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Wine Blog Breaking New Ground

Dr. Vino is one of my favorite wine bloggers. His posts are diverse and his insights crisp. His latest project is pretty brilliant.

Dr. Vino has launched The Real Wine World, a project in which he will follow the exploits of three wine professionals for a 12 month period. This should open some eyes for those interested in getting into the wine business.

He'll be reporting on the day to day activities of an Argentina winemaker, an Italian wine importer and a New York retailer.
Drvino1  Drvino2  Drvino3

Dr. Vino's Project reminds me of "A Very Good Year", a new book by Mike Weiss that follows a bottle of Ferrari-Carano wine from vineyard to the market place.

I wonder if wine is set to take off as a cultural phenomenon? With Sideways the movie as the starting point and new TV shows on wine coming out way, more  wine magazines coming that address various niches in the market, it just may happen.

Cute Pigs, Cat Pee, Drunk Frogs and the mind of the wine consumer

"I don't have time to learn about wine. But I like wine, so I buy something that clicks with me, that evokes a feeling or a memory, then I've already got a good connection with it before I even open it."
Label
Yes, this comes from that growing legion of wine drinkers who are buying the label rather than the juice inside. It's really hard to argue with attitude, particularly as it exists among those who like wine, but don't care about wine...most people.
Label1
But it's also this attitude that is pushing wine marketers who want to play in the commodity market to create ever more fanciful, colorful and ultimately animal-laden labels. A nod here must to to Yellow Tail, that phenomenon out of Australia. That wine has risen to the top of the wine world and everyone seems to be shooting at it.
Label2
And why not, we've always known that consumers buy the label at least as often as they buy the product. To many marketers this reality drives their entire project, with product being a second thought. Then there are others (German wineries, for example) who care far more for the product than the packaging.
Label3
This very good story from Cox News Service reporter Sandra Eckstein looks at the growing trend of those who just by wine labels instead of the wine inside.
Label4
The labels you see in this post are actually some of my favorites. Some of them grace very good wine, others just average wine.

We do a good amount of packaging at Wark Communications. I can tell you first hand that we've had a number of requests for "different" packaging from clients of late. Yet, these request still do not outnumber clients requesting "evocative" or "elegant" or "artistic" designs. There is still the perception among many in the wine industry that the "animal labels" and "different labels" deliver a sense of low end wine.

The Amazing Impact of Only 9% Vines

NapaI've been spending a lot of time in Napa Valley and thinking about Napa Valley these days due to a collection of clients we are working with at Wark Communications who reside in that Valley over the hill.

In focusing on Napa Valley of late I've bumped up  against one of those issues of "perception vs. reality." As you drive through Napa it's easy to get the impression that vineyards are planted everywhere and that the region is simply a collection of vines, broken up on occassion by a home or  small town.

In reality only 9% of Napa County is planted to vines. A mere NINE PERCENT. That's a lot less than most people familiar with America's most famous wine region would think. But of late, we've learned a lot more about the impact of Napa Valley winemaking.

According to a study completed concerning the impact of Napa Valley's wine industry on the economy we find out that:

-Napa Valley only produces 4% of the State's wine by volume
-At $2.3 Billion, revenue from the sales of Napa Valley wines represents 27% of the State's revenue from wine sales.
-Wine Industry Jobs account for half of all Napa County employment
-$1.4 Billion in wages are generated by the Napa wine industry
-$800 Million in State taxes are generated from Napa wines.

Clearly the premium wine drinkers are willing to pay for Napa Valley wines are refleted in these numbers. But it's still the mere NINE PERCENT of Napa County land being taken up by vines that stands out to me. It would be fascinating to compare this with other CA wine regions as well as prominent wine regions in other parts of the world.

A Tale of CA Politics, Wine Politics and the Law

If, as the Supreme Court said, a state has the right to regulate the sale of alcohol nearly any way it wants as long as in-state and out-of-state wineries are on equal footing, does this also mean that the same applies to wine retailers?

California's answer to this question appears to be "NO", a response that could lead to more lawsuits dealing in discrimination just as the recent Supreme Court case did.

THE NEW CA WINE SHIPPING LAW

Currently California Senate Bill 118 is moving through committees and toward the Governor's desk. SB118 would essentially allow any winery in any state to ship up to 24 cases a year to a California resident. It's a bill that basically removes the "reciprocity" plan that had governed direct sales of wine into California for many years. Under reciprocity, a state's wineries or retailers could ship into California so long as it allowed California's wineries and retailers to ship to its residents.

The Supreme Court had something to say about these reciprocity laws. Writing for the majority in Granholm V. Heald, Justice Kennedy cited reciprocity laws as "low-level trade war among the states.  The perceived necessity for reciprocal sales privileges risks generating the trade rivalries and animosities, the alliances, and exclusivity, that the Constitution and, in particular the Commerce Clause, were designed to avoid."

Basically, Kennedy said reciprocity is unconstitutional. So California went about fixing this situation.

The new bill, authored by CA Senator Wes Chesbro, allows any state's wineries to ship to California resident's as long as they get a permit, don't ship more than 24 cases per year to a single person, as well as follow other basic requirements.

NO SHIPPING TO CA FOR MOST OUT OF STATE RETAILERS
What's really interesting, and short-sighted in this writers opinion, is that SB118 does not speak to out of state retailers' rights to ship to California residents. In the bill's original form retailers in all states would have been allowed to ship to California residents under the same guidelines as wineries. But after all the stake holders got together to talk about what should be done, and after the bill was amended in committee, the retailer privilege was largely stripped out.  In the current version of the bill, only retailers in those states that were formerly "reciprocal states" under California law (12 of them) will still have the right to ship into California. Why was this change to the bill made?

The only group that was opposed to retailers being able to ship into California were the big California wholesalers.

WHOLESALERS PUT THEIR FOOT DOWN...ON RETAILERS
The wholesalers objected to the competition on slippery slope grounds. The Santa Rosa Press Democrat reported that Don Robbins, General Council for Young's Market, one of California's largest wholesalers of wine, said the bill "would change the balance of the game. If it's good for retailers then it's good for wholesalers and if that's the case, then everyone is in business everywhere."

I spoke with officials at the California Wine Institute, Family Winemakers of California, California Association of Winegrape Growers, as well as members of Senator Chesbro's staff. Interestingly, when I asked why retailer privileges had been stripped from the bill, they all said the same thing...using nearly the very same words:

SB 118 brings California into compliance with the meaning of Granholm Vs. Heald. The Attorney General of California determined that the Supreme Court case only dealt with wineries so it was necessary only to deal with wineries in this legislation.

NARROW READING OF SUPREME COURT DECISION HELPS
EXCLUDE OUT OF STATE RETAILERS

This seems an extraordinarily narrow reading of the recent Supreme Court case. Those supporting this reading make note that the term "retailer" was never mentioned in the Supreme Court opinion. And that's true. But the principle behind the opinion seems clearly to apply not merely to wineries but to alcohol regulation in general. One could easily read the Granholm V. Heald decision and determine that it applied to alcohol regulation in general, rather than simply wine. The choice not to open California up to all retailers under the SB118 scheme seems to be a purely political choice rather than a legal decision

RETAILERS GETTING THEIR COMEUPPANCE?
Retailers have never played any significant role in trying to overturn anti-direct shipping legislation in America. In addition, not one retailer or retailer organization filed an amicus brief in the Supreme Court case. The fact is, there is a division among America's wine retailers when it comes to direct shipping. Some are all for it, wanting to cultivate customers and markets outside their geographic area. Other retailer fear the competition that direct shipping will result in. The upshot is that there has never been a consistent position among wine retailers on direct shipping like the wineries and wholesalers have maintained. You can see how it would be psychologically difficult for wineries to carry the water for retailers when the retailers never bellied up to the bar in the run-up to the Supreme Court case. In the case of SB118, California wineries decided they had no obligation to push for retailers to be included in the opening up of the State's direct shipping laws.

CA's OPEN ARMS A LITTLE LESS OPEN NOW
That said, the new direct shipping legislation will represent a change in California policy as to who the state wants shipping to California residents. Under old reciprocity agreements, California was happy to have all wineries and all retailers in any state ship to California residents as long as a reciprocity agreement was in place. There was no difference seen between an out of state winery and an out of state retailer. They were both equally encouraged to ship to California residents as long as their state had  a reciprocity agreement. Under SB118, only wineries in other states are now welcomed with open arms.

Senator Wes Chesbro, the author of SB118, along with California Attorney General Bill Lockyer believe that the Supreme Court decision clearly makes reciprocity agreements unconstitutional due to the way they discriminate against states that do not have reciprocity agreements. This is why they are changing California's laws concerning direct shipping. Yet, the reciprocity scheme remains in place when it comes to retailers. If a state passes a new "reciprocity" law, that state's retailers, according to California now and in the future, will be allowed to ship to California residents.

But I thought we had to change California law because reciprocity agreements were unconstitutional?

The New York wine shipping bill that just passed is in fact a "reciprocal" direct shipping bill. Will New York retailers be able to ship to California residents? The opinion of California's Attorney General is that the Supreme Court said reciprocity is unconstitutional.

IS CA INSTITUTING UNCONSTITUTIONAL PROVISIONS?
The attorney for the California Alcohol Beverage Control Department thinks so too. He recently said in an interview with Santa Rosa Press Democrat's Kevin McCallum concerning the constitutionality of SB118, "I think if we are challenged, it is my opinion that we would ultimately lose."

One must wonder how long it will take a wholesaler in California from filing suit to stop NY retailers from shipping into California on the grounds the State law permitting it is unconstitutional. For that matter, why wouldn't a retailer in a state that does not have reciprocal legislation in place not file suit against California claiming it's reciprocity statutes that now exist only for the purpose of governing which retailers can ship to California file suit. They could easily claim the law is unconstitutional based on Granholm vs. Heald.

But here is what I think is worst part of SB118, rather than the confusion it creates: as other states look to change their laws to adapt to the Supreme Court decision they will look to see what California has done, notice that most states have their retailers excluded from shipping wine to California and conclude that California retailers should be excluded from shipping into their states. In fact, it seems to this writer that this kind of discrimination put in place by California might easily convince other states to ban shipping all together. This is particularly possible in those states that do not possess much of a wine industry that would bring pressure to allow direct shipping.

A Step In the Right Direction

Here's a step in the right direction.

Jess Jackson, owner of Kendall Jackson and Jackson Family Estates and National Distributing have formed a new company that will focuse on distributing the bottlings of small wineries. Monument Fine Wines based in Maryland will serve the Washington D.C area. GM Elysa Kudo explains the new distributorship this way:

"We want to make sure they get deserved attention. With such large companies, a little mom-and-pop winery may not get its just due."

It's no surprise that Jess Jackson is involved. Jackson has been a champion of small wineries for years, contributing to organizations and causes that help promote small wineries with time and money.

America's Wine University Turns 125

Ucdavis
America's premier wine and grapegrowing institution of higher learning is celebrating its 125th anniversary paving the way for great wine. U.C Davis was mandated in 1880 to establish a program in enology and viticulture. More California winemakers have taken their education at Davis than anywhere else.

Davis was crucial to getting the California wine industry up and running after prohibition. What made them so important was their responsiveness to the industry. The Department of Enology and Viticulture has always worked very closely with the industry, keeping careful track of the issues confronting winemakers and grapegrowers and helping them face those problems.

The instructors at UC Davis have become some of the most important names in American wine history from Harold Olmo to Carole Meredith.

Here's a toast to one important wine institution.

Interview with a Michigan Wine Warrior

Joel_1As often happens, private citizens are foreced to come together and pool their resources in order to fight protect their rights, fight more powerful and well-funded entities and create change. This is the story of WINE CAM (Wine Consumers Across Michigan. Wine Cam was created in the wake of the Supreme Court decision determining state discrimination in the direct shipping of wine was unconstitutional. Joel Goldberg is one of the founders of WineCam. He agreed to talk to FERMENTATIONS and answer questions about the organization and the fight against wholesalers and legislators in Michigan who seek to strip from consumers all rights to receive wine shipped directly to them.


What would be the consequences of a ban on all direct shipping in Michigan?

From a consumer perspective, the situation would become just slightly more dismal than it's been. The prior Michigan law -- which the Supreme Court overturned in the Heald case -- allowed in-state wineries to direct-ship to customers, while banning shipments from out-of-state wineries. Since Michigan consumers were never able to legally order direct-ship wine from other states, the entire impact of a ban would fall on our purchases from Michigan wineries.

But for these wineries, the results would be devastating. Many Michigan wineries are small, relatively new family businesses that survive close to the margin. With limited commercial distribution, a major portion  of their sales come through their tasting rooms and direct shipments to in-state customers. Winemakers I've spoken with put their direct-ship percentages from 10 or 15%, all the way up to 100%. Take those sales away and force them to sell at sharp wholesale discounts through the three-tier system, and many of them could fold almost overnight.

This has an element of tragic irony. Michigan winemakers are just beginning to come into their own, as they discover what our climate and terroir do best. When I moved to Michigan 30 years ago, there wasn't one Michigan wine I found drinkable -- and I wasn't nearly as picky about the wines I dreank back then, either.

Today I can honestly say that the single best made-in-USA Gewurztraminer and several of the best USA bubblies I've tasted proudly proclaim Michigan origins. Riesling also thrives at a number of wineries. The folks in Lansing don't have a clue what their game-playing and political posturing would do to our burgeoning wine industry.

The big wine and beer wholesalers as well as pro-direct shipping advocates have separate bills awaiting consideration in the Legislature. What steps will the Legislature take in considering these bills and what kind of time table are we looking at?

Crystal ball gazing isn't my strong suit, but since you asked...

The bills will come up first in the House of Representatives, in front of the Regulatory Reform Committee. Eight of the nine committee members took money from the Wholesalers in last year's election. The handouts averaged around $4000 apiece, and it was the largest or second-largest campaign contribution for nearly all of them. Draw your own conclusions -- but we don't expect any miracles there.

The State Senate will likely be another another matter, because the Majority Leader has already gone on record favoring "reasonable flexibility" for consumers, and he has the clout to back it up. The primary legislative advocate for direct-ship is also in the Senate; her district includes Leelanau Peninsula wine country.

The timetable is still up in the air. But with the incredibly bad press that the Wholesalers' bill has been receiving, I'd say they're in no rush to try to muscle a ban though. We're probably looking at the fall, and the showdown will likely come in the Senate.

There's one wild card, though. Now that the Supreme Court has rendered justice in the Heald decision, the case goes back down the judicial food chain to the US District Court judge in Detroit who originally heard it several years back. In theory, he has the power to order a specific remedy -- i.e. level up or level down -- based on his reading of the Supreme Court decision.

It's unlikely that he'll choose to exercise that power; he'll more likely instruct Michigan to devise its own solution to conform with the Supreme Court ruling. But a judge-ordered solution is at least a remote possibility.

What information do you have on the problem of minors purchasing alcohol via the Internet?

What problem? is there a problem? When was the last time YOU heard about a real-world minor buying wine online, as opposed to beer at the corner store or swiping a bottle of vodka from Dad's liquor cabinet?

The Detroit Free Press put it well in their editorial slamming the Wholesalers' proposed shipping ban, "The legislation is being embraced under the guise of 'protecting the kids.' More like protecting the trough that regularly wines and dines state lawmakers and occasionally jets them to exotic locales."

The claim about underage buying has been discredited every time someone took a serious look at it. The Federal Trade Commission issued a report blasting it. During the Heald case, the Court of Appeals wouldn't even let the lawyer for the Wholesalers make the argument, saying they lacked any credible evidence. And the Supreme Court dismissed it completely, Justice Kennedy writing, "The States provide little evidence that purchase of wine over the Internet by minors is a problem..."

It's been discredited by everyone, that is, except politicians whose real goal is grasping at political cover to hide their real motives. Just a few days ago, Representative Chris Ward, our state's poster boy for bought-and-paid-for politicos, was at it again, telling the Michigan State News about the 19-year-old who would order "a big shipment of vodka" if his direct-ship wine ban doesn't pass.

It's hard to argue with logic like that.

What is WineCam doing to make direct shipping of wine a reality in Michigan?

That needs rephrasing, along the lines of "What is WineCAM ABLE to do..."  The odds we face in Michigan make David versus Goliath look like a pretty even match.

We're a bunch of consumers who came together as a group about a month ago. Only a couple of us have any experience with politics or government at all, and our bank account has -- well, let's just say it's not enough to stock anyone's wine cellar.

The folks we're up against are the biggest-spending, most savvy special interest group in the state. For perspective, during last year's election these guys threw more money around Lansing than the United Auto Workers, the Teachers Union, or the Chamber of Commerce. Something like 90% of our current state legislators shared in the jackpot.

And that's not to mention all the fundraisers they orchestrate for politicos at their headquarters, a block from the State Capitol, or the legislative leaders they jet to their conferences in Grand Cayman, all expenses paid, to participate in a "legislative panel discussion".

But, as they tirelessly point out when such things are mentioned, everything they do is perfectly legal under Michigan law (which raises an entirely different set of issues...)

Anyway, that's what we're facing. Now as to what we're DOING, we're taking a two-pronged, outside / inside approach.

On the outside, we're working hard to raise public and media awareness about both the issues and the politics of direct-ship. That means press releases, interviews, appearances at wine events, and maybe even a "media event" or two closer to the final vote.

The distributors' monopoly is most effective behind closed doors, where their money and favors can prove irresistibly persuasive. So to the extent that we can move the debate out of the Capitol backrooms and into the arena of public scrutiny, the better our chances will be. Neither their arguments nor their conduct is especially appealing when viewed in the daylight.

Some of the Michigan media have picked this up already, and are giving the issue good coverage. Just last week, both the Detroit Free Press and Lansing State Journal published strong pro-shipping editorials. Both papers blasted the Wholesalers and the politicians on their dole. The State Journal even told Chris Ward to give back all the Wholesalers' contributions if he wants people to actually believe his motives. But we need to keep the issue on the front burner.

The inside part of the strategy is more difficult, because it involves reaching a group of legislators who traditionally go along with whatever the Wholesalers ask.

We're going to produce a series of objective, accurate fact sheets for the legislators and their aides, and will be setting up a lot of meetings to discuss the issues involved. We want to make sure they know what's happening in other states, like Texas, Connecticut and New York. We can't outspend or outmuscle the distribution monopoly, but we're confident we can out-truth them.

Fortuntely, they may have overplayed their hand. We've already heard that some legislators feel they were "misled" about the issues in the shipping debate, and the legislative alternatives. Some of them resent the patently false scare tactics being used about things like underage drinking.

Last but not least, we're finding hundreds -- soon to be thousands -- of consumer supporters who are signing on at the WineCAM website and wine events around the state. We'll be asking these folks to contact their legislators, attend hearings in Lansing, write letters to their local papers, and recruit friends to the cause.

Several legislators told us that the strongest argument they could have to reject the shipping ban is the need to "vote the district" -- i.e. lots of their constituents back home are concerned about their vote on this issue. We're going to engage wine consumers across the state, in every legislative district, to help provide them with that argument -- especially as they spend more time in their home districts during the summer.

Is there anything those living outside Michigan can do to help WineCam in their efforts and help Direct Shipping legislation pass?

Does the phrase "please send money" come off as too crass?

Seriously, our most pressing need is for the bucks to convey our message. Right now, our work is being done by a group of volunteers, all of whom have day jobs. We urgently need to hire a Lansing lobbyist who can help to open some of the doors there and work with us on organization and strategy. We need to produce the informational packets for the legislators and their aides, and that should involve some PR folks. And it would be nice to be able to hand out a professionally-designed brochure at wine events, in place of the home-brewed (or is that home-vinified?) version we're currently using. We're not ashamed to accept contributions from outside the state -- more information is on the donation page at the WineCAM website.

Folks from elsewhere can do one other thing. Californians may not realize that Michigan is still in the midst of a major economic slump. Our legislators confront a mammoth budget deficit, cuts in education funding, and coping with the highest unemployment rate in the nation.

This may shock you and me, but in light of those other issues, studying the intricacies of the wine shipping debate doesn't rank all that highly on most legislators' priority lists.

And unfortunately, nearly all the "information" they received until now came from the other side of the debate. For example, most legislators start with no idea that twenty-some states already allow direct-ship. Or that the national trend is heading entirely in that direction, rather than the direction our state's Wholesalers are trying to lead them.

So another important thing that people elsewhere can do is help to turn a national spotlight on Michigan's conduct on the shipping issue, as one of the two states involved in the Supreme Court case.

Michigan legislators have spent so many years at the Wholesalers' trough that they need a reality check to realize that their behavior might seem backward-looking -- or out-of-step, or just plain ridiculous -- to much of the country. If the name "Chris Ward" became the punchline for a couple of Jon Stewart jokes, that could change a dozen votes overnight. These things DO matter in a state that prefers to fancy itself as trying to break free of its rust-belt image and mindset of the last century.

But Michigan consumers and Michigan winemakers need to carry the fight. Out-of-state support could be a double-edged sword California's wine industry, which has an obvious stake in our opening to direct-ship, appeared to be orchestrating anything behind-the-scenes.  But we welcome the support -- moral, financial and logistical -- of allies everywhere, along with whatever publicity they can draw to our legislative battle.

What about the just-introduced bill to allow limited direct shipping?

It's a major step in the right direction compared with the "Let's Kill Them All" approach of the Wholesalers' / Chris Ward bill. But from a consumer point of view, there are some serious flaws that reflect the lack of consumer input in its drafting.

To cite one example, the bill would prohibit the thousands of Michigan residents who annually visit wine country in other states from sending their own wine purchases home to themselves! So if I spent a couple of days in Dry Creek and put together two or three mixed cases, there would be no legal way to get them back to Michigan. That's both petty and strongly anti-consumer, and getting it right would involve no significant loss to our state.

Because of provisions like this, I can't support the limited shipping bill in its current form, even though it's clearly preferable to a total ban. But with some tweaking, it could become a law with which Michigan wine consumers could live happily.

What else is on the WineCAM agenda?

Right now, we need to focus all our energy on direct-ship. As a group, we've been so busy playing catch-up that we've never even talked about "What comes next?"

But there's an ongoing need for a voice to speak unabashedly on behalf of wine consumers in Michigan, and perhaps elsewhere. In the past, when issues with a major impact on consumer rights got decided, the only folks in the room were government officials and those "in the biz". That's a mistake.

I'd like to see WineCAM become an advocate for a range of consumer-oriented improvements in Michigan beverage regulations. For example, why shouldn't the Governor appoint at least one or two members of our Liquor Control Commission specifically to represent the interests of the consumer? Compared to many states, we have quite backward-looking regulations in areas like restaurant BYO and in-store tastings. These could stand re-examining.

Who knows -- in some future debate, we might even find ourselves on the same side of the street as the Wholesalers.

Joel Goldberg was born in Connecticut and moved to Michigan after college. He started his own non-wine-related Michigan retail business business ni 1985, yet always had an strong interest in wine. Joel was an early adopter of Internet wine resources using the Prodigy wine board to talk wine with others then migrating to the Compuserve wine discussion board and later to Robin Garr's Wine Lovers' Discussion Group. Joel co-founded MoCool (the Motown Co-operative Off-Line) for on-line wine fans in 1992. Its annual tasting weekends continue today as the world's longest-running gathering of its type.
He is Involved in various Michigan wine and tasting events, including Ann Arbor's WineFest charity auction.

Celebrating with "The Social Lubricant Club"

My wife and I attended a really beautiful wine event yesterday. We and a number of other "wine club" members spent the day treking through vineyards up in the Atlas Peak appellation where Astrale e Terra Winery have their vineyards. We were led by the owner and winemaker and learned a great deal about hillside grapegrowing and winemaking in a mountain appellation.

Astrale

Letter we dined under a tent in the Shadow of these hillside vineyards and overlooking hundreds of acres of pristine vineyards A nice breeze wafted through the tent where we enjoyed a fabulous luncheon at a long table where fabulous wine flowed.

But as lovely as this all was, it was not the stunning setting, the great wine and perfectly matched foods that made this a perfect example of what draws people to wine and finally captures them in a lifelong pursuit of its appreciation. In fact, it was our compatriots under that tent that really define the wine experience.

I sat across from Monique. Monique is full blooded Italian, born in Paris, raised in Cannes and a citizen of the United States for the past 40 years. She was a fun, boisterous woman for whom enjoyment of life and people had become something of an art. She still spoke a with a french accent and communicated with her eyes and smile. From her seat at the middle of the table she was able to share her joy with nearly half the people at this long table. She ate drank, toasted, talked, laughed, joked, shared and drew people into her world. She clearly felt she was among friends as she looked at the 30 or so others who shared this meal with her.

But the thing about Monique was this: She was really not very different from anyone else at the table.

This is what makes wine an avocation that is not so much about vintage, ratings, education and palates. This is what makes the avocation of wine about sharing and living life well.

I suspect that when those devoted to bowling, horticulture, music, archeology and stamp collecting get together there is a similar camaraderie that emerges, and a sense of sharing and instant closeness that reveals itself as the gathering gets going. But with wine, the drink nearly always becomes secondary at our gatherings. Those devoted to wine seem not to be celebrating wine when they gather together. The seem to be celebrating the effect of this social lubricant and the familiar ties it creates and generates.

New Yorkers To Get Wine Shipped Direct!

It looks official. The State of New York, after being told by the Supreme Court that their direct shipping laws were discriminatory and unconstitutional, will send a bill to the governor's desk that opens the State to direct shipping of wine to consumers.

Of course this is great news both for consumers and wineries. But it's also important for another reason.

New York's partner in the Supreme Court case was Michigan, where legislators will grapple with two bills, one shutting down all direct shipping of wine and another opening up Michigan to direct shipping. The New York solution will be influential up in Lansing as legislators look to see how New York chose to handle the Supreme Court ruling.

How To Kill A Wine Industry

This is the second time in just a few days I've seen wholesalers try to explain their attempts to destroy small wineries by saying "It's good for them".

In Louisiana the local liquor wholesaler association stuck a provision onto a bill concerning liquor retail outlets proximity to churches and schools. The provision states that Louisiana's wineries MUST only sell their wines through wholesalers. Its effect is that no longer could Louisiana's small wineries sell their wine directly to restaurants and retailers directly as they always have.

According to George Brown, director of the Beer Industry League of Louisiana, this legislation would protect Louisiana's wineries from out of state competition. Of course, it didn't occur to Mr. Brown, who is one of the most powerful lobbyists in the state, to ask any Louisiana wineries if they wanted this kind of protection. No one talked to the wineries or their association before dropping this little addition into the bill.

But now that it is about to get to the governor's desk, the Louisiana wineries have something to say. They are telling the Governor this legislation would essentially kill the wine industry in Louisiana.

Consider the case of Joe Cazedessus' small little winery. He makes roughly 1200 cases per year. Currently he sells 3/4 of his production directly to stores and restaurants. He sells them this wine at a wholesale price which is usually about 25% off his suggested retail price. But if he is forced now to sell this wine to a distributor first a couple things happen:

1. He must sell the wine to the wholesaler at 50% of suggested retail price
2. He loses all control over sales (who is more concerned with his brand, the owner or the wholesaler)

So Joe immediately drops 20% to 25% of his annual profit and he no longer has control of his brand.

But, Mr. Brown says this is good for Joe.

It's the same argument made by the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Association in the form of a poll question they recently ask in which they suggested that with direct shipping, Michigan wineries would be subjected to competition form "large, international corporations.": Is this good or bad," they asked. Of course, neither the poll takers or the organization that fronted for the wholesalers in contracting the poll could name any of these "large international corporations."

It's a sham. And it's a wholesale lie being pushed.

The wholesalers also argue that if they allow Louisiana wineries to sell directly to retailers and restaurateurs, then out of state wineries must be allowed to also, given the recent Supreme Court ruling that state alcohol laws cannot discriminate between in-state and out-of-state wineries. But that's a bogus claim too. The state could easily restrict wineries over a certain size from selling direct to retailers and restaurateurs and thereby protect the wholesalers and still let small wineries prosper.

But, the wholesalers, whether it's their national association (Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association) or state level associations like the "Beer League of Louisiana" have consistently shown they have no concern for small wineries, for minors or for free trade. Their only concern is for amassing profits and paying off politicians to do their bidding.

This particularly ugly episode in Louisiana, led by the particularly offensive George Brown, is just the latest example of the wholesale disregard for anyone or anything but power.

Shame on George Brown and shame on the Beer League of Louisiana, and shame on the governor of Louisiana if they sign the bill.

 

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