large youth audiences.      They also seek damages for parents or kids who paid for alcohol illegally consumed by minors."

I had to read this last sentence three or four times. Does this mean, according to those who filed these suits, that if they win this lawsuit all I have to do is claim I've bought alcohol for minors and I'll get a payout.

Does this seem...well...ludicrous?

The wine industry likely has little to worry about. You'd be hard pressed to find any marketing or ads that speak to anyone under 45 years of age. But many of those companies involved in these suits, while exposed mainly for their marketing of beer and spirits, do have interest in wine. Diageo is one such company having to defend it's marketing practices from the purveyors of the "No Responsibility Have We" view of the world.

Cork Taint Is Too High at 8.5%

How is this not a reason for despair?

According to Cyril Penn , Editor of Wine Business Monthly and contributing writer to the San Francisco Chronicle 8.5% or one in every 12 bottles entered into the 2004 Macquarie Bank Sydney Royal Wine Show were corked...Contaminated by trichloroanisole, or TCA.

While TCA can get into a wine without the help of a cork, it is the cork that is the culprit in the vast majority of cases.

8.5%???

Everytime studies like this emerge winemakers and winery owners give more and more thought to how they can introduce screwcaps or other alternative closures to their wines without driving away customers who think such closures equal cheap wine. They don't of course, but too many casual consumers think so.

The first step is usually to introduce screwcaps or fake corks to early drinking white wines. But it's not easy for a marketer to put a screwcap on a $30 Cabernet.

It's an easier move if you are making relatively little of this wine and you sell a majority of it to a loyal following through a mailing list rather than at retail or in restaurants.

Still.....8.5%??? That's got to make it easier to abandon cork.

The Power of Robert Parker and The Wine Spectator

I've always contested the notion that Robert Parker's and the Wine Spectator's reviews have too much power to move consumer habits. Usually you hear this from consumers who don't like the wines these reviewers like or from vintners who haven't gotten the scores from them they think their wines deserve.

Rather, it has always been my contention that it is with distributors and retailers where Mr. Parker's and the Wine Spectator's power is really manifested. Here is a tale that explains this.

Yesterday, I was ringing up a sales managers at a client's various wholesalers and brokers. Our intent was to improve on the monthly email that is sent to them. Now, in this email we deliver news from the winery, sales tools, background on vineyards and winemaking, and a great deal of information we would not release to the public. The basic idea is to give them news and tools the sales staff at the distributors can use to help make more placements of the brand.

My question to all the distributors around the country (I spoke with 20 yesterday) was: "what kind of information can we provide you with regularly that will help in your sales efforts."

All but three Sales Managers, owners or off-premise managers had the same response:

"Give us a great review from Parker or the Wine Spectator"

What can I tell them?: "Well, we'll see what we can do, but is there any thing else, maybe different case cards or shelf talkers or sales materials or in-market visits?

Half of those who wanted a good review responded, "No, just get us reviews from Parker and Spectator."

Add to this the fact that at 6 of the distributors I spoke with sales were not going well. When I asked why, 5 of them said because we didn't have a score of 90 or above from Parker or The Wine Spectator.

I've been known to express the opinion that too many distributor "sales people" are nothing more than order takers. I can add to that that too many of them are "pathetic order takers".

This client has wines that once on the shelf, regardless of scores and ratings, sells well. The wine is dynamite. Yet at the distributor level too many "sales people" believe in only pushing wines with the top scores. This client has had quite a few wines that scored very well both with the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker. And guess what? When these scores have appeared, the wholesalers have pushed the wines and taken credit for a job well done. Without the scores they say things like, "well, it's tough out there...you need to do more than just make good wine."

The consolidation at the Wholesale level has created huge books of different wineries at many distributors; so huge that it's impossible for sales people to adequately represent their winery clients. So, they choose to only push those that have 90 points or above. They do this for three reasons: 1) generally sales skills at this level are pathetic 2) too many retailers and restaurauteurs have become used to being presented with wines that either have high scores or are discounted and 3) generally sales skills at this level are pathetic.

There are a number of markets in which my clients wines are selling briskly. Very briskly. Guess what's different about these markets. The distributor's book of clients is relatively small and their sales staff is composed of veterans in the business.

Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator are both good for the wine industry. They are good for consumers. But the fact is much of their power to move the market is based on a generation of sales people having been taught to focus only on score.

Riedel Is Watching

It's not enough that Riedel has convinced me that their glassware is the best in the business. Now they can keep an eye on where I'm using their glassware.

When Riedel named Sonoma's Wine Country Party & Events here their West Coast rental distributor they did so in large part because Wine Country Party utilizes GPS technology to track where their delivery trucks and what's in them. It's a web-based system that allows Riedel in Austria to track where their glasses are being used.

The privacy advocate in me stops for a moment and thinks about that concept. But I move on because I'm really not bothered. If Riedel wants to know if I'm using their glassware at a winery event or at my own private party, I can't imagine how that matters.

You've got to give it to Wine Country Party, though. Very cool use of new technology. So cool it apparently got them a great account.

Top Ten Reasons To Visit Sonoma Valley

For those of you who are not aware of it, I'm lucky enough to live in Sonoma. Specifically, I live in the small town of Glen Ellen. This area is a wine and food lover's paradise. But, there's more than just wine and food that recommends Sonoma Valley. I've wanted to do this for some time. So here it is:

THE TOP 10 REASONS FOR VISITING SONOMA VALLEY

  10. World Championship Pillow fights

Every Fourth of July, in the Valley town of Kenwood, the best pillow fighters in the world gather to determine who slings the sack best. Straddling a metal poll that lies across a mud-filled crevice, competitors whack one another until one takes the mud dive. Spectators lounge on the grassy inclines surrounding the "pit", drink wine, eat barbecue and judge that they could easily win if only they entered. It's one of those things like the Tour de France, World Series and the Super Bowl that we all should experience in person once in our lives.

9. Driving Trinity Road in a Sports Car

There is a special road that takes one from Sonoma Valley, over the Mayacamas Range and drops you into Oakville. Trinity Road is a curvy up and down experience that only driving aficionados can truly appreciate. Trinity road winds its way through oak groves, redwood tree groves, around hairpin turns, past mountain vineyards and finally down a steep slope into Napa Valley. It was once named one of the best driving roads by Car & Driver Magazine. The trek is best taken in a small sport car, top down around 6:30 in the morning in the summer.

8. Sonoma Plaza

It's been the heart of the town for more than 100 years. Today, the plaza is a tree-filled oasis of soft grass, playgrounds, paths, duck ponds and shade that make it the perfect place to hang for a couple of hours with a bottle of wine and a picnic lunch. Surrounding the plaza on four sides are shops and restaurants. Sonoma was not always a tourist stop. Though much of the commerce that goes on there today is tourism related you can still find the old mens clothing shop, the banks, a grand old theatre and more that has served locals for years. But in addition, it's filled with eclectic shops, great restaurants and a numerous places to sit outside and watch people stroll by. The Sonoma Wine Exchange is a must stop. It has a great collection of local wines, many very hard to find gems.

7. Restaurants

The number of really outstanding restaurants in Sonoma Valley is startling and diverse. While there is a decided leaning toward "wine country" cuisine you'll also find raw bars, great Mexican food (both trendy and dives), Portuguese, authentic Italian, Steak houses, ranch food, and great little holes in the wall. Among my favorite: Meritage (Sonoma), Girl and the Fig (Sonoma), Saddles (Sonoma), Kenwood Restaurant (Kenwood), The Glen Ellen Inn (Glen Ellen), Cafe Citti (Kenwood).

6. Glen Ellen

Jack London made Glen Ellen his home and today his former ranch is a State Historical Park. There was a time when this tiny town boasted 8 different bars and saloons. Before that it was a resort spot where San Francsicans would come for the summer to enjoy the two creeks that come together here, to hike, to fish and to drink. Today, most people like to describe Glen Ellen as "quaint and funky". And it is. Downtown, such as it is, holds a funky bar, a great upscale market, a number of B&Bs, a auto repair shop, 4 restaurants, a bank, real estate offices and that's about it. It's off the main highway and a great place to spend an afternoon strolling before getting a bite to eat.

5. Sonoma Valley as Base Camp

If you want to plan a trip to "Wine Country" Sonoma Valley is perfect. If the Valley and nearby Carneros won't satisfy your wine tasting desires, Napa Valley is 20 minutes away, Russian River Valley is a half hour away, Dry Creek about 40 minutes away, Alexander Valley 40 minutes away and San Francisco is only 45 minutes away. The Valley is a perfect place to base yourself if you are looking for a Wine Country vacation.

  4. Heart of the Valley Barrel Tasting

The Heart of Sonoma Valley Association is a group of wineries in the Valley towns of Glen Ellen and Kenwood that work cooperatively to promote their part of the Valley. The Association is made up of about 20 wineries. Each March they roll out the barrels for 2 days and give you a taste of what's to come. It's really a great event. But because it's two days long, you can take your time at each winery, enjoy the wine, talk to the winemakers, sample the copious food that is set out and get to know this northern part of Sonoma Valley. This event still flies under the radar compared to the bigger weekend events in Russian River Valley and Carneros. So it still has the "friend-to-friend" feel about it.

3. History

Sonoma Valley is one of those areas where you can still see and even feel the history as you familiarize yourself with the region. We still have the Mission Sonoma. Remnants and memorials to the "uprising" that was called the Bear Flag Revolt and that led to California independence is still on view. The east side of Sonoma is filled with older homes, some 100 years old others built in the 20s and 30s and 40s that are stunning pieces of architecture. Stone walls seen throughout the valley look back on a day when property lines were not made up of wire fencing. Old wineries and ghost wineries still stand.

2. Back Roads

When I first moved to Glen Ellen I familiarized myself by getting out in my car and driving. Sonoma Valley is filed with amazing backroads that take you up steep hills, into the hinterland where cows and horses graze. Warm Springs Road, Bennett Valley Road, Cavedale Road, Dunbar Road, Henno Road, Nun's Canyon Road, Adobe Creek Road, Lawndale Road. As you drive these little two lane, tree-line beauts you come around corners to find ancient vineyards, old farm houses, redwood groves, open fields. It's invigorating. A day could be taken just driving slowing, off the beaten path.

1. The Wineries

Makes sense right? The combination and diversity of wineries in Sonoma Valley is impressive. We have a few big boys as well as a number of small boutique efforts. It really is impossible to go after them all even in a three day trip. However, there's nothing wrong with giving that a try. That said, I do have some favorite tasting rooms and wineries that you really should get to:
Chateau St. Jean (Kenwood-great variety and incredible quality for a large concern), Mayo Family Winery (Glen Ellen-the epitome of the small, boutique winery. They make only small lot, vineyard designated wines), Sebastiani (Sonoma-Impressive history and a renewed emphasis on high quality wines that has paid off immediately), Kaz Winery (Kenwood-A micro winery offering some of the most eclectic blends and varietals in California), Schug Carneros Estate (Sonoma-PINOT!!), Benziger Family Winery (Glen Ellen-A great family that delivers a wonderful winery experience for the visitor from its wines to the education you get when visiting).

GET MORE SONOMA VALLEY INFO

Wine blogging Wednesday: Wacky Wine Names

Not so much a "Wacky Wine Name" but rather a Wine with a Wacky Tale.

The 1988 Clos Pegase Napa Valley Hommage was the winery's high-end, reserve Cabernet. Each vintage owner Jan Shrem chooses a painting from his enormous and amazing collection of modern art and slaps it on the label. Well, when he slapped this label on his wine, the BATF slapped him back.

The BATF told Jan that the wine label was "obscene". Now keep in mind the art on this particular wine was 'Nu Chamarre" or "Bedecked Nude", created by the great Jean Dubuffet. That didn't matter to the BATF. The jewels were in plain sight and that was a "no no", regardless of the fame of the artist or the work.

At the time I was handling Close Pegase's public relations. When the BATF told us the label had been denied approval for its obscenity, well, we almost flew to Washington to give each and every member of the BATF staff a kiss on the mouth. Was there anything they could have done to give us more publicity?

In the end, Jan actually "castrated" the label by reprinting it, but cutting it off just above the you-know-what. We released the wine and then we sent off a press release to everyone with an address and a typewriter. To this day, that press release remains the only time I've ever used the word "castrated" in a headline. Probably in a story or press release for that matter.

Finally, in 1993, the BATF approved use of the full artwork for a wine label. Clos Pegase released a 1998 Cabernet with the approved label.

I'd Have Chosen the Grace Family Cab

Tragic, but....

"The hollow boxes with blinking lights are worthless. But there is nothing phony about Barton Watson's corporate wine cellar.

Harlan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon valued at $1,354 a bottle. Joseph Phelps Insignia Red worth $450. Grace Family Cabernet at $895....

 

In the hours before his suicide, Watson spoke of his fondness for expensive wine.

He called a Kent County Sheriff's Department dispatcher to tell authorities he planned to shoot himself, then bragged about his assets, including the $700 bottle of La Tache, vintage 1997, he claimed to be drinking at the time.

    During the lengthy 911 call, he lectured the dispatcher about what made a good wine and laughed at the man's admission that a $12 bottle probably was the best he ever had."

The Snowballing of Moderate Wine Consumption

The way by which facts, ideas or myths become accepted and common knowledge among the broader public is an important dynamic. Politicians and marketers in particular study the mechanics of how something moves from below the radar to above it.

In public relations one of the rules that govern the practice is that if you say it over and over and over again, eventually "IT" will become common knowledge.

The idea that wine in moderation is good for you first came to light not as a result of it being said over and over. It was an idea catapulted into the national consciousness by a report on 60 minutes some years back that looked at the so-called "French Paradox". That report noted how the French, who consume much more fat than Americans seem to be healthier and have less heart disease. The main explanation was that they drink more wine than us. This single report helped increase the consumption of red wine in the U.S. dramatically.

The report opened eyes, elevated the idea that wine is good for you to water cooler status, got people talking and even affected sales.

However, now I think we are seeing the idea that moderate consumption of wine is good for you moving into the status of common knowledge. And this transformation of an idea that is talked about into an idea that is well-known and accepted has resulted from the rule of "saying it over and over and over again."

For the past several years we have seen at least two or three well publicized studies showing that moderate consumption of wine has positive affects on some aspect of health.

The most recent revelation is that moderate consumption of wine among women makes them less likely to experience dementia when they age and keeps their mined sharp. The study has been reported everywhere from Wine Country to China. The number of studies that show other positive affects of alcohol consumption are too many to note, but this story touches on them.

All this is good for sales of wines and I believe any continued increase in consumption of wine in America will be partially reflective of this idea becoming common knowledge.

The next step is to see wine being recommended by those who take a real risk in doing so: Doctors, lawyers and government agencies. While many doctors do not recommend people who don't drink take it up, they do often recommend note to patients that moderate alcohol consumption is good. And the recent dietary guidelines issued by the U.S. government, while not a full endorsement of drinking wine, did suggest there was nothing wrong with moderate consumption.

I'm convinced that this snowball is just beginning to gain steam.

Am I a sinner? Depends Where I Worship.

Here's a news report you likely won't see aired in the Blue states.

WHNT-TV, serving Huntsville, Alabama, recently sent reporter Jeff Butera out to discover if it's ok with God to drink. Apparently down in their neck of the woods the good citizens may have the opportunity to vote on whether certain counties should go dry or become wet, and furthermore if some areas should be allowed to have alcohol sold on Sundays.

By the way, is Jeff Butera old enough yet to even care about this question?

Anyway, I've had this discussion on a few occasions with very devout and pious people. My reading of the bible suggests that drinking alcohol, particularly wine, comes nowhere near being a sin. In fact, my reading of scripture suggests drinking wine, as long as it is in moderation, is something Jesus advocated...he did, after all, turn wine into water for the purpose of drinking:

"And saith unto him, Every man at the beginning doth set forth good wine; and when men have well drunk, then that which is worse: but thou hast kept the good wine until now. This beginning of miracles did Jesus in Cana of Galilee, and manifested forth His glory; and His disciples believed on Him" (John 2:10-11 KJV)

We also know that Jesus himself drank wine:
"And He took the cup, and gave thanks, and gave it to them, saying, Drink ye all of it; For this is My blood of the New Testament, which is shed for many for the remission of sins. But I say unto you, I will not drink henceforth of this fruit of the vine, until that day when I drink it new with you in My Father's Kingdom"

Being a good reporter, young Mr. Butera finds a Catholic Abbot who tells us drinking is fine, in moderation, a minister from the Church of Christ who says drinking is a sin, and a Baptist pastor who says, basically, it depends.

Across the "red states" we have hundreds of laws in local communities that make it illegal to buy alcohol on Sunday, or purchase alcohol after a certain hour. These laws are a reflection of local culture and tradition, most of them borne out of local religious attitudes. It's hard to get worked up over such laws. They are perfect reflection so how religious attitudes are manifested in the democratic arena.

Still, Jesus did turn water into wine.

Don't Say It's Yummy...You Could Kill Someone

Everyone seems to think America has screwy wine laws. And we do. Chalk it up to our predominantly protestant heritage and the extreme temperance inclinations that go along with that broadly defined approach to worship.

But when you consider a recent change in the French alcohol advertising laws you really have to wonder if the French aren't more screwed up than us.

Last week the French Senate hammered out a compromise with the country's anti-alcohol contingent that vintners in that country hope will allow them to better compete in their own market place. A new amendment to the wine advertising laws will now make it legal to describe color, aroma and flavors of wines in print and television ads.

The question that just popped into your head was the right one: "They couldn't do this before?"

For the most part French wine advertising has amounted to little more than a bottle shot and the name of the chateau or domaine. Nothing more. Why? Apparently the country's anti-alcohol crusaders had convinced lawmakers that if winemakers were allowed to say something like, oh, like "Our family has been producing fine Bordeaux for 100 years" there was just too much of a possibility that people would go out and kill themselves with alcohol.

Wait, they can't say that now, can they? No, if I read this correctly, only color, aroma and flavor can be offered in an ad. So, the new French ads may offer: "It's red. It smells like berry and chocolate. It tastes like that too." That'll sell more wine!

Is this crazy? Or am I just too unconcerned about potential alcohol abusers who might read something about a 100 year old winemaking family and choose to drink heavily?

Review of the Wine Media: The Pinot Report

This is the 7th in a series of reviews of the Wine Media

THE PINOT REPORT

I'm unaware of any magazine or newsletter that deals specifically with Cabernet or Chardonnay or Merlot. It's not that these varietals are not popular, it's that they don't create the kind of passion among wine lovers like Pinot Noir can. The search for great Pinot Noir, be it aimed at Burgundy, California, Oregon or elsewhere has consumed the time and patience of many. So it shouldn't surprise anyone that The Pinot Report would eventually come into existence. It's here to help in the search for that elusive experience that is great Pinot!

The Pinot Report is only a few years old. It is published out of Sonoma, California by Greg Walter, former President of the Wine Spectator Magazine, writer and publishing consultant. Published monthly, the Pinot Report is devoted to Pinots from America's West Coast. Walter describes his newsletter this way:

The Pinot Report is more than just another wine-review newsletter. My fascination with great Pinot Noir is as much about the people involved in making the wine, the wine regions and the foods that match well at the table—in short, the lifestyle surrounding the wines."

The Pinot Report covers a lot of ground. In each issue you'll find news, interviews, recipes and tasting notes all concerned with Pinot Noir. Walter is good at digging up information and his contacts in the industry allow him to get his hands on the best Pinots out there. This latter quality really is important when it comes to Pinot because oftentimes the best examples of the varietal are hard to come by.

Each issue usually includes reviews of about 50 wines. Walter tastes blind and uses the 100 Point scale to rate as well as giving detailed description of each wine reviewed. I like his reviews for their descriptive qualities. He is straightforward with these reviews, isn't stingy with good ratings, but clearly isn't giving out 90 point and higher scores willy nilly. Here is an example of one review:

Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Block 25 2002
Deep ruby purple color; closed, spicy oak aromas, some earth and forest floor on nose; big, rich, intense, lots of reduced black cherry fruit, intense spice and forest floor, moderate tannin, sweet oak, good structure and balance, long finish. WOW! This Pinot is intense, but also balanced and layered with complexity. Needs a bunch of time. 145 cases made. $48. Score: 93

Listed at the end of the review section is a list of wineries whose wines were reviewed with their telephone and web address. This is an extraordinarily useful bit of information this rarely delivered by the mainstream wine magazines.

One of the jobs of a publication like this is that it should let those so devoted to the varietal that they would subscribe to it to live vicariously through the publisher. Walter does this for us. In a recent issue he gave a full hearing to the "Pinot on the River" festival that took place in Russian River Valley. It was a spectacularly good report that took readers though the events of the festival day by day, winery by winery.

The publication can be delivered in print or via email in a pdf format. Getting it via email means paying less. I prefer this method simply because it's so easy to store each issue and refer back to them.

The Pinot Report is not cheap. E-mail subscriptions will run you $75 annually. Print subscriptions are $125 annually.

The Pinot Report
http://www.pinotreport.com

"Direct Shipping is fine...just not in our state"

North Dakota is poised to become the 25th state that allows direct shipping of wine to its residents. However, local wholesalers are opposing the change in regulations.

While readers of Fermentations know I am a staunch proponent of direct sales and have on occasion laid into wholesalers for their false explanations why direct sales should not be allowed, I must admit I appreciate the wholesalers reaction to this particular bill. They are if nothing else honest.

According to Rob Hanson of Ed Phillips and Sons wholesaler, they   support the bill (allowing direct shipping) as it relates to sales outside of North Dakota, but not as it allows wineries to ship within the state.

No talk here of minors. No talk of the traditional three tier system and no talk of needing wholesalers to carryout the regulatory work of the state. It's pretty simple. We don't mind wineries shipping, as long as it's not into our state.

The story is here. 

Coming ruling on Direct Shipping of Wine: Implications

Many of us have waited a very long time for the direct shipping issue to come before the Supreme Court. Up to the point in December when the arguments were heard, most of the debate was over the constitutional issues and the effect of baring wineries from shipping direct. Little discussion was given to what would be the outcome of a ruling that found discriminatory anti-shipping laws unconstitutional.

The media, in its fashion, has really not investigated this question. Rather, in their reporting o this issue it has always been assumed that if these anti-shipping laws are struck down, wine will flow freely throughout the U.S.

This is not the case.

Essentially the wineries are arguing that a state can regulate the sale of alcohol nearly anyway it wants to, as long as the playing field is level for both in-state and out of state sellers. Their argument is that the Commerce Clause of the Constitution demands this. If this is correct, what are its implications. 

Best case scenario is that states would no longer bar shipment from out of state wineries. A California winery shipping to a New York resident would be legal, just as it is legal now for a New York winery to ship to a New York resident. Perhaps their would be a permit fee involved, and all wineries would have to pay the state taxes. But the door would be open.

The bad scenario is states would react to the ruling by barring ALL direct shipments to state residents. This would hurt in-state wineries. The important point here though is that a "positive ruling" could lead to negative results for all parties involved....accept the wholesalers, who under this scenario would have complete control of alcohol distribution in a state that chooses to shut down all direct shipping. There is no doubt that even in states where it is now legal to ship direct, the wholesalers will lobby their legislatures to change the rules and make all direct shipping illegal.

But there are other potential consequences. If it is illegal for a state to discriminate and only allow certain wineries to ship direct, how would this affect those states that currently allow direct shipping only with other states that do the same...the so-called "reciprocity" states. Aren't these states discriminating? In fact, this very point came up during the Supreme Court arguments. It is no stretch at all to interpret a ruling saying that a fair playing field is necessary to also mean that those 26 states that now have reciprocity agreements allowing direct shipping are unconstitutionally discriminating against states that are not part of the reciprocity framework. You can bet that if the wineries win in the Supreme Court there will be immediate lawsuits filed by the wholesalers challenging the constitutionality of reciprocity agreements.

And what about wholesalers? Most states' laws demand that a wholesaler must be licensed in a state to sell wine to retailers and restaurateurs in that state. Yet, it is conceivable that a Supreme Court ruling outlawing discriminatory anti-shipping laws could be interpreted in a way that suggests the laws governing wholesalers is also unconstitutional. States are in affect saying that a New York Wholesaler can sell wine to a retailer or restaurant in New York, but a Pennsylvania wholesaler cannot do this. There has been a great deal of discussion on this topic. In fact, this implication was, again, brought up during the Supreme Court arguments. This possibility strikes fear into the heart of many wholesalers.

Finally, what of wineries being able to sell direct to retailers and restaurants in another state, bypassing the wholesaler completely. Another possibility that keeps the wholesalers up at night, this too has been discussed as an implication of the Supreme Court's coming ruling.

The Supreme Court will rule on the wine issue sometime between now and June. Then another round of lawsuits surely begins.

Same Wine Debate, Different Venue

She walked into the lion's den today and came out looking pretty good.

Copia in Napa, California played host today to a debate over the direct shipping issue. NPR's "Justice Talking" show set up shop at Copia and hosted the debate between Kathleen Sullivan of the Stanford Law School and one of the attorneys who argued before the Supreme Court on behalf of the wineries, and Nida Samona, Chairperson of the Michigan Liquor Control Commission.

There were a number vintners and wine business types in the audience. I don't think Ms. Samona had a single friend in the house. Yet, it must be said she carried off the wholesalers' and states' position very forcefully and with conviction. This was not an easy task.

She was consistent in her argument, noting over and over that the states simply have no way of regulating businesses that fall outside their jurisdictions, making it impossible to assure they don't thwart Michigan's alcohol laws. There was a great deal of discussion about just how Michigan insures its wineries don't ship wine to minors although these wineries have the right to ship direct. Simona didn't suggest that there is anything they can do to stop this, but because they are licensed by the state, Michigan can punish its wineries if it's found they are shipping illegally to minors. This is something they can't do with out of state wineries she argued. Of course, she is wrong about this. States are able to enlist the aid of the federal government to punish offenders is they choose. Her response was while the feds can do this, they don't have the time.

Sullivan was the hero. She defended small wineries, explaining that most wholesalers have no desire to represent the small wineries that depend on direct sales to make a living. She also made the point over and over that what Michigan and New York are doing in not allowing California wineries to ship to their states is discrimination, pure and simple and unconstitutional.

What was not discussed, unfortunately, were the merits of the case brought before the Supreme Court. This was disappointing. The debate that was discussed today has been carried out for almost a decade now. It has been heard over and over. Nothing new was discussed. This is a shame for Sullivan. Her element is constitutional law. Had the discussion taken on the constitutional issues at stake, she would have had complete command of the discussion.

There was also very little discussion of the implications of a ruling by the Supreme Court that these laws are unconstitutional. What will happen if discriminatory laws are struck down. This is really the most important issue before us right now.

Wine Gossip

Windsor Vineyards located in Sonoma County, California but owned by Fosters of Australia and a producer of primarily private label wines, made its mark (hopefully) with the nation's most elite powerbrokers at yesterday's Inaugural Lunch. Described by the New York Times as "the most exclusive of all the inaugural events", the lunch hosts presidents, bald political strategists from Texas, Supreme Court Justices (did they like the wine enough to....), and congresspeople.

But back to the wine gossip...

  The power brokers were presented with "scalloped crab and lobster, with tiny corn muffins, served with a Windsor 2004 Sauvignon blanc"...and "roasted Missouri quail with braised root vegetables and chestnuts...served with a carrot and parsnip purée and with Windsor Vineyards 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon."

Go into tasting rooms across the country and here or there you will see little white menus framed and displayed. They are from dinners at the White House at which the winery's products were served. Windsor will have this menu up in their offices pretty soon.

More Tokay, Please!

In 1995 Australian wineries exported 1.6 million cases of wine to the United States. In 2004 they exported 20 million cases. Today they are the 2nd largest exported to the U.S.

The Australia Harvest Day tasting in San Francisco yesterday reminds one that the variety of wines being produced in Australia is enormous. It's not just Shiraz and Yellowtail.

The tasting was people mainly by importers showcasing their book of various producers. There were also a number of producers holding fast behind tables with bottles in hand. By the time we got their, the crew of eager import reps and producers had that "deer in the headlight" look about them after having poured, talked and poured some more for more than 8 hours as the press, trade and consumers took their turns swirling and sipping.

The variety of wines being exported to the U.S. by the Australians goes beyond varietals to stylistic differences. This was pleasing. Too often you get the impression the Aussies are dedicated to the big-fat-luscious-fruitBOMB style of winemaking that comes in for too much criticism from snobs and people like me. I tasted chardonnays with wonderful balance, striking acidity and that citrus edge that leans on you before the fruit emerges. I tasted cabs that displayed not merely hedonistic gobs of galloping blackberry essence, but rather with deep but restrained fruit that hosted hints of herb and anise...a nice combination. And I tasted Rieslings that delivered that bone dry character and notes of petrol that I look for in that varietal.

Most impressive, in my mind, were the muscat and tokays. These sweet, spirit inspired wines might be the best value coming out of the continent. Chambers and Campbells make the best known versions. Susie Campbell was showing off her family's $17 Rutherglen NV Tokay that was really stunning.

The Australians may just eat our (meaning everyone else's) lunch in the wine world. The French are beside themselves worrying about their landing and subsequent attack on the continent. The Brits have practically agreed to a national takeover of their wine market by the Aussies. And the Americans...well...20 million cases!!

Can Greeks Turn Us Into a Nation of Wine drinkers?

We don't live in a "wine drinking nation".

Based on a poll they conducted in December 2004, Harris Interactive concludes: "Most Americans who buy wine do not do it very often and do not spend very much per bottle."

I guess this isn't really news, but it does serve to remind us that the vast bulk of wines consumed in America are not the wines that get enthusiasts all excited.

To quote again from the analysis of the poll:

"Fully 73 percent of wine purchasers say that they, or people in their household, only buy a bottle of wine once a month or less and, in most cases, the wine costs less than $15 a bottle, with fully 31 percent saying that the last bottle of wine bought cost under $10. Only 36 of wine purchasers have ever bought a more expensive bottle of wine costing $30 or more."

Of course, one thing these poll results scream out is the potential for a significant increase in market share that could come wine's way. Recent reports suggest the wine market is expanding. Combine this apparent willingness of more Americans to drink wine with an expanding economy and you have good times in the wine business. My reading of the market suggests that the 27-40 year olds are the group that will push this move.

The poll also gave some inkling that Americans would be willing to indulge in wines from countries not often associated with the idea of "wine country". Pollsters asked first if respondents ever bought or drunk certain countries' wines then asked if they would "consider buying it."

The result:

OF AMERICAN WINE DRINKERS
-Australia - 32% buy....52% would consider buying
-Germany - 23% buy....48% would consider buying
-Chile - 16% buy...36% would consider buying
-New Zealand - 10%...41% would consider buying
-Argentina - 9%...35% would consider buying
-South Africa - 6% buy...29% would consider buying
-Greece - 5% buy...36% would consider buying

Harris suggests these findings are good news for lesser known wine regions. And I can see what they mean, particularly where Greece and New Zealand are concerned. Of course the wild card here is marketing. How do you get someone to try buy a Greek wine without it being $4 or without first pumping ouzo down the buyer's throat? I have some ideas on that question and in fact I'd bet with about $1,500,000 you could take the Greek's 5% share and move it to somewhere in the neighborhood of 10% who had bought it. What you need first though is good $7 wine, good distribution and a good PR Firm.

If They are Down Under, Are We "Up Over"

It's Australia Wine Day in San Francisco. I'm headed to SF to do business then taste "over 300 wines".

It has been a while since I've undertaken a comprehensive look at Australian Wines. I'm not that interested in the mass imported brands. I'm hoping to get a look at some of the smaller producers, especially those producing Riesling.

My introduction to the high end AU wines came in 2000 when I when I was doing the marketing for Winebid.com. Grateful Palate, a great importer specializing in Australian wines, sent our auction house a palate of what he thought were the best of the best from that continent: Henry's Drive, Duck Muck, E&E Black Pepper, Charles Melton, Clarendon Hills, d'Arenberg, Greenock Creek. We had a ton of it.

At this time, the best Australian wines were still flying under the radar in the U.S. Only the most fanatical collectors and New World fanciers had their eye on these wines. Then Robert Parker did something. He reviewed the 1998 Australian wines and started handing out 98s, 97s, 96s, 95s. All over the place.

It was a stark demonstration of his power and influence as a critic. The bids on these wines sky rocketed, some up to $400+ a bottle. But nearly all the well-reviewed wines doubled their bids in a day and kept climbing. It was also an important milestone for Australia's best wines. They had a coming out party.

You can find information on the Australia Tasting in San Francisco HERE.

If anything of real interest emerges, I'll post it here.

Gallo: Scary Smart is What They Are

Corie Brown of the Los Angeles Times has written what must be the most intriguing and thought provoking article on wine marketing to appear in a daily newspaper in years. I've read it three times today.

The article concerns the Gallo strategy of creating new brands in France and Italy, how they produce wines for an "Americanized" palate, and the research that gets them to the what are essentially, pretty, bland, wines for wine chuggers.

The dismissiveness that top Gallo executives have for the French and Italian wine industries is pretty shocking.

Corie writes:

"European winemakers have lost touch with the American consumer, says Gallo: "Their price points are too high and the explanations of their wines are far too complex." The enormous range of smells and flavors simply overwhelms and turns off most Americans, he says."

"The enormous range of smells and flavors simply overwhelms and turns off most Americans"??
What in the world does that mean? I think that Gallo knows something that all of us knew for sometime. When it comes to selling a $7 bottle of wine...keep it simple stupid. Simple flavors, simple wine.

My favorite part of the article, after the explanations of the market research Gallo conducts is this passage:

" Is Gallo "dumbing down" French and Italian wines to make them palatable to Middle America? I ask.  "Why shouldn't we?" responds Gerry Glasgow, Gallo's head of marketing for 23 years. "If we can make wine more appealing by removing the things that some people find objectionable (acids and tannins ) then that's what needs to be done."  Gallo interrupts, advising Glasgow to sound more respectful of consumers."

Brown has written a stellar article. It's a must read that raises many interesting questions. Of course, it also reminds those of us who really do like wine that Gallo should be completely ignored if you are looking for wines of any substance.

Am I Just Paranoid?

Ok...So I have a suspicious mind. Sometimes I see links that aren't there. Sometimes I extrapolate when I needn't. So, as you read this post keep that in mind. Also, ask yourself, does this post have anything to do with "Fermentations" mission of writing about wine, wine marketing, wine PR and the wine industry.

In an opinion piece in today's San Francisco Chronicle, Michele Simon, a public health attorney and director of the "Center for Informed Food Choices", writes a piece that bemoans the fact that the new U.S. Dietary Guidelines talk a lot about exercise and nutrition, but doesn't say much about what specific foods should be avoided. That's fine.

But in her third paragraph she tosses this little nugget, yet never goes back to it or clarifies what she means:
 
"Emphasizing weight loss conveniently puts the onus for dietary change on the individual and avoids talk of reining in the food industry's multibillion-dollar marketing budget for unhealthy foods."

What does that mean? What does that imply? Am I paranoid of lawyers? Do I see a new lawsuit driven cause being considered that probably isn't there? If the veiled suggestion in this statement is considered rational by some, how would the following statement not seem rational:

"Emphasizing moderation conveniently puts the onus for staying healthy on the individual and avoids talk of reining in the alcohol iindustry's multi-billion dollar marketing budget for dangerous products."

The Direct Shipping Debate Continues: Live

The Direct Shipping issue will be taken up again this Sunday. NPR's "Justice Talking" radio show will be taped at Copia in Napa. Kathleen Sullivan of the Stanford Law School and one of the advocates for small wineries and consumers who argued the case in front of the Supreme Court will be on hand to debate Nida Samona, Chairperson of the Michigan Liquor Control Commission.

I'm heading over to listen to what they have to say. Sullivan was brilliant during the interrogatory portion of the Supreme Court arguments. It will be interesting to see at what level Samona engages Sullivan. I can't imagine her command of the case law and constitutional issues at hand match Sullivan's.

Anyone interested in attending the taping at Copia can apply for free tickets here.

If you can't make it, but have a question to submit, you can go to this web site and do so.

Wines In the White House

Korbel Champagne Cellars has, once again, been chosen by the White House to provide the an Inaugural Cuvee for tomorrow's big swearing in event and the parties that follow. It's not the first time Korbel nailed this honor. In fact, it's the sixth consecutive inauguration that Korbel has delivered the suds.

The history of wine in the white house is actually pretty fascinating. It doesn't begin and end with Thomas Jefferson's famous taste for wine.

  -Kennedy favored Bordeaux at official events
-Johnson started the tradition of only serving American-made wines 
-Nixon, though personally loved Petrus, stuck with California wines mainly 
-Ford brought a few Michigan wines into the mix
-Carter, though banning hard liquor from the White House, did serve wine -Reagan Served California wines

Dick Rosano wrote a brilliant piece about the history of wine and the White House and the Clintons' decision to move away from French cuisine to American Regional Cuisine.

More Wine Blogs On The Radar

A wine blog update: I came across two new (to me) wine blogs, both of which I enjoyed discovering.

Vivi's Wine Journal is the product of a couple who's love of wine is leading them to a career in the wine business to creating a wine blog. Their entries are personal and enjoyable. Check out Vivi's Wine Journal

Wine Wine Wine is the product of an "under 30" wine enthusiast who boldly states "Wine Wine Wine" was "created to inform those who are fed up with boring or inaccessible wine writing." While I don't agree with his assessment of the wine media, I do like the boldness of the statement. I'll be watching and reading.

Who Wants Seconds? Me!

Time permitting I like to cruise the blogs that keep me interested. More than many wine blogs hold my interest, as well as some biz blogs and political blogs. The real fun is when you come across something new that clearly has talent behind it.

Moira just launched WhoWantsSeconds,a food blog that portends to deliver some really stunning photography, as well as some inspirational ideas for filling your tummy. You never know if a blogger is going to be able to keep up their production and give us daily morsels. Here's hoping Moira does just that.

Sideways Marketing

Over at Spittoon, Andy makes note of the fact that the movie Sideways isn't just inspiring awards but also some marketing angles, particularly a map of the Santa Barbara wine country through the Sideways lens.

Well, this must only be the beginning. Over at Winebid.com, the online auction house, they are marketing a selection of wines that have were featured in one way or another in the movie. Not just the Santa Barbara Pinots, but also the Bordeaux, Italian and Cabs that had cameos in the film.

Winebid.com writes:
  "At WineBid.com we're offering 1961 Cheval Blanc, 1988 Sassicaia, 1995 Opus and many of the other extraordinary wines that played supporting roles in the film. Also included are other fine wines from the producers mentioned in the film."

Among the "Sideways Wines" you can bid on:
-2002 Andrew Murray "Gainey Vineyard Syrah ($25)
-2003 Byron "Santa Maria Valley" Pinot Noir ($20)
-1961 Chevel Blanc ($750)
-1961 Domaine De La Romanee-Conti La Tache ($700)
-1988 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia ($200) 

Study Confirms....the obvious?

So, according to a study, consumers can't tell the difference between wines closed with screwcaps or natural cork. Apparently, consumers blinding tasted the same wine, but with different closures. No difference.

Well, isn't that the point those using screwcaps are making? Isn't their use of screwcaps considered acceptable because the screwcap doesn't affect the wine?

I wonder if any of the wines the consumers in this study sampled were corked? I don't think so. If any were, consumers would surely have tasted a difference.

More Fun with Stats: CA Zinfandel

So I'm still having fun with statistics. Admit it. Looking at graphs like this is a bit like looking at a wreck on the side of the road. You know the curiosity you feel is a bit morbid because there is a lot more behind what you are seeing than just the sensationalism of it....still, it's hard to stop staring.

This time it's California Zinfandel. I'd always had a preference for Russian River Valley Zins over Dry Creek. Dry Creek is always a bit warmer than most of the Russian River Valley. Maybe that has something to do with it. Also, I'd bet there are far more old vine Zin Vineyards in Russian River than Dry Creek.

   WINE SPECTATOR RATINGS OF ZINFANDELS FROM THE
1992-2002 VINTAGES (BY NUMBER REVIEWS, PERCENT
RECEIVING 90 POINTS OR MORE AND PERCENT RECEIVING
79 POINTS OR LESS)

The Wine Spectator seems to agree with my own assessment and
by a pretty wide margin too. In fact the low amount of 90 points or higher scores for Dry Creek Valley actually surprises me.

Again, we need to be reminded that this is every bit as much a tale of the Wine Spectator's palate as it is a tale of the Zinfandel. This is really just curiosity stuff. Although there are assumptions we can make based on these stats, the real hard conclusions we can draw might only be about the development of various appellations as zinfandel homelands.

The Hell That is Wine Jargon

I'm guilty of it...though I hope less today than in the past. I'm talking about using jargon when writing about wine.

The wine industry, particularly its marketers, get away with murder by using certain words and phrases that, due partly to the marketers' own over use and shoddy thought processes spurred by laziness, result in these phrases being meaningless or uncomfortably inaccurate.

A selection of those words and phrases that have passed into near-meaninglessness:

   Terroir:
To often incorrectly used to suggest a taste in the wine. It is a term too often used to suggest the wine in question is of high quality. The word should be used to describe the consistent environmental factors that influence the character of the grapes in a very well defined geographic area.

Complex:
When used in wine descriptions does "complex" mean the wine is difficult to understand? Does it mean you can't lay your nose on the aromas coming out of the glass? I think too often this is exactly what it means. It's a fall back description of a wine when wielded I the hands of someone who needs to get words down.

"Integrated Alcohol" or some variation thereof:
It is often claimed on wine description provided by the wine's producer that "though the wine's alcohol is 16.0%, it integrates well with the sumptuous fruit." Really, these phrases are most often used as an excuse for the wine having too much alcohol.

"We respect the Fruit":
Often found written on a back label. Used to suggest...what? That the grapes are addressed as "sir" or "Madam" just before being cut off the vine? Too often a throw away phrase used to suggest the winery is all about the grapes and the vineyard, but they can't come up with specifics to demonstrate who this is actually the case.

Rare:
"This rare combination", "It's rare for a winery like ours...", "A rare wine that delivers..." Very little is actually rare in the world of wine. A bottle with Thomas Jefferson's initials would be "rare". A six liter bottle of 1945 Latour would be "rare". The word is too often used to suggest the wine is special in some way it really isn't.

The Spectator, Burgundy & Statistics

A couple posts ago I speculated about wine ratings, the Wine Spectator and Pinot Noir. If you take a look at it you'll see that according to the Wine Spectator, Pinot Noirs from some appellations score more in the 90 point or above range than others.

Since posting that I've received a number of emails speculating on why burgundies from the 1998 to 2002 vintages had so many more wines that got 79 points or less than any other region. I suspected it was vintage related. I seem to have been correct.

If you look at five different Burgundy vintages, 1987 to 1991 for example, you find the following:

   1608 Wines Reviewed 32% with 90 or Above scores 11% with 79 or below scores.

This is significantly better than the 20% with 90+ scores and 22% with 79 points or less scores I got looking at the 1998 to 2002 vintages. The reason is, simply, that there were better vintages inside 1987-1991 than in 1998-2002. Using averages, the Wine Spectator's average vintage rank for 1998 -2002 (taking into account the range they give for the 2001 and 2002 vintages) is 87.2 points. The average rank of the 1987-1991 vintages is 89.8.

Basically, The vintages I used to compare Wine Spectator scores in my earlier posting skewed things against Burgundy.

If you look at the Spectator's ratings for Burgundies for many more vintages, you get something interesting.  From the 1987 to 2002 Burgundy vintages, 23% of the wines rated were given 90 points or more while 20% were given 79 points or less.

But just for fun, what happens if you look at  Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from this same 1987-2000 period. 23% get 90 point or more and only 4% get 79 points or less. 
What about Oregon? In the 1987 to 2002 vintages, the Wine Spectator gives 23% of Oregon wines 90 points or above and 10% 79 points or less.

Bottom line, according to the Wine Spectator's palates modern Red Burgundies "miss the mark" far more often than most other Pinot appellations.

  But still, this comparison really isn't fair is it. I mean, I am looking at Burgundy as a whole, rather than looking at it appellation by appellation the way I did with California's appellations.

  I the future I want to look at more comparisons of this type, perhaps just for kicks and giggles. And perhaps by the time I'm finished I'll figure out if my statistics are telling stories about the Wine Spectator or the wines under consideration.

It's Too Easy To Be Callous

It really is too easy to be callous.

A couple days ago I posted, "Consolidation, who cares?", in which I made the point that even though more and more wineries are being snapped up by larger drink companies, we wine lovers would never have a problem finding small, quality oriented wines from artisan producers. There are just so many good ones.

While this is true, it's a point that pales in comparison to the point made by a headline from the Los Angeles times: "Constellation Brands to Eliminate 300 Jobs".

These are all Mondavi-related jobs. Jobs held by mothers and fathers, wage earners supporting families. Yet, we can still get our fine Pinot elsewhere.
   
Consolidation...a lot of people care.