Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog

"Big Wine" really is BIG

Hoyt Hill, wine writer for the The City Paper, reports the following information:

--Thirty percent of the wine sold in the United States is distributed by one wholesaler, Southern Wine and Spirits, and, in the states where Southern Wine and Spirits actually does business, they distribute more than 70 percent of the wine sold?

--Approximately 80 percent of the wine produced in Australia is made by three companies? Approximately 70 percent of the wine produced in California is made by five companies? And that Foster’s is one of those three Australian companies and one of those five California companies?

--One man, Michel Rolland, is the winemaker at more than 200 wineries?

Hill has some very good suggestions for how consumers can address this "Big Wine Biz" trend.

However, It's important to point out that given the choice available on the Internet as well as in metropolitan areas, the wine drinker can easily indulge in artisan wines, rather than wines pumped out by the big boys and girls. And they should. I'm not a big business foe. Rather, I find it far more interesting, more educational ad more fun to drink from the hose of individuality than the well of homogeneity.

The Arnold Schwarzenegger of Wine

Blake Gray, the SF Chronicle's ubiquitous wine writer, made note of the fact that he's pretty sure he's tasted "Pinot Noirs" with Syrah blended into them:

"Blending up to 25 percent of a varietal different from the one on the label is already legal in the United States. I've never seen a Pinot Noir/Syrah combination listed on a front label, but I'm pretty sure I've tasted plenty of them, especially in the bargain price range."

Blake, I think, is being kind. The character of Pinot Noir has changed drastically over the past decade. I was a wine you could count on to be merely moderate in body with that intriguing nose unmistakable as anything other than Pinot. Yet today, Pinot in California often does not resemble this kind of beauty. I can't tell you how many Pinots I've tasted that I could only guess were Pinot were they served to me blind. I'm not expert taster, but I can usually identify a classic pinot simply by the process of elimination. Not any more.

Interestingly, Blake makes note of the bargain price Pinots that he's questioned. I'd reckon that I've tasted many more "high-end" Pinots that must have something hefty in them besides Pinot Noir. I've also had a few industry types confirm that this happens.

In California, as Blake points out, if it has only 75% of one variety in the wine, then that's what you call it. This bit of slight of hand reminds me of Governor Arnold in CA. While technically he is a politician, all the evidence points to him as really being an actor.

Whine, Wine, Wien

I don't get it. Do French politicians think we can't read, don't read, or do they just not care?

Jean-Claude Martinez, a politician and member of the extreme right wing French party National front from the south of France had this to say yesterday:

"We have been making wine since the Roman Empire, and not for a couple of hundred years like the Americans. Wine is a civilization, it is a fine art."

Fine art? Some of that dreg that his own constituents produce would suggest that stick figures qualify as "fine art" in the south of France.

Martinez was reacting to the provisional trade pact with Washington that, if enacted, would lead to an easing of restrictions on exporting wine to American and to the European Union.

The deal takes tentative steps to outlaw many European place-names on American wines. But it does more than that. The deal would recognize each region's winemaking practices. In the case of American wines that means the allowance for small amounts of water to the wine as well as adding oak chips to wine to flavor it, rather than using the more expensive oak barrels to add that oak essence. In the case of France, that would mean we would have no problem with wines that have sugar added to them.

The Europeans don't like this very much. They feel it puts them at a competitive disadvantage because their wine producing laws prohibit much of what we allow. So what do they do? Disparage Americans and American winemaking. I would expect that from a National Front politician. That brand of politicians is among the most retrograde on the continent...racist and xenophobic to their core.

But now we have to deal with German nincompoops (sp?) too.

Christa Klass, a leader of the European "People's Party" and representative of the Mosel region in Germany also didn't like that Americans could add oak chips and small amounts of water to wine:

"Water in wine is something which is unimaginable for us and unacceptable to our consumers We don't need artificial wine.

Most of the European wine countries, and the French in particular, are getting their hats handed to them when it comes to sales of wines. I'm not sure they really should be the ones explaining what their consumers want. The Australians should probably do that for them.

Huge over at Huge Johnson's World of Wine Blog has a good deal to say about this outburst by the European whiners. I suggest you read it. As always, Huge nails it.

If you are a wine drinker, this pact that is being worked out between the EU and America is of very little consequence. It won't really change your access to wines nor will it lead to any real change in the quality of wines your are drinking, nor the price you are paying.

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The King of Wine Chooses

If you were the Wine King of California and were tasked with dictating rules about which grape variety could be grown in different regions how would you  lay down the law?

In most area's of Europe it's hard to get away from the notion of one or two grapes defining a particular growing region. They have laws that say you must use particular grapes to put the place name on the label. In America it's different.

We put varietals on our labels here. People don't buy a "Napa Valley" and necessarily know what they are getting. They buy a Cabernet and that's what they get.

But this doesn't mean that various wine regions and appellation associations around California don't try, and try hard, to associate themselves with a particular varietal. Some areas become associated with certain varietals by default too.

How would you lay down the grape laws if you were Wine King? You may choose no more than three grapes allowed per region. Here's one fake king's response:

Anderson Valley:
Pinot is grape for which this cool region is best known, and for good reason. They locals have worked hard to promote their Pinot, but the competition for top Pinot region is tough. What they should and are doing is push equally hard for Anderson Valley to be known for Alsatian and German varietals such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling. Without question the Anderson Valley is making the best examples of these varietals in California. Problem is, you usually don't get as much for a bottle of Gewurztraminer as you do Pinot.
RULING: Pinot Noir, Gewuztraminer, Riesling

Dry Creek Valley.
They make a lot of great wines in this northern Sonoma appellation but clearly Zinfandel is king of the hill and the varietal most associated with the region. It seemed at one time that Sauvignon Blanc would become associated with Dry Creek Valley. There are still great versions made, but SB can't top Zin. And by the way, who wouldn't want to see an annual Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Conference?
RULING: Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc

Napa Valley
Everything in Napa is about Cabernet. Yes, yes. I know...lovely wines of all sorts. But Cabernet and Napa Valley are about as closely associated as Mercedes is with Benz. Interestingly, the Napa Valley Vintners have not pushed Cab as the grape of Napa Valley.
RULING: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc (some wineries secretly plant Malbec and Petit Verdot)

Russian River Valley
Clearly this large Sonoma County appellation is best known for Pinot Noir. In fact, you can make a pretty compelling argument that it is the best known Pinot Noir appellation in the world after Burgundy. Yet, the size and diversity of what is known as the Russian River Valley appellation means you've got a number of other varietals that create wines that are at the same high caliber as their Pinots. I'm thinking of Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and Petite Sirah in particular. The key to understanding Russian River Valley is understanding it's subsections. Green Valley, for example is really extraordinary Pinot country. The part of the appellation east of highway 101 is all about Zinfandel in my opinion.
RULING: Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay

Alexander Valley
Here it's mainly about Cabernet. This warm region of Sonoma County is home to the likes of Silver Oak and Jordan, two Cabernets that really helped put Sonoma County on the Cabernet map. You'll see other varietals such as Merlot, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. But if you have to pin one varietal on the region, it has to be Cabernet
RULING: Cabernet Sauvignon,  Syrah, Chardonnay

Sierra Foothills
This stunningly beautiful region doesn't get as much traffic as Sonoma and Napa. But if it did, you'd have more people appreciating its Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. But because there is not nearly as much wine being grown here as in other areas, you don't see it associated as often with these varietals.
RULING: Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc

Santa Barbara County
Pinot Noir (Thank you, "Sideways") Even before "Sideways" made its impact this region was becoming  stiff competition for Russian River Valley. The movie and the collection of artistic winemakers is making that competition. even stiffer.
RULING: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay

Monterey County
Monterey has had its ups and downs. It's a large region that originally planted huge swaths of land to Cabernet. Of course it was too cool and the region got a reputation for producing herbish tasting cab. Today the region does not have a reputation for any particular varietal. However, give it a few year and Monterey and Pinot Noir will be closely associated. There are some marvelous and serious small vintners chasing lots of Pinot in this area as well as some top notch Pinot vineyards.
RULING: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Carneros
Again, Pinot Noir...But also Chardonnay.  Carnerso is one of the original "pinot regions" and with good reason. Acacia, Carneros Creek, Saintsbury, Schug all began here with a real belief in the areas potential to grow outstanding Pinot. And they've proven this. Site selection is really key here.
RULING: Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay

Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, Mount Veeder
All the mountains surrounding Napa Valley are or should be associated with Cabernet. It's very special fruit.
RULING: Cabernet Sauvignon

Santa Cruz Mountains
Probably the best kept secret in California. Most would say that this region is all about Cabernet. And how could it not be. When you consider that a number of outstanding Caber nets come out of these hills you have no choice. Hell, the Monto Bello vineyard's existence in this area is enough to peg is a a Cabernet region.
RULING: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay

Sonoma Coast
Yes, I know, Pinot Noir. But the problem is that his "appellation" is so gigantic and diverse that you really can't say that the region as a whole is suited to any one appellation.
RULING: Free for all

Sonoma Valley
Perhaps the best know wine region after Napa Valley, yet no one varietal has become associate with this long valley to the west of Napa
RULING: Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Any White

Atlas Peak
Here you have an appellation that was once known for being a source of average Sangiovese. That reputation is slowly going away as more and more wineries produce Cabernet from the hilltop region. Give it five years and it will be all about Cabernet
RULING: Cabernet, Syrah, Chardonnay

Chalk Hill
You could argue that the region is associated with Chardonnay if only due to the fine Chardonnays that have been produced by Chalk Hill Winery. However, so little has been produced, by so few wineries, there just isn't enough to justify any particular association.
RULING: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon

Temecula
The sorry thing is that this Southern California region is mainly associated with a flying insect that devastated its vineyards. It really hasn't distinguished itself with an association with any primary grape.
RULING: I have no idea!

If I were king.....

Hey Everyone...Let's put small wineries out of business!

Rep. Chis Ward is a Michigan politician that takes contributions from the Michigan Wine & Beer Wholesalers then writes laws for them. Ward has been the lead legislator when it came to revamping Michigan's wine shipment laws in the face of that state's defeat in trying to defend its discriminatory laws with regard to shipping wine to consumers.

Ward finally sat for an interview with someone who knows wines, loves wine and sees through the blatant payoff that is the new wine shipping bill authored by the legislator.

One of the key provisions in the new Michigan bill that has not yet received passage in that state's Senate, is the prohibition on Michigan wineries from selling their wines directly to retailers and restaurateurs, as they've been able to in the past. It means that instead of selling a Chardonnay that retails for $20 to a restaurant for $15, they must sell it to a wholesaler for $10. For Michigan's mainly small, family wineries, this is a massive financial hit. The kind of hit that puts you out of business.

Why is this change in Michigan's laws necessary?

The answer is, it's not....unless you are bent on giving monopoly status to an in-state industry of wine wholesalers who in-turn, give you money for passing such a law.

In her interview with Ward, wine columnist Sandra Silfven asked about this blatant giveaway to the Michigan wine wholesalers:

Q. New York’s recent wine shipping law did not take away the right of wineries to self-distribute. Why take it away here?

A.  I don’t see how we can do this given the U.S. Supreme Court ruling, which called for equal treatment of in-state and out-of-state wineries. If there is a way that can be carved out that we won’t allow Napa Valley wineries to self-distribute here, I will take a look at it. I do have a lot of sympathy for the wineries in the state. But we have to make our laws consistent over state boundaries. Did New York allow out-of-state wineries to self-distribute, too? (Note: The answer is no. I have subsequently found out that New York wineries are the only ones that can self-distribute in that state, and it has not been challenged. – S.S.

Why is it a problem to let out-of-state wineries to "self distribute" their wines to Michigan restaurants and retailers? This is clearly the implication of Ward's comments. He simply does not explain this. But he does not have to. The idea of wineries distributing their wines themselves, bypassing wholesalers, is the single greatest fear wine wholesalers across the country have. The fear is not necessarily of smaller wineries distributing wine themselves to wine shops and restaurants around the country. Rather their fear is that the BIG BOY wineries with the means to set up such a distribution system will get into the game. And frankly, wholesalers should be afraid of this possibility. (Huge at Huge Johnson's
World of Wine covers this issue nicely)

My question is, why should they be protected from this possibility?

The Supreme Court of the United States told us that wineries that are allowed by state law to ship to its wine drinking residents must also live with the idea of out-of-state wineries shipping to their state's residents. Discrimination was unconstitutional. Many legal types have also suggested that there must be no discrimination at any level of the wine distribution if the implications of the Supreme Court decision is to be followed. So, if Michigan winery can sell and ship to a Michigan restaurant, then an out-of-state winery must be allowed to also. Or, if a Michigan retailer can ship to Michigan consumers, then out of state retailers must be allowed to also.  This analysis of the Supreme Court's decision has not been tested in any court. Though I would not be surprised if it is at some point.

Still, the issue with regard to Michigan remains: Why must Michigan's small, family wineries be put out of business to protect the large Michigan wholesalers?

While we know the answer is partly, "because the wholesalers demand this kind of protection and in fact pay for it in the form of contributions to politicians. The other explanation is the apple cart. For years now wholesalers in most states have efficiently interacted with state regulatory agencies to carry out regulations related to taxation. Many believe this is the most efficient way to achieve an well-regulated market. Is it? Or is it just a combination of tradition and well spent campaign contributions?

Knowing what I know about wine wholesalers and particularly about their trade organizations complete disrespect for anyone or anything that can't help their bottom line, I have to conclude that the new Michigan law is nothing more than payoff to the wholesaler monopoly. There is no good reason why a winery in California could not also interact well with Michigan's regulators.

Michigan's Rep. Chris Ward is a shill for the Michigan wine wholesalers. In another part of his interview with Silfven you see his duplicity in the service of this shilling:

Q. Do you feel guilty about accepting money from the Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Association, who stand to benefit from the bill you introduced?

A. No, because their original bill (banning shipping for all wineries) was rewritten to allow unlimited direct shipping to consumers. They (Michigan Beer and Wine Wholesalers Association) weren't’t happy about the changes.

Not happy? The wholesalers are getting a guarantee from the State that they will never have any competition. And they aren't happy?

The number of things wrong with Michigan's approach to regulating alcohol, and wine in particular, would take it's own separate blog to deal with (THERE'S AND IDEA). The power behind the regulating, from the legislature, to the Michigan Liquor Control Commission and hits head Nina Somona, to the wholesalers, all seem to be conspiring to put Michigan wineries out of business.

 

Wine....Haiku...Review

Writing good Haiku is not an easy task. It's much easier to communicate a message using 1000 words than using 100 words. And it's very difficult to communicate impressions with about 20 words.

This fact alone makes "The Red Wine Haiku Review" something to see.

The Red Wine Haiku Review is a wine blog that reviews wines....using Haiku. For example:

Panarroz Jumilla 2003 (Spain)
Fat luscious droplets
Another Spanish hat trick
Three grapes & five stars

or

Red Bicyclette Syrah 2002 (France)
Uncomplicated
And as fresh as a spring rain
I'm common, sue me

This approach recalls the Wine X approach to wine reviews, which clearly worked its influence throughout the wine reviewing community. Will Red Wine Haiku Review have a similar influence? Will we read more wine haiku being published? No. However, this is one fun diversion and I hope more haiku comes from the author, Lain Steinberg

An Evolution in Wine Blogging

I received an e-mail from Mark Fisher, the wine writer for the Dayton Daily News in Ohio. Mark wrote to let me know that he, though the Daily News, had launched "Yet another wine blog" they are calling "Uncorked".

It's not "just another wine blog" for a number of reasons. In fact, it's significant  for a number of reasons.

To my knowledge, "Uncorked" is the first wine blog begun by a true Main Stream Media entity. On one level this is surprising. Consumers of MSM who are also interested in wine would be among the most reliable "come-backers", those people willing to return day after day to a media product. Wine lovers tend to be relentless in pursuit of knowledge. A wine blog is a natural product for progressive MSM members to begin. Yet, this is the first.

Second, I believe UnCorked is the first blog begun by a recognized wine writer: Mark Fisher, the Dayton Daily News' wine writer. This is more understandable. Wine writers get paid to write. Giving it away isn't really what they do. While it's true that Mark is likely being paid for his efforts, it seems an important development in the world of wine blogging that a professional wine writer has taken it up.

But to the important stuff: Mark's very good at communicating his passion for wine with words and UnCorked clearly deserves a place on your newsreader or in your book marks. His most recent post is a great one: "Top Ten Reasons Wine is Better than Beer". My favorite reason: You've never heard of a "Wine Belly."

Uncorked has a lot going for it. It has the power of a publishing house behind it. It has a wonderful writer and passionate wine lover behind it, and Mark seems dedicated to posting on a very regular basis.

Mark Fisher's Uncorked....Check it out.

Weekly FERMENTED Wine Links

WEEKLY FERMENTED WINE LINKS -- SEPTEMBER 22, 2005
A Weekly Digest of Wine Links Old and New Worth Pursuing

A Short History of the Corkscrew
Comes with cool drawings

What Are "Old Vines"
Staying with the historical theme, we have an interesting article from Ridge Vineyards on the nature of Old Vines.

Need Wine Grapes of Juice? Here's Your List of What's Available
Winebusiness.com's listing of grapes available for purchase

Winery For Sale
Now that you've got grapes, you'll need a winery. Here's one.

Pinot's California Roots and Terroir
Steve Pitcher's excellent 1999 article on great Pinot ground in CA, published in WINE NEWS

Where Do Wine Grapes Come From?
Saintsbury's David Graves Talks to Viticultural Hero Carole Meredith about wine grapes' origins (warning: Saintsbury is a Wark Communications Client)

An Academic View of Wine Ratings
MIT Professors Digs Deep Into Wine Ratings (Attention: Deep stuff)

Wine Advertising: What's Right, What's Wrong
The Wine Institute's Code of Advertising Standards

Wine Slogans
Going Beyond: "We Will Serve No Wine..."...A compendium of wine slogans

Wine Blog of the Week — "Winery Website Report"
Mike Duffy Dishes up great ideas and thoughts and services for wineries concerned with the state of their website.

Grape Ripeness, Flavor and the 2005 CA Vintage

I've always envied Dan Berger's insightful mind. Clearly one of America's best wine writers, he is also one of the writers willing to address the complex and often controversial subjects. He most often does this via his weekly newsletter, "Vintage Experiences," a must for any serious student of wine or anyone in the wine business.

Dan doesn't disappoint with his last issue that arrived via email this morning. In the latest issue, Dan asks if vintners will pass their own test during what is turning out to be a challenging 2005 Harvest. To-date, sugar levels in the grapes are unusually low for this time of year. This is due to the relatively low temperatures we've seen this summer. September has been unusually cold with only a few days in September rising above 80 degrees.

This is a problem for the generation of vintners in California who have been preaching that high sugar levels and physiological maturity go hand in hand, a theory that underpins many vintners decisions to wait until the grapes are ultra ripe before picking and thereby delivering staggering alcohol levels in their wines along with what many understand as prunny flavors.

Dan however points out that science tells us that flavor maturity comes at a much lower sugar level and that the real reason many vintners wait until the grapes are ultra-ripe is to "ripen-out" any hint of herbal flavors in the wine.

In any case, Dan points out that for that level of ripeness to be achieved this year vintners will probably have to wait until late November to pick. Anyone ever look into the eyes of a vintner or grower whose crop is still hanging on the vine on November 1st? It's pretty scary. The threat of rain, and with it the potential of complete destruction of the crop, is always there. These vintners have a deer in the headlights look about them. They stare up into the sky. They pray a lot.

Will vintners wait that long to capture their high levels of sugar? Can the sugars even get that height if they choose to wait? Or will they give into the mindset that controlled the CA wine industry for decades and pick at lower sugar levels?

If you are not a subscriber to Vintage Experiences,become one. It's $58 per year for 48 weekly issues. Dan's articles and this one in particular are important

Sonoma Wine Awards

One of Sonoma County's really great wine events is the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The fair itself is a 3 day event beginning September 30. However, it's the Harvest Fair Award Night Gala Celebration on September 24 that is the real wing ding.

Wineries from across the county set up tables and pour, pour, pour and pour some more. They pour those wines they've entered in the accompanying wine competition. However, they have no idea if any of the wines they are pouring have won any medals. About half way through the pouring the lights go down and the overhead screen lights up thereby commencing with the announcement of the awards for Gold, Best of Class awards and Sweepstakes Winners.

Vintners and attendees, many dressed to the nines, wait and watch, anxiously. For the vintners it's important. The Best of Class, Sweepstakes and many of the Gold medal winners receive a real boost in sales as a result of the medals and awards mainly because so many Sonoma retailers heavily support them. For attendees, the awards are a chance to taste on the spot the best of Sonoma County.

The awards presentation also include recognition of the best breads, jams, culinary creations and other food products, most of which are also sampling at the Gala Awards Night.

This is really a fantastic event. Check out the website to see if tickets are still available.