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Wine Blog Breaking New Ground

Dr. Vino is one of my favorite wine bloggers. His posts are diverse and his insights crisp. His latest project is pretty brilliant.

Dr. Vino has launched The Real Wine World, a project in which he will follow the exploits of three wine professionals for a 12 month period. This should open some eyes for those interested in getting into the wine business.

He'll be reporting on the day to day activities of an Argentina winemaker, an Italian wine importer and a New York retailer.
Drvino1  Drvino2  Drvino3

Dr. Vino's Project reminds me of "A Very Good Year", a new book by Mike Weiss that follows a bottle of Ferrari-Carano wine from vineyard to the market place.

I wonder if wine is set to take off as a cultural phenomenon? With Sideways the movie as the starting point and new TV shows on wine coming out way, more  wine magazines coming that address various niches in the market, it just may happen.

Cute Pigs, Cat Pee, Drunk Frogs and the mind of the wine consumer

"I don't have time to learn about wine. But I like wine, so I buy something that clicks with me, that evokes a feeling or a memory, then I've already got a good connection with it before I even open it."
Label
Yes, this comes from that growing legion of wine drinkers who are buying the label rather than the juice inside. It's really hard to argue with attitude, particularly as it exists among those who like wine, but don't care about wine...most people.
Label1
But it's also this attitude that is pushing wine marketers who want to play in the commodity market to create ever more fanciful, colorful and ultimately animal-laden labels. A nod here must to to Yellow Tail, that phenomenon out of Australia. That wine has risen to the top of the wine world and everyone seems to be shooting at it.
Label2
And why not, we've always known that consumers buy the label at least as often as they buy the product. To many marketers this reality drives their entire project, with product being a second thought. Then there are others (German wineries, for example) who care far more for the product than the packaging.
Label3
This very good story from Cox News Service reporter Sandra Eckstein looks at the growing trend of those who just by wine labels instead of the wine inside.
Label4
The labels you see in this post are actually some of my favorites. Some of them grace very good wine, others just average wine.

We do a good amount of packaging at Wark Communications. I can tell you first hand that we've had a number of requests for "different" packaging from clients of late. Yet, these request still do not outnumber clients requesting "evocative" or "elegant" or "artistic" designs. There is still the perception among many in the wine industry that the "animal labels" and "different labels" deliver a sense of low end wine.

The Amazing Impact of Only 9% Vines

NapaI've been spending a lot of time in Napa Valley and thinking about Napa Valley these days due to a collection of clients we are working with at Wark Communications who reside in that Valley over the hill.

In focusing on Napa Valley of late I've bumped up  against one of those issues of "perception vs. reality." As you drive through Napa it's easy to get the impression that vineyards are planted everywhere and that the region is simply a collection of vines, broken up on occassion by a home or  small town.

In reality only 9% of Napa County is planted to vines. A mere NINE PERCENT. That's a lot less than most people familiar with America's most famous wine region would think. But of late, we've learned a lot more about the impact of Napa Valley winemaking.

According to a study completed concerning the impact of Napa Valley's wine industry on the economy we find out that:

-Napa Valley only produces 4% of the State's wine by volume
-At $2.3 Billion, revenue from the sales of Napa Valley wines represents 27% of the State's revenue from wine sales.
-Wine Industry Jobs account for half of all Napa County employment
-$1.4 Billion in wages are generated by the Napa wine industry
-$800 Million in State taxes are generated from Napa wines.

Clearly the premium wine drinkers are willing to pay for Napa Valley wines are refleted in these numbers. But it's still the mere NINE PERCENT of Napa County land being taken up by vines that stands out to me. It would be fascinating to compare this with other CA wine regions as well as prominent wine regions in other parts of the world.

A Tale of CA Politics, Wine Politics and the Law

If, as the Supreme Court said, a state has the right to regulate the sale of alcohol nearly any way it wants as long as in-state and out-of-state wineries are on equal footing, does this also mean that the same applies to wine retailers?

California's answer to this question appears to be "NO", a response that could lead to more lawsuits dealing in discrimination just as the recent Supreme Court case did.

THE NEW CA WINE SHIPPING LAW

Currently California Senate Bill 118 is moving through committees and toward the Governor's desk. SB118 would essentially allow any winery in any state to ship up to 24 cases a year to a California resident. It's a bill that basically removes the "reciprocity" plan that had governed direct sales of wine into California for many years. Under reciprocity, a state's wineries or retailers could ship into California so long as it allowed California's wineries and retailers to ship to its residents.

The Supreme Court had something to say about these reciprocity laws. Writing for the majority in Granholm V. Heald, Justice Kennedy cited reciprocity laws as "low-level trade war among the states.  The perceived necessity for reciprocal sales privileges risks generating the trade rivalries and animosities, the alliances, and exclusivity, that the Constitution and, in particular the Commerce Clause, were designed to avoid."

Basically, Kennedy said reciprocity is unconstitutional. So California went about fixing this situation.

The new bill, authored by CA Senator Wes Chesbro, allows any state's wineries to ship to California resident's as long as they get a permit, don't ship more than 24 cases per year to a single person, as well as follow other basic requirements.

NO SHIPPING TO CA FOR MOST OUT OF STATE RETAILERS
What's really interesting, and short-sighted in this writers opinion, is that SB118 does not speak to out of state retailers' rights to ship to California residents. In the bill's original form retailers in all states would have been allowed to ship to California residents under the same guidelines as wineries. But after all the stake holders got together to talk about what should be done, and after the bill was amended in committee, the retailer privilege was largely stripped out.  In the current version of the bill, only retailers in those states that were formerly "reciprocal states" under California law (12 of them) will still have the right to ship into California. Why was this change to the bill made?

The only group that was opposed to retailers being able to ship into California were the big California wholesalers.

WHOLESALERS PUT THEIR FOOT DOWN...ON RETAILERS
The wholesalers objected to the competition on slippery slope grounds. The Santa Rosa Press Democrat reported that Don Robbins, General Council for Young's Market, one of California's largest wholesalers of wine, said the bill "would change the balance of the game. If it's good for retailers then it's good for wholesalers and if that's the case, then everyone is in business everywhere."

I spoke with officials at the California Wine Institute, Family Winemakers of California, California Association of Winegrape Growers, as well as members of Senator Chesbro's staff. Interestingly, when I asked why retailer privileges had been stripped from the bill, they all said the same thing...using nearly the very same words:

SB 118 brings California into compliance with the meaning of Granholm Vs. Heald. The Attorney General of California determined that the Supreme Court case only dealt with wineries so it was necessary only to deal with wineries in this legislation.

NARROW READING OF SUPREME COURT DECISION HELPS
EXCLUDE OUT OF STATE RETAILERS

This seems an extraordinarily narrow reading of the recent Supreme Court case. Those supporting this reading make note that the term "retailer" was never mentioned in the Supreme Court opinion. And that's true. But the principle behind the opinion seems clearly to apply not merely to wineries but to alcohol regulation in general. One could easily read the Granholm V. Heald decision and determine that it applied to alcohol regulation in general, rather than simply wine. The choice not to open California up to all retailers under the SB118 scheme seems to be a purely political choice rather than a legal decision

RETAILERS GETTING THEIR COMEUPPANCE?
Retailers have never played any significant role in trying to overturn anti-direct shipping legislation in America. In addition, not one retailer or retailer organization filed an amicus brief in the Supreme Court case. The fact is, there is a division among America's wine retailers when it comes to direct shipping. Some are all for it, wanting to cultivate customers and markets outside their geographic area. Other retailer fear the competition that direct shipping will result in. The upshot is that there has never been a consistent position among wine retailers on direct shipping like the wineries and wholesalers have maintained. You can see how it would be psychologically difficult for wineries to carry the water for retailers when the retailers never bellied up to the bar in the run-up to the Supreme Court case. In the case of SB118, California wineries decided they had no obligation to push for retailers to be included in the opening up of the State's direct shipping laws.

CA's OPEN ARMS A LITTLE LESS OPEN NOW
That said, the new direct shipping legislation will represent a change in California policy as to who the state wants shipping to California residents. Under old reciprocity agreements, California was happy to have all wineries and all retailers in any state ship to California residents as long as a reciprocity agreement was in place. There was no difference seen between an out of state winery and an out of state retailer. They were both equally encouraged to ship to California residents as long as their state had  a reciprocity agreement. Under SB118, only wineries in other states are now welcomed with open arms.

Senator Wes Chesbro, the author of SB118, along with California Attorney General Bill Lockyer believe that the Supreme Court decision clearly makes reciprocity agreements unconstitutional due to the way they discriminate against states that do not have reciprocity agreements. This is why they are changing California's laws concerning direct shipping. Yet, the reciprocity scheme remains in place when it comes to retailers. If a state passes a new "reciprocity" law, that state's retailers, according to California now and in the future, will be allowed to ship to California residents.

But I thought we had to change California law because reciprocity agreements were unconstitutional?

The New York wine shipping bill that just passed is in fact a "reciprocal" direct shipping bill. Will New York retailers be able to ship to California residents? The opinion of California's Attorney General is that the Supreme Court said reciprocity is unconstitutional.

IS CA INSTITUTING UNCONSTITUTIONAL PROVISIONS?
The attorney for the California Alcohol Beverage Control Department thinks so too. He recently said in an interview with Santa Rosa Press Democrat's Kevin McCallum concerning the constitutionality of SB118, "I think if we are challenged, it is my opinion that we would ultimately lose."

One must wonder how long it will take a wholesaler in California from filing suit to stop NY retailers from shipping into California on the grounds the State law permitting it is unconstitutional. For that matter, why wouldn't a retailer in a state that does not have reciprocal legislation in place not file suit against California claiming it's reciprocity statutes that now exist only for the purpose of governing which retailers can ship to California file suit. They could easily claim the law is unconstitutional based on Granholm vs. Heald.

But here is what I think is worst part of SB118, rather than the confusion it creates: as other states look to change their laws to adapt to the Supreme Court decision they will look to see what California has done, notice that most states have their retailers excluded from shipping wine to California and conclude that California retailers should be excluded from shipping into their states. In fact, it seems to this writer that this kind of discrimination put in place by California might easily convince other states to ban shipping all together. This is particularly possible in those states that do not possess much of a wine industry that would bring pressure to allow direct shipping.

A Step In the Right Direction

Here's a step in the right direction.

Jess Jackson, owner of Kendall Jackson and Jackson Family Estates and National Distributing have formed a new company that will focuse on distributing the bottlings of small wineries. Monument Fine Wines based in Maryland will serve the Washington D.C area. GM Elysa Kudo explains the new distributorship this way:

"We want to make sure they get deserved attention. With such large companies, a little mom-and-pop winery may not get its just due."

It's no surprise that Jess Jackson is involved. Jackson has been a champion of small wineries for years, contributing to organizations and causes that help promote small wineries with time and money.

America's Wine University Turns 125

Ucdavis
America's premier wine and grapegrowing institution of higher learning is celebrating its 125th anniversary paving the way for great wine. U.C Davis was mandated in 1880 to establish a program in enology and viticulture. More California winemakers have taken their education at Davis than anywhere else.

Davis was crucial to getting the California wine industry up and running after prohibition. What made them so important was their responsiveness to the industry. The Department of Enology and Viticulture has always worked very closely with the industry, keeping careful track of the issues confronting winemakers and grapegrowers and helping them face those problems.

The instructors at UC Davis have become some of the most important names in American wine history from Harold Olmo to Carole Meredith.

Here's a toast to one important wine institution.

Interview with a Michigan Wine Warrior

Joel_1As often happens, private citizens are foreced to come together and pool their resources in order to fight protect their rights, fight more powerful and well-funded entities and create change. This is the story of WINE CAM (Wine Consumers Across Michigan. Wine Cam was created in the wake of the Supreme Court decision determining state discrimination in the direct shipping of wine was unconstitutional. Joel Goldberg is one of the founders of WineCam. He agreed to talk to FERMENTATIONS and answer questions about the organization and the fight against wholesalers and legislators in Michigan who seek to strip from consumers all rights to receive wine shipped directly to them.


What would be the consequences of a ban on all direct shipping in Michigan?

From a consumer perspective, the situation would become just slightly more dismal than it's been. The prior Michigan law -- which the Supreme Court overturned in the Heald case -- allowed in-state wineries to direct-ship to customers, while banning shipments from out-of-state wineries. Since Michigan consumers were never able to legally order direct-ship wine from other states, the entire impact of a ban would fall on our purchases from Michigan wineries.

But for these wineries, the results would be devastating. Many Michigan wineries are small, relatively new family businesses that survive close to the margin. With limited commercial distribution, a major portion  of their sales come through their tasting rooms and direct shipments to in-state customers. Winemakers I've spoken with put their direct-ship percentages from 10 or 15%, all the way up to 100%. Take those sales away and force them to sell at sharp wholesale discounts through the three-tier system, and many of them could fold almost overnight.

This has an element of tragic irony. Michigan winemakers are just beginning to come into their own, as they discover what our climate and terroir do best. When I moved to Michigan 30 years ago, there wasn't one Michigan wine I found drinkable -- and I wasn't nearly as picky about the wines I dreank back then, either.

Today I can honestly say that the single best made-in-USA Gewurztraminer and several of the best USA bubblies I've tasted proudly proclaim Michigan origins. Riesling also thrives at a number of wineries. The folks in Lansing don't have a clue what their game-playing and political posturing would do to our burgeoning wine industry.

The big wine and beer wholesalers as well as pro-direct shipping advocates have separate bills awaiting consideration in the Legislature. What steps will the Legislature take in considering these bills and what kind of time table are we looking at?

Crystal ball gazing isn't my strong suit, but since you asked...

The bills will come up first in the House of Representatives, in front of the Regulatory Reform Committee. Eight of the nine committee members took money from the Wholesalers in last year's election. The handouts averaged around $4000 apiece, and it was the largest or second-largest campaign contribution for nearly all of them. Draw your own conclusions -- but we don't expect any miracles there.

The State Senate will likely be another another matter, because the Majority Leader has already gone on record favoring "reasonable flexibility" for consumers, and he has the clout to back it up. The primary legislative advocate for direct-ship is also in the Senate; her district includes Leelanau Peninsula wine country.

The timetable is still up in the air. But with the incredibly bad press that the Wholesalers' bill has been receiving, I'd say they're in no rush to try to muscle a ban though. We're probably looking at the fall, and the showdown will likely come in the Senate.

There's one wild card, though. Now that the Supreme Court has rendered justice in the Heald decision, the case goes back down the judicial food chain to the US District Court judge in Detroit who originally heard it several years back. In theory, he has the power to order a specific remedy -- i.e. level up or level down -- based on his reading of the Supreme Court decision.

It's unlikely that he'll choose to exercise that power; he'll more likely instruct Michigan to devise its own solution to conform with the Supreme Court ruling. But a judge-ordered solution is at least a remote possibility.

What information do you have on the problem of minors purchasing alcohol via the Internet?

What problem? is there a problem? When was the last time YOU heard about a real-world minor buying wine online, as opposed to beer at the corner store or swiping a bottle of vodka from Dad's liquor cabinet?

The Detroit Free Press put it well in their editorial slamming the Wholesalers' proposed shipping ban, "The legislation is being embraced under the guise of 'protecting the kids.' More like protecting the trough that regularly wines and dines state lawmakers and occasionally jets them to exotic locales."

The claim about underage buying has been discredited every time someone took a serious look at it. The Federal Trade Commission issued a report blasting it. During the Heald case, the Court of Appeals wouldn't even let the lawyer for the Wholesalers make the argument, saying they lacked any credible evidence. And the Supreme Court dismissed it completely, Justice Kennedy writing, "The States provide little evidence that purchase of wine over the Internet by minors is a problem..."

It's been discredited by everyone, that is, except politicians whose real goal is grasping at political cover to hide their real motives. Just a few days ago, Representative Chris Ward, our state's poster boy for bought-and-paid-for politicos, was at it again, telling the Michigan State News about the 19-year-old who would order "a big shipment of vodka" if his direct-ship wine ban doesn't pass.

It's hard to argue with logic like that.

What is WineCam doing to make direct shipping of wine a reality in Michigan?

That needs rephrasing, along the lines of "What is WineCAM ABLE to do..."  The odds we face in Michigan make David versus Goliath look like a pretty even match.

We're a bunch of consumers who came together as a group about a month ago. Only a couple of us have any experience with politics or government at all, and our bank account has -- well, let's just say it's not enough to stock anyone's wine cellar.

The folks we're up against are the biggest-spending, most savvy special interest group in the state. For perspective, during last year's election these guys threw more money around Lansing than the United Auto Workers, the Teachers Union, or the Chamber of Commerce. Something like 90% of our current state legislators shared in the jackpot.

And that's not to mention all the fundraisers they orchestrate for politicos at their headquarters, a block from the State Capitol, or the legislative leaders they jet to their conferences in Grand Cayman, all expenses paid, to participate in a "legislative panel discussion".

But, as they tirelessly point out when such things are mentioned, everything they do is perfectly legal under Michigan law (which raises an entirely different set of issues...)

Anyway, that's what we're facing. Now as to what we're DOING, we're taking a two-pronged, outside / inside approach.

On the outside, we're working hard to raise public and media awareness about both the issues and the politics of direct-ship. That means press releases, interviews, appearances at wine events, and maybe even a "media event" or two closer to the final vote.

The distributors' monopoly is most effective behind closed doors, where their money and favors can prove irresistibly persuasive. So to the extent that we can move the debate out of the Capitol backrooms and into the arena of public scrutiny, the better our chances will be. Neither their arguments nor their conduct is especially appealing when viewed in the daylight.

Some of the Michigan media have picked this up already, and are giving the issue good coverage. Just last week, both the Detroit Free Press and Lansing State Journal published strong pro-shipping editorials. Both papers blasted the Wholesalers and the politicians on their dole. The State Journal even told Chris Ward to give back all the Wholesalers' contributions if he wants people to actually believe his motives. But we need to keep the issue on the front burner.

The inside part of the strategy is more difficult, because it involves reaching a group of legislators who traditionally go along with whatever the Wholesalers ask.

We're going to produce a series of objective, accurate fact sheets for the legislators and their aides, and will be setting up a lot of meetings to discuss the issues involved. We want to make sure they know what's happening in other states, like Texas, Connecticut and New York. We can't outspend or outmuscle the distribution monopoly, but we're confident we can out-truth them.

Fortuntely, they may have overplayed their hand. We've already heard that some legislators feel they were "misled" about the issues in the shipping debate, and the legislative alternatives. Some of them resent the patently false scare tactics being used about things like underage drinking.

Last but not least, we're finding hundreds -- soon to be thousands -- of consumer supporters who are signing on at the WineCAM website and wine events around the state. We'll be asking these folks to contact their legislators, attend hearings in Lansing, write letters to their local papers, and recruit friends to the cause.

Several legislators told us that the strongest argument they could have to reject the shipping ban is the need to "vote the district" -- i.e. lots of their constituents back home are concerned about their vote on this issue. We're going to engage wine consumers across the state, in every legislative district, to help provide them with that argument -- especially as they spend more time in their home districts during the summer.

Is there anything those living outside Michigan can do to help WineCam in their efforts and help Direct Shipping legislation pass?

Does the phrase "please send money" come off as too crass?

Seriously, our most pressing need is for the bucks to convey our message. Right now, our work is being done by a group of volunteers, all of whom have day jobs. We urgently need to hire a Lansing lobbyist who can help to open some of the doors there and work with us on organization and strategy. We need to produce the informational packets for the legislators and their aides, and that should involve some PR folks. And it would be nice to be able to hand out a professionally-designed brochure at wine events, in place of the home-brewed (or is that home-vinified?) version we're currently using. We're not ashamed to accept contributions from outside the state -- more information is on the donation page at the WineCAM website.

Folks from elsewhere can do one other thing. Californians may not realize that Michigan is still in the midst of a major economic slump. Our legislators confront a mammoth budget deficit, cuts in education funding, and coping with the highest unemployment rate in the nation.

This may shock you and me, but in light of those other issues, studying the intricacies of the wine shipping debate doesn't rank all that highly on most legislators' priority lists.

And unfortunately, nearly all the "information" they received until now came from the other side of the debate. For example, most legislators start with no idea that twenty-some states already allow direct-ship. Or that the national trend is heading entirely in that direction, rather than the direction our state's Wholesalers are trying to lead them.

So another important thing that people elsewhere can do is help to turn a national spotlight on Michigan's conduct on the shipping issue, as one of the two states involved in the Supreme Court case.

Michigan legislators have spent so many years at the Wholesalers' trough that they need a reality check to realize that their behavior might seem backward-looking -- or out-of-step, or just plain ridiculous -- to much of the country. If the name "Chris Ward" became the punchline for a couple of Jon Stewart jokes, that could change a dozen votes overnight. These things DO matter in a state that prefers to fancy itself as trying to break free of its rust-belt image and mindset of the last century.

But Michigan consumers and Michigan winemakers need to carry the fight. Out-of-state support could be a double-edged sword California's wine industry, which has an obvious stake in our opening to direct-ship, appeared to be orchestrating anything behind-the-scenes.  But we welcome the support -- moral, financial and logistical -- of allies everywhere, along with whatever publicity they can draw to our legislative battle.

What about the just-introduced bill to allow limited direct shipping?

It's a major step in the right direction compared with the "Let's Kill Them All" approach of the Wholesalers' / Chris Ward bill. But from a consumer point of view, there are some serious flaws that reflect the lack of consumer input in its drafting.

To cite one example, the bill would prohibit the thousands of Michigan residents who annually visit wine country in other states from sending their own wine purchases home to themselves! So if I spent a couple of days in Dry Creek and put together two or three mixed cases, there would be no legal way to get them back to Michigan. That's both petty and strongly anti-consumer, and getting it right would involve no significant loss to our state.

Because of provisions like this, I can't support the limited shipping bill in its current form, even though it's clearly preferable to a total ban. But with some tweaking, it could become a law with which Michigan wine consumers could live happily.

What else is on the WineCAM agenda?

Right now, we need to focus all our energy on direct-ship. As a group, we've been so busy playing catch-up that we've never even talked about "What comes next?"

But there's an ongoing need for a voice to speak unabashedly on behalf of wine consumers in Michigan, and perhaps elsewhere. In the past, when issues with a major impact on consumer rights got decided, the only folks in the room were government officials and those "in the biz". That's a mistake.

I'd like to see WineCAM become an advocate for a range of consumer-oriented improvements in Michigan beverage regulations. For example, why shouldn't the Governor appoint at least one or two members of our Liquor Control Commission specifically to represent the interests of the consumer? Compared to many states, we have quite backward-looking regulations in areas like restaurant BYO and in-store tastings. These could stand re-examining.

Who knows -- in some future debate, we might even find ourselves on the same side of the street as the Wholesalers.

Joel Goldberg was born in Connecticut and moved to Michigan after college. He started his own non-wine-related Michigan retail business business ni 1985, yet always had an strong interest in wine. Joel was an early adopter of Internet wine resources using the Prodigy wine board to talk wine with others then migrating to the Compuserve wine discussion board and later to Robin Garr's Wine Lovers' Discussion Group. Joel co-founded MoCool (the Motown Co-operative Off-Line) for on-line wine fans in 1992. Its annual tasting weekends continue today as the world's longest-running gathering of its type.
He is Involved in various Michigan wine and tasting events, including Ann Arbor's WineFest charity auction.

Celebrating with "The Social Lubricant Club"

My wife and I attended a really beautiful wine event yesterday. We and a number of other "wine club" members spent the day treking through vineyards up in the Atlas Peak appellation where Astrale e Terra Winery have their vineyards. We were led by the owner and winemaker and learned a great deal about hillside grapegrowing and winemaking in a mountain appellation.

Astrale

Letter we dined under a tent in the Shadow of these hillside vineyards and overlooking hundreds of acres of pristine vineyards A nice breeze wafted through the tent where we enjoyed a fabulous luncheon at a long table where fabulous wine flowed.

But as lovely as this all was, it was not the stunning setting, the great wine and perfectly matched foods that made this a perfect example of what draws people to wine and finally captures them in a lifelong pursuit of its appreciation. In fact, it was our compatriots under that tent that really define the wine experience.

I sat across from Monique. Monique is full blooded Italian, born in Paris, raised in Cannes and a citizen of the United States for the past 40 years. She was a fun, boisterous woman for whom enjoyment of life and people had become something of an art. She still spoke a with a french accent and communicated with her eyes and smile. From her seat at the middle of the table she was able to share her joy with nearly half the people at this long table. She ate drank, toasted, talked, laughed, joked, shared and drew people into her world. She clearly felt she was among friends as she looked at the 30 or so others who shared this meal with her.

But the thing about Monique was this: She was really not very different from anyone else at the table.

This is what makes wine an avocation that is not so much about vintage, ratings, education and palates. This is what makes the avocation of wine about sharing and living life well.

I suspect that when those devoted to bowling, horticulture, music, archeology and stamp collecting get together there is a similar camaraderie that emerges, and a sense of sharing and instant closeness that reveals itself as the gathering gets going. But with wine, the drink nearly always becomes secondary at our gatherings. Those devoted to wine seem not to be celebrating wine when they gather together. The seem to be celebrating the effect of this social lubricant and the familiar ties it creates and generates.

New Yorkers To Get Wine Shipped Direct!

It looks official. The State of New York, after being told by the Supreme Court that their direct shipping laws were discriminatory and unconstitutional, will send a bill to the governor's desk that opens the State to direct shipping of wine to consumers.

Of course this is great news both for consumers and wineries. But it's also important for another reason.

New York's partner in the Supreme Court case was Michigan, where legislators will grapple with two bills, one shutting down all direct shipping of wine and another opening up Michigan to direct shipping. The New York solution will be influential up in Lansing as legislators look to see how New York chose to handle the Supreme Court ruling.

How To Kill A Wine Industry

This is the second time in just a few days I've seen wholesalers try to explain their attempts to destroy small wineries by saying "It's good for them".

In Louisiana the local liquor wholesaler association stuck a provision onto a bill concerning liquor retail outlets proximity to churches and schools. The provision states that Louisiana's wineries MUST only sell their wines through wholesalers. Its effect is that no longer could Louisiana's small wineries sell their wine directly to restaurants and retailers directly as they always have.

According to George Brown, director of the Beer Industry League of Louisiana, this legislation would protect Louisiana's wineries from out of state competition. Of course, it didn't occur to Mr. Brown, who is one of the most powerful lobbyists in the state, to ask any Louisiana wineries if they wanted this kind of protection. No one talked to the wineries or their association before dropping this little addition into the bill.

But now that it is about to get to the governor's desk, the Louisiana wineries have something to say. They are telling the Governor this legislation would essentially kill the wine industry in Louisiana.

Consider the case of Joe Cazedessus' small little winery. He makes roughly 1200 cases per year. Currently he sells 3/4 of his production directly to stores and restaurants. He sells them this wine at a wholesale price which is usually about 25% off his suggested retail price. But if he is forced now to sell this wine to a distributor first a couple things happen:

1. He must sell the wine to the wholesaler at 50% of suggested retail price
2. He loses all control over sales (who is more concerned with his brand, the owner or the wholesaler)

So Joe immediately drops 20% to 25% of his annual profit and he no longer has control of his brand.

But, Mr. Brown says this is good for Joe.

It's the same argument made by the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Association in the form of a poll question they recently ask in which they suggested that with direct shipping, Michigan wineries would be subjected to competition form "large, international corporations.": Is this good or bad," they asked. Of course, neither the poll takers or the organization that fronted for the wholesalers in contracting the poll could name any of these "large international corporations."

It's a sham. And it's a wholesale lie being pushed.

The wholesalers also argue that if they allow Louisiana wineries to sell directly to retailers and restaurateurs, then out of state wineries must be allowed to also, given the recent Supreme Court ruling that state alcohol laws cannot discriminate between in-state and out-of-state wineries. But that's a bogus claim too. The state could easily restrict wineries over a certain size from selling direct to retailers and restaurateurs and thereby protect the wholesalers and still let small wineries prosper.

But, the wholesalers, whether it's their national association (Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association) or state level associations like the "Beer League of Louisiana" have consistently shown they have no concern for small wineries, for minors or for free trade. Their only concern is for amassing profits and paying off politicians to do their bidding.

This particularly ugly episode in Louisiana, led by the particularly offensive George Brown, is just the latest example of the wholesale disregard for anyone or anything but power.

Shame on George Brown and shame on the Beer League of Louisiana, and shame on the governor of Louisiana if they sign the bill.

 

New Wine Magazines Coming

Wine Journalism seems to be on the rise.

Two new wine magazines will be finding their way to market in the next couple of months. Both are focusing on niche markets, rather than taking on the whole universe of wine. This is the way of the publishing world today and it has been this way for some time now: narrow the focus of your coverage and zero in on a specific group that will be more loyal...all the time building a nice demographic base for subscriber support.

CA WINE
Camag
CA Wine is headed up by veteran wine journalist Jim Gordon. Jim used to be the Senior Editor at Wine Spectator before a stint at Wine Country Living. Jim's forte has always been California wine. So, he may have found the perfect vehicle for his inclinations with CA WINE, a new magazine that will focus on California wine alone.

There has never been a magazine devoted specifically to California wine here in the states, which strike me as odd. Americans drink a larger percentage of CA wine than from any other country. Add to this the lifestyle possibilities associated with California and you have a lot of good content waiting to be explored.


WINE ADVENTURE

Wineadventure
Wine Adventure is another new wine publications that is taking on Women as it's focus; that is, the nexus between women and wine. The publishers correctly point out that the majority of wine is purchased by women, who have different perspectives on nearly everything than men do...and wine is no exception. Painting with the broadest possible brush, we can say that men tend to be trophy hunters when it comes to wine, while women tend to be "table setters". "Wine Adventure" will not review wines. Instead, the focus will be on education, travel and a more lifestyle approach to wine. Think "O" Meets "Wine Spectator."

There is also word that a new on-line wine site is in development that will bring together some of America's best wine journalists who will be writing exclusively for the site. It has been quite a while since the Internet has been the host to a serious wine writing/journalism site. The last one of any note was "Wine Today", a New York Times owned web site that was really very good, but probably cost the New York Times way too much money. When I get the word it's OK to talk about the intricacies of this new Internet Wine Writers site, I'll bring the details.

Publishing is an industry that rarely breaks new new ground. It's an industry that tends to follow the trends of the economy. If measures of the economy is telling us that people are cutting back their spending, you can expect publishers to emphasize "Value" and you see more "Do-It-Yourself" magazines. If the economy demonstrates that disposable income is up, you see more luxury oriented magazines. We've seen wine buying rise over the past year. We've seen more purchasing of higher priced wines. We've seen more wine drinking. The new magazines make sense.

Shit Wine, Great Wine, Average Wine: Call it What You Want in France

RightsIt appears that "Vin De Merde" is approved for consumption in France.

That's not fair is it. Let me rephrase.

It appears that "Vin de Merde" is approved for discussion in France.

This is the final outcome of a somewhat bizarre case that put on display not only French regional sensibilities about local wines but also the rather restrictive interpretation of Freedom of Speech that the land of Liberty employs.

In 2002 French courts fined "Lyon Mag" the equivalent of more than $300,000 as a penalty for libeling the Beaujolais producers. The actual offense?

Lyon Mag quoted François Mauss, head of the Grand Jury of European Tasters, who said that much of Beaujolais wine was "not proper wine" and that its producers were 'conscious of commercialising a "vin de merde."


Translation: Beaujolais winemakers are consciously producing Shit Wine.

Pretty harsh. But grounds for libel charges? A French appeals court didn't think so, overturning the libel judgments citing article 10 of the European Convention that the general public has the right to be given varied opinions on any subject.

This of course  does not settle the question about Beaujolais. However, it does suggest that a fair minded judicial system exists in France.

Anatomy of a Great Newspaper Wine Column

What's a good newspaper wine column look like?

It's a question that has had a lot of different types of answers over the years. The best newspaper wine columnists are few and far between. Once they arrive on the scene and are recognized for their talent, they tend to fair pretty well, jumping often into magazines, then perhaps organizing wine competitions, and always being asked to judge at them. Sometimes their reputation of knowledgeable and readable prose get them book deals.

Writing a newspaper column on wine is not easy business. Your audience tends to be far less sophisticated than those of wine magazines, so you can't assume quite as much about the wine knowledge your readers will posses.

Generally the wine columnist doesn't have too much space to work with. While it's the enlightened editor and newspaper publisher that brings the tradition and heritage of wine to their pages, they also realize it's not this somewhat romantic handout to their readership that pays the bills. That's done by the restaurants, grocery stores and airlines that use the food section for their brand building. Wine is usually just their for the ride.(There are a few columnists and "Food Sections with a real commitment to wine that play an important role in newspaper advertising revenue. In my neck of the woods both the San Francisco chronicle and the Santa Rosa Press Democrat do a good job of providing the kind of wine coverage that appeals to a broad range of advertisers) So the wine columnists must cherish those relatively few inches he gets on a weekly basis.

Bob Hosmon, the wine columnist for Florida Sun Sentinel is one of those people who has been writing a newspaper-bound wine column for many years, and doing it with great success and style. His most current column on mid-priced Bordeaux is a perfect example of doing just the right thing with a small space and for his particular audience.

Hosmon adheres to the C-O-R-E School of wine columning: Context, Opinion, Reviews-Education. His writings have all this in small space, making it easy for a reader to learn something about the topic and Hosmon, while picking up some ideas and for their next wine.

In three short paragraphs we learn that 2002 is a vintage turning out to be better than earlier believed and this has led to there being significant values on the market. We also learn that this mis-evaluation of the 2002 Bordeaux vintage has led to the release of wines at 25%-35% lower than they normally would be. Yet, not only is there good value on the market but also, according to Hosmon "In this price category, ranging from slightly under $20 to about $45, Bordeaux has the world beat." There really is no need for Hosmon to make this kind of statement of preference. The point had been made. But it's this kind of little tidbit that makes a newspaper column one to read. The reader gets a little inside basball they can use at the next wine-drinking event, plus they have a really good buying tip next time they are standing in front of a huge selection of wine contemplating what $30 wine the'll give to their boss for Christmas. It's pretty astute writing for seventeen short words.

That's a lot to shove into three short paragraphs. And it's not easy to do either.

From here it's on to the reviews of some of these Bordeaux that he recommends. I've always said a good review, a really good review, is more than adjectives and names of fruit. A good review must offer the reader some context for the wine. Even offering the tiniest bit of information about the wine before the fruits and flowers come you give the reader another reason to pay attention to the wine and even another reason for them to buy it. Hosmon accomplishes this:

"Chateau La Gurgue 2002 ($18 to $22; Margaux): Little La Gurgue's postage-stamp vineyard is located amid the best parcels of first-growth Chateau Margaux ($150). La Gurgue displays the classic Margaux commune style, marrying a fine violet-scented bouquet to aristocratically lean, supple fruit. Ready now."

I've always said that in terms of educating America about wine and promoting wine in general, it's the newspaper wine columnists and writers that have always done the heavy lifting. But to appreciate their role, you also have to appreciate the constraints they work under. Its not an easy glass to fill.

Hosmon is a frequent contributor to Wine News Magazine and also the associate dean of the School of Communication at the University of Miami.

They aren't all Bad...

Let it not be said that FERMENTATIONS is a blog that only bashes wholesalers. The fact is, beyond dong a great job of getting wine on the shelves SOME Wholesaler organizatons are doing the right thing. One of the right things the MA Wholesalers are doing is trying to convince minors not to drink and not to drive drunk.

This press release outlines a little program they are engaging in along with the Century Council to help in that regard.

The fact is, anyone involved in alcohol commerce has a responsibility to adopt higher standards when it comes to facing the social welfare issues that come with the territory. Directly doing this, as in trying to prevent more drunk driving is quite admirable. Trying to convince youngsters not to drink is also admirable.

The Secret Recipe For Making Cult Wine Revealed

I can't believe someone published this. It was suppose to be a big secret! But the LA Times let the cat out of the bag: They published the recipe for making a cult wine.

They got it right, too. I could add a few items but this recipe, along with a few million dollar will in fact get you your very own California Cult Cabernet:

•  Build your own high-tech winery, using no pumps, only gravity.

•  Burrow into the side of a hillside to create caves.

•  Hire Heidi Peterson Barrett or Phillip Melka as winemaker.

•  Claim extraordinary characteristics for your soils.

•  Plant vines so close together that they "struggle."

•  Harvest only perfect grapes and sort twice to make sure

•  Harvest as late as your nerves will allow.

•  Ferment your wine in micro lots.

•  Sell less than 1,000 cases of wine per vintage.

•  Charge more than $100 a bottle for the first vintage.

•  Offer the wines for sale only through mailing lists and at ritzy restaurants.

•  Pretend you've never marketed your wine.

They did forget one thing. You really do need to have a huge review from Robert Parker (94 or above) or from the Wine Spectator (96 or above) in order to have more than a Big CA Cab with a cave to store it in.

It takes more than wine to buy off this politician

What's it cost to get a self-serving Bill introduced into the Michigan legislature? Apparently a mere $12,000.

WardThat's how much Michigan State representative Chris Ward (R) received from the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Associations gave to Ward during his last election campaign. And it turns out that this was the largest contribution to a single Michigan legislator made by the wholesalers.

And what did they get? Ward is the chief sponsor of a bill completely outlawing all forms of direct shipping in Michigan, a policy that will over turn 30 years of Michigan wineries being able to ship wine to Michigan residents.

So, as long as Mr. Ward's activities in the Michigan Legislature are for sale, I have a proposal.

Let's start the "Chris Ward Wine Education Fund". I'm sure that between wine lovers across the country, some Michigan wineries and maybe a few entrepreneurs we can gather up $13,000 for the "continuing wine education of Rep. Chris Ward." In return, we'd only ask that he introduce legislation allowing direct shipping.

Wine Wholesalers Rely on Bogus Report to Link Minors, Alcohol & Internet

WHOLESALERS USING BOGUS FIGURES TO PUSH NOTION THAT MINORS ARE ORDERING ALCOHOL OFF THE INTERNET EN MASS

--No Studies Have Ever Been Published That Address Minors, Alcohol and the Internet

The politics of direct shipping have more to do with money profits and commerce than anything else. However, the debate over direct shipping has centered on the potential for the minors to get alcohol via the Internet.

So much so has this issue been centered around minors that any state now wishing to open up direct shipping to their residents must show there is a way to make it extraordinarily difficult, if not impossible, for minors to receive alcohol via the Internet.

Yet the assumption that many minors are in fact now getting wine and alcohol via the Internet has no basis in fact and there is no study that shows this is actually occurring. Nevertheless, organizations such as the Wine and Spirit Wholesalers Association and other like minded organizations have been suggesting that up to 10% of minors are receiving alcohol via the Internet and home delivery.

For nearly a decade, while the direct shipping battle has waged, opponents of direct shipping relied on stings to show that minors could get alcohol on the Internet. But they had no data or study to show it was happening outside the context of stings. That is, until the prestigious National Academy of Sciences published "Reducing Underage Drinking: A Collective Responsibility (2004)"

This was the study that would allow opponents of direct shipping of wine to suggest that massive numbers of minors were obtaining alcohol via the Internet.

On page 174 of that publication the authors write: "

"Surveys of underage purchase of alcohol over the Internet or through home delivery show that small percentages (10 percent) of young people report obtaining alcohol in this manner."

The Wine and Spirit Wholesalers Association responded to the publishing of this paper and these words with this posting on their website:

"NATIONAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES REPORTS KIDS BUY ALCOHOL ON THE INTERNET AND THROUGH HOME DELIVERIES, THREAT COULD GROW: A Congressionally-mandated report which examined strategies to reduce and prevent underage drinking, warns that the unregulated direct shipping of alcohol through home delivery and the Internet is a new way for teens to buy alcohol. Fully 10% of young people report obtaining alcohol in this manner"

The problem is, the National Academy of Sciences' figures are wrong.

The NAS paper cited the figure of 10% of minors getting alcohol via the Internet and home delivery by relying on a study done in 2000 entitled "Alcohol Home Delivery Services: A Source of Alcohol for Underage Drinkers" by Linda Fletcher et al.

The "Fletcher Study" does not use the world "Internet", "Web", "World Wide Web" or "electronic commerce" anywhere in its pages. And there is good reason for this. The paper, based on a survey taken in 1994 and 1995, only looks at home delivery of alcohol from a local retail outlet. The "10% of minors statistic" is taken from this sentence in the Fletcher study:

"Of 12th graders, 10% indicated purchasing alcohol delivered by a store to a home or an individual in the past year."

Opponents of direct shipping are concerned that if alcohol purchases are not monitored and controlled via the three tier system, there is just too much chance that minors can get their hands on alcohol. Yet in this study, the one used by the National Academy of Sciences and eventually by the Wine and Spirit Wholesalers Association, the alcohol minors are getting their hand on is going through Wholesalers hands first.

I spoke with one of the co-authors of the Fletcher Study, Dr. Traci Toomey. She told me, "using the Fletcher study as a basis for claiming minors are getting alcohol via the Internet would be a misinterpretation of the data."

But this isn't all that Dr. Toomey had to say about the study that led the National Academy of Sciences and thet Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association and a number of other groups and media to claim that 10% of minors were getting alcohol via the Internet and home delivery. In a paper Dr. Toomey and Dr. Kelli Komro authored in 2004 for the National Academy of Alcohol Abuse  and Alcoholism entitled "Strategies to Prevent Underage Drinking" they point to another problem with the Fletcher study:

"The only published study of teen use of home delivery found that 10 percent of the 12th graders and 7 percent of the 18- to 20-year-olds reported consuming home-delivered alcohol (Fletcher et al. 2000). A limitation of this study is that it did not ask whether it was the underage youth or an adult who had ordered the delivery of alcohol."

When I asked Dr. Toomey to clarify this statement she said, "Basically, we don't know if minors were getting this alcohol at their front door or if they were taking it out of their parents' alcohol cabinet."

The National Academy of Science report on underage drinking completely misstated the degree to which minors are obtaining alcohol via the Internet. That mistake led to the the "10% of minors getting alcohol via the Internet" claim showing up in the mainstream media, in testimony before the U.S. Congress, and in briefs filed for the recent U.S. Supreme Court cases.

The fact is, no study has ever been published that shows any degree of minors getting their hands on alcohol via the Internet. Furthermore, this writer has reason to believe that there is an unpublished study that shows the amount of alcohol minors use and that is obtained via the Internet is less than  one-percent.

Though cynical, it's fair to say that when you are trying to make a point in the public arena, facts are not always the tool one reaches for first. That's just the way it is. But when you are considering legislation that would hurt in considerable ways small family businesses and when you are arguing before the Supreme Court of the United States and when you are testifying before congress, it's pretty important and a nod toward responsibility to get the facts right. People's livelihood is at stake.

I called the Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association, spoke to Rebbecca in their Communications Department and asked if they wanted to comment on this story prior to it being posted here. They noted they would get back to me if they wanted to. So far, no comment.

It's important to know if the wholesalers and particularly the WSWA are aware of the contents of the Fletcher Study. If they are then they are willfully using a report they know is wrong. If they are not aware of the contents of the Fletcher study then they should be made aware of it and asked not to refer to any report or paper that uses it to suggest 10% of minors are getting alcohol via the Internet and home delivery. This writer made a member of their staff aware of the bogus nature of the numbers they are citing.

Wine, Fake Polls and No Shame

The battle for wine between the monopolist wholesalers and small wineries has begun in Michigan where the the beer and whine wholesalers and Michigan Liquor control commission, along with fake public policy groups like "Coalition for a safe and responsible Michigan" are using their money and the influence they've bought in the legislature to take on about 40 Michigan wineries in a bid to assure all profits stay with the wholesalers.

The first volley in the battle was a poll conducted on the issue of alcohol delivery. This is a standard tactic used primarily to produce cover for legislators who on the one hand want to support those who contributed to their campaigns (wholesalers) but have a feeling such support would violate the desires of the citizens.

This poll, those commission by "The Coalition for a safe and responsible Michigan" was actually paid for by the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Association. Released last week, the pool is being tauted as proving that Michigan residents don't want directs shipping of wine.

First, let's be clear that this "Coalition", run by Lansing lobbyist Better Mercer and claiming to have numerous members, is in fact owned and directed by the Wholesalers. It's one of many such fake organizations the wholesalers across the country have set up by completely ignoring the cynicism the organizations represent.

Second, this new poll is a perfect example of a PUSH POLL. What's that? It's a poll taken in which the questions are designed to obtain a particular response.

Take for example this question:

"Now I would like to describe...concerns that have been associated with the sale of beer, wine, liquor and other alcohol products through the mail or over the Internet. It will hurt Michigan small businesses that will be forced to compete directly with large, international corporations? Is this a very serious problem, a somewhat serious problem, only a minor problem, or  not really a problem at all?     

24%    Very serious problem              
27%    Somewhat serious problem     

22%    Only a minor problem              
18%    Not really a problem at all

I spoke with Mercer, the "head" of the Coalition and asked, which "large international corporations" will Michigan wineries be forced to compete with if they are allowed to continue to ship direct. Ms. Mercer had no idea. She told me, "you'll have to speak to the organization that conducted the poll.

So I did. I spoke with poll takers EPIC*MRA. And I asked the same question. They did not know which large, international corporations were going to swoop into Michigan either. Of course they didn't know. It's a completely bogus question meant to get those taking the poll to offer up a response against direct shipping. Even more interesting is this. Early on in the poll the questions is asked would you support legislation allowing direct shipping into Michigan and from Michigan wineries. 45% said yes. 44% said no. Then they start asking questions about "large, international corporations and minors getting their hands on alcohol.

Finally, after PUSHING this information/questions on the survey respondents they ask the following question:

"People sometimes change their mind while taking surveys. Thinking  about these two concerns, do you think that Michigan law should be  changed to allow both in-state and out-of-state companies to sell  beer, wine, liquor and other alcohol products by mail or over the  Internet, or, do you think that all sales of alcohol products by mail  or over the Internet should be banned?"

63% say it should be banned.

This last question is a perfect example of what these kind of polls are meant to do, create exactly the response those paying for the poll want.

Now this poll will be used to convince Michigan State Legislators to vote to ban all direct shipping. Better Mercer is a mature, competent, experienced player in Lansing, Michigan politics. Nevertheless, she should be ashamed of herself for being involved in a crusade to hurt the state's wineries just to make a measly retainer fee offered up by the Michigan wholesalers. She should be ashamed of herself for doing anything to suggest there is a clear and present danger of minors using the Internet to obtain alcohol when she knows there is no such problem and no supporting study to suggest it is happening.

This battle is just beginning. The second volley was tossed by the wholesalers when they got some legislators who have received wholesaler money to to introduce a bill last week that would ban all direct shipping to Michigan consumers. A competing bill will be introduced this week by someone who has not received money from Michigan wineries that would allow direct shipping.

The Arrival of $3.99 Napa Valley Wine

You  have to respect a man willing to toss away profit just to make his point.

Fredfranzia
Alan Goldfarb, the must-read wine editor for the St. Helena Star, delivers the tale of Fred Franzia, the many that would throw mud in Napa Valley's face. You may recall that Fred Franzia is the originator of 2-Buck Chuck and the owner of Napa Creek Winery. His Chuckie wines did just great, selling a gazzilion cases over at Trader Joes. But in the mean time, he wasn't having so much luck with his Napa Creek brand.

After a good deal of pushing from the Napa winery crowd, the Supreme Court of the United States said Fred MUST use Napa Valley grapes in his "Napa Creek" brand. Otherwise, the court said, it would essentially be false advertising. The problem was that Fred's Napa Creek brand was a low end bottling that didn't have much of any Napa Juice in it.

So much for Napa Creek, right. Not so fast. Franzia has announced he'll be releasing a $3.99 wine made from Napa Valley grapes and selling it under the Napa Creek label.

Basically, Fred is telling all those snooty Napa types, "Fine...Here's your Napa wine!"

How Franzia is able to bottle a $3.99 wine is something Goldfarb explores in his article. Whether it's any good isn't really the point either. The point is, you can't get rid of  Fred Franzia with a little old Supreme Court judgment.

Many of the Napa Valley wineries don't like the idea of a $3.99 wine from their Valley. But it looks like they are going to have to live with it, just like they are going to have to live with Fred Franzia.

The Best Wine Event Ever...Really

Howie
One of the real joys of my work is helping clients put together their Wine Club events. These are events, get-togethers, parties and such designed specifically for those wine lovers that have joined a winery's club, those people who regularly buy wine vintage after vintage. They need to be treated like the special friends they are.

COMEDY NIGHT IN THE CELLAR...WHAT A GREAT IDEA
One event we planned a couple years ago over at Mayo Family Winery and duplicated again this year was hands down the most successful event I've ever involved a client with: Comedy Night in the Cellar.

COMEDY OFF THE VINE...BEST WINE EVENT I'VE EVER PRODUCED
There is this comedian from Southern California, Howie Walfish (That's his real name) who put together a company he calls "Comedy Off the Vine". Basically, he contracts with wineries to create comedy nights, bringing himself and a couple other comedians into a winery for a show of laughs. Howie nails the wine country, the winery and the visitors with commentary on the "wine country lifestyle".
Comedyoffvine

LAUGHING AT THE GOURMET BUBBLE IN WHICH WE LIVE
I was talking to him yesterday about an upcoming show. In the course of this conversation he naturally goes off on a riff about the "Gourmet Lifestyle Bubble" in which we wine country types live. Really funny stuff...because it's true. Napa and Sonoma wine country does tend to live in this bubble of epicurean delights that define our lifestyle. And when you sit back and listen to someone else talk about it from an outsiders perspective, it looks pretty funny.

Howie has played all the big comedy houses, done the TV thing and for some time was considered the top "Murder Mystery" comedian in Southern California. Now he's branching out and taking on wine country. (Check out some video's of his work....Funny!)

If any winery owners are reading this let me just say this: You will make your club members happier than ever before, create important loyalty and sell more wine on a comedy in the cellar event than nearly any other event you can think up. It's as simple as this: Wine lovers are so pre-disposed to laugh at themselves once they are given the chance to do so.

Of course my message her to wineries is to go outside the box in creating events for your wine club members. Howie Walfish's comedy nights, while the best and most successful "out-of-the-box" experience I've ever concocted, is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what's possible. The epicurean bubble we live in up here tends to result in most events being the same: Meet the winemaker, drink his wine in the his cellar with candles, eat great food, buy something at an auction and listen to some jazz.

CREATING SMILES CREATES SALES
People are far more willing to open their wallet and be appreciative as they do it if they are happy at the time. I can recall listening to Howie go off on "the god awful amount of wine you people drink up here" and looking out at an audience in which every single face had a smile on it. My client ended the night with more loyal customers, more wine club members and a very long register receipt of the wines they sold that night.

Yes, this is a bit of a commercial for Howie's "Comedy Off the Vine" services. But it's also a call for more creativity in the world of wine events and wine clubs. Howie will give you that for sure. But there are numerous ways to accomplish this. And it's good business.

Mr. California....Meet Mr. Oregon

Vineyardrain
I sat in my office yesterday here in Sonoma Valley and watched it rain...all day. Highly unusual.

But I did have a chance to speak with a client with many years experience growing grapes and making wine in this neck of the woods. I asked him, "just what effect is this going to have on the grapes and the harvest. Instead of giving me a response about mold or rot as I suspected he pointed out something I hadn't even considered:

"We are getting a taste of how the rest of the world grows grapes," he said. "A colleague from Oregon tells me 'California is experiencing what we up in Oregon wine country call a pretty good season so far'"

Which of course made me reflect on what I've said and what I've heard many others say over the years: "If Burgundians  or Bordelais could trade in their climate for our climate here in California they do so in a heartbeat."

Which of course is true, no matter what the French say about "terroir" only existing in the great vineyards of France. Grape growers in California do live a bit of a charmed life when it comes to the conditions under which they grow their grapes...this odd, fine, Oregon-like weather aside.

An Intelligent Slice of Vice Changes Wine

Going against the stodgy grain of traditional wine marketing and wine writing is commonplace today. You see a number of funky, left of center, youth oriented labels everywhere. And, a number of writers and publications these days devote themselves to demystifying wine in a way that puts the beverage in the context of popular culture.

So, It might be hard to imagine how revolutionary Wine X Magazine was in 1997 when Darryl Roberts founded it and promised a little "Wine, Food and an Intelligence Slice of Vice".

WinexcoversI started thinking about how the world of wine had changed the other day as I wrote about Jason Priestley new TV show then moved directly to the latest issue of Wine Spectator Magazine. It struck, as it occasionally does, that the marketing of wine, though not revolutionized, certainly has changed the way it addresses the various demographic segments in America.

I am convinced that Wine X Magazine has had a huge impact on the wine industry. Robert's magazine has never reached circulation levels that the Wine Spectator delivers to advertisers. But I'll be that nearly every marketing person in wine and most winery execs have taken note of the new direction Wine X pointed the industry in when it started describing wine in terms of music and movies, placed wine country in the context of younger eyes and started speaking up for Gen X drinkers

The best way to understand the difference that Wine X brought to the world of wine marketing and wine publishing is to look at the selection here of Wine X covers. Now..imagine Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast using these covers. That notion lingers for a second or two...if that.

I'm not suggesting that the Wine Spectator's or Wine Enthusiast Magazine's take on wine is old fashioned or discredited. It's not. Clearly a large number of wine lovers dive in deep when their latest issues arrives. What I am suggesting is that Wine X Magazine was so different, it's message so unavoidably coherent, that it result in a new paradigm for understanding wine consumers.

This is verified by looking back at the kind of letters and responses Roberts received about his new magazine. You'd think Wine X had endorsed mass murder. And these angry letters of opinions came mainly from industry types. You know Wine X had hit a chord! For example, take a look at this letter they received:

"I'm currently traveling in the U.S. and picked up a recent copy of your U.S. publication and decided to have a look at your site. As someone who places large amounts of advertising with magazines worldwide, AUD $4.0m per month, I'd have to say you are the dumbest fucking c-words I've ever had the bad luck to look up. Any shit rag that talks to the industry with the amount of disrespect, deserves to run no name "stars" on your cover with 3 ads - one from Alice White of all gutter brands. Good for you arrogant fucking wankers! Needless to say I'll spend elsewhere.

Nice, huh?!?

The point is, this person is clearly confronting something he doesn't understand and really doesn't know how to react to it. This was common in the early years of Wine X Magazine. But  as I said, things have changed. A lot of people "Get It" now and a lot of people in the wine industry and among wine writers have changed they way they approach their business...thanks to Wine X Magazine.

My Favorite Meal

Cheesewine
My favorite meal in this world is a simple one, and one my wife and I engage in on regular basis: Two or three fine cheeses, good crusty french bread, a lump of very good, fresh butter, and a bottle of wine. I've never met a wine lover who did not have a near reverence for the pairing of wine and cheese. And how could I. The two are of the same type. The best of each reflect a region, they reflect a culture and when paired together correctly can offer up a revelatory experience.

The San Francisco Chronicle gets this. Each week, in their fabulous "Wine Section" on Thursday, the Chronicle prints Janet Fetcher's "The Cheese Course" columns. It's revealing that this column on fine cheeses from around the world is printed in the Wine Section, rather than in the Wednesday Food Section.

While it's not necessary to have an education in cheese to enjoy the varied types any more than it is necessary to have an education in wine to enjoy a glass, understanding the history of a cheese, how a cheese is made, and what one can expect from a younger or better aged cheese certainly heightens the experience. This is exactly what Fletcher gives us each Thursday in the Chronicle.

Now although I am not positive about this, I'd be willing to bet that Fletcher's cheese column is likely on of no more than two or three such regular columns on cheese run in America's newspapers. I wouldn't be surprised if it were the only one. Luckily for you, an archive of these columns can be found on the Internet.

Each week Fletcher takes on one cheese. We learn of it's geographic origin, who it is made, any regulations associated with it's production. We learn something of the history of its production. Fletcher almost always tells us what the weight of a wheel of the cheese will weigh and the shape it will take. We learn what to expect from the cheese in its youth and its age. And of course, she normally gives us a hint as to which wine to pair with the cheese.

If you live in an area where the the best selection of cheese is found in the grocery store and the best you can do is a "domestic gruyere" then you are likely to read Fletcher's column as nothing more than a tease. In fact, if you don't have access to a store that provides a great selection of cheese from around the world, you may be better off avoiding Fletcher's "The Cheese Course" column all together.

But for those of you without a good resource for great cheeses yet still wanting to indulge your mind and palate in cheese, I off the following links:

Janet Fletcher's "Cheese Course" Columns in the San Francisco Chronicle
Cheese Supply
Big Cheese Stories
Tales From the Cheese monger

Wine: Part of the Social Tolerance Index

While small relative to other states, Utah's $168 Million in sales of wine for their fiscal year 2004 is a record. The state compiles these numbers because it's the state that controls all wine distribution. According to Ken Wynn, Director of the  Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control, that $168 Million is a 20% increase over wine sales in 1999.

I honestly don't know how this rate of growth compares with other states. Though I doubt it far exceeds the growth in wine sales in many states, the point is that it seems to impress Utah.

What's interesting to this blogger is how they are accounting for the greater wine sales in a state known for its tee-totaling ways. Wynn suggests migration has a great deal to do with more wine jumping off shelves and down people's throats. People moving to Utah from states where alcohol consumption is less of a stigma seem to be the ones pushing sales.

Wynn also suggests that it's the quality of wines now being stocked in Utah that is resulting in greater sales:  "We have probably one of the finest wine selections anywhere," he said. "We're able to get 'boutique' wines from California that aren't available elsewhere."

I can't speak to the quality of the wine selection in Utah since I've not been there in years. But it makes you wonder: does a better selection of wine lead to more people drinking it, or do more people wanting to drink wine lead to the creation of a better selection?

Either way, if Utah is becoming more of a wine drinking state I think that's a good thing. Wine is in fact a civilizing beverage. When you come across a region where it is readily accepted you know you are somewhere that hosts people of a broader more tolerant perspective. And that's a good thing.

Wine Crook

Here's a wine cautionary tale for you.

Wine lovers and investors were bilked out of millions of dollars through a fraudulent company in Colorado that was selling "Wine Futures" of First Growth Bordeaux. The problem was that the owner of Rare LLC took the money he was receiving from those who invested in the Futures through him and remodeled home and bought cars and threw parties...and never delivered the wine.

Buying Wine Futures is a common way of purchasing highly sought after wines. Essentially you pay a retailer for the wine well in advance of receiving it. You get a good price on the wine and supposedly a guarantee that you will get the wine.

That wasn't the case here.

The crook is Ronald Wallace. He struck a plea bargain and plead guilty to two counts of mail fraud, four counts of wire fraud and one count of conducting an unlawful monetary transaction. He says he'll also make restitution to those he