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Wine IS Art

Art1
If you've ever doubted that wine is, or can be, art then consider these results from Acker Merrall's latest wine auction:

6 magnums 1971 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $136,275.00

12 bottles 1962 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $118,500.00

12 bottles 1961 Chateau Latour a Pomerol Pomerol $118,500.00

6 magnums 1978 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $112,575.00

12 bottles 1971 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $106,650.00

6 magnums 1961 Chateau Latour a Pomerol Pomerol $106,650.00

6 magnums 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc St. Emilion $94,800.00

12 bottles 1962 La Tache Domaine de la Romanee Conti $88,875.00

12 bottles 1978 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $88,875.00

6 magnums 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Pauillac $82,950.00

12 bottles 1961 Chateau Lafleur Pomerol $77,025.00

12 bottles 1961 Chateau Petrus Pomerol $77,025.00

12 bottles 1962 Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Comte de Vogue $73,470.00

12 bottles 1962 Chambertin A. Rousseau $71,100.00

12 bottles 1947 Chateau Petrus Pomerol $71,100.00

12 bottles 1961 Chateau Petrus Pomerol $71,100.00

6 magnums 1961 Chateau Petrus Pomerol $71,100.00

2 magnums 1962 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $65,175.00

1 Methuselah 1971 Romanee Conti Domaine de la Romanee Conti $65,175.00

12 bottles 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Pauillac $65,175.00

12 bottles 1947 Chateau Lafleur Pomerol $65,175.00

6 bottles 1923 La Tache Liger-Belair $59,250.00

3 magnums 1962 La Tache Domaine de la Romanee Conti $59,250.00

Numerous records were broken during the weekend long auction of what was, apparently, one owner's considerable cellar. Many of these prices reflect not the high bidders' taste in wine, but rather their investment proclivities. The same can be said of many auction purchases of traditional fine arts that appear on canvas rather than in glass. Remember the majority of the "art" that hangs on walls in homes around the world is virtually worthless except for the pleasure it offers the owner. The same can be said for wine. However, as food products go, you don't see cheeses or beer or candy canes going at auction for $100,000. There is something about wine.

ZAP Views

I had hoped to take more shots of this year's event, but as usual I got involved in tasting and talking. However, a few were taken.

Crowd1





This was early...when the crowd was..small.











Crowd2









The crowd grows and grows and grows







Darryl



Darryl Roberts, Publisher of Wine X Magazine hosted the Jelly Belly Tasting bar. Combine different beans, shoot them all at once, chew for 20 seconds, then experience the taste of Zin from different regions. Darryl is actually a very shy, restrained guy.










Jellybeanbar







FERMENTATION publisher trying to figure out how to combine the right beans to create a a "Sonoma Valley Zinfandel".








Bald






One of the few "Bald Guys" at this year's Zap Tasting. A big change from previous year's event.










Mayoglass





See that drip on the wine info sheet? I did that.












Ravenswood






Your reporter going through the Ravenswood 04 Barrel Samples. The "Old Hill" and "Teldeschi" were beautiful.









Deer
















That "Doe in the Headlights" look that overtakes many a pourer at ZAP.

Colorado Wine...coming your way

Coloradovineyard

Colorado appears to be ready to pass a law allowing liberal direct shipping privlidges to in-state and out-of-state wineries.

What You Need To Know About Colorado Wine

The Wineman's Take On Colorado Wine

The Colorado Wine Fest: Get Ready


Zinfandel Advocates & Producers--ZAP Tasting

Last Saturday Zinfandel lovers and wine enthusiasts gathered in obscenely large numbers for the annual ZAP tasting in San Francisco. The "walk around" tasting is surely the largest of its type. A number of impressions were left upon this attendee.

1. The Urge to Devour
There is an overwhelming urge to taste and see everything when you are confronted with these many wineries all in one place. Something of an "open bar" mentality takes over that at once is very exciting, yet also appears to compel people to move from one winery table to the next is rapid succession, as though they will be penalized for not tasting everything.

2. Hopes, Dreams and the New
I saw a number of wineries that I'd never heard of before, all hoping for many things. Most were small operations, family wineries, that were looking for exposure, distribution, anything. It reminds one of a dog show, where the animals are at their best, yet telling one big greyhound from the next is not all that easy. And the dog owners know it. So, they hope for some sort of a big break. Zinfandel is still a good "entry level" wine for the new, micro winery. The grapes usually cost less than Cabernet or Pinot; there is a cultish quality to Zinfandel that means you might become a darling. Yet in setting where your new Zinfandel is competing against hundreds of other Zinfandels, ZAP may not be the best place to launch a cult, thought there are worse places.

3. My Favorite Zins (in no order)
02 ZAP Heritage Vineyards (made by Paul Draper)
03 Highlands Beatty Ranch, Howell Mountain
04 J Benton Furrow "Heart of Gold" Shenandoah Valley
04 Karmere Vineyards "Empress Hayley", Shenandoah Valley
03 Limerick Lane, Collins Vineyard, Russian River Valley
03 Loxton Cellars, Hillside, Sonoma Valley
04 Macchi Winery "Mischievous", Old Vine, Lodi
04 Ravenswood Old Hill, Sonoma Valley (Barrel Sample)
04 Ravenswood Teldeschi, Dry Creek Valley (barrel sample)
03 Bucklin, Old Hill, Sonoma Valley
02 Renwood "Old Vine", Amador County
03 William Talty Estate, Dry Creek Valley
03 Trinitas "Old Vine" Contra Costa County
04 Valdez Family, Rockpile Road Vineyard, Rockpile
04 XYZin, 100 years, Contra Costa County
03 Z-52. Clockspring Vineyard, Old Vine, Amador Country

4. Big O4s
The O4 Vintage seems to be a pretty big vintage. Extracted, high alcohol, and many being sweet. Lots of prune flavors, lots of dark red fruit flavors. It was very difficult to find a "claret" styled zin in this vintage, thought that may be more a reflection of winemaking styles than the vintage.

5. Deer in the Headlights
While it's not easy to maneuver through this kind of huge tasting, it's particularly diffiuclt for the people behind the tables. Many, after a few hours, simply have a "Deer in the headlights" look about them. The constant pouring, the push of people to get at your wine, the barrage of questions can be crushing. One winery owner I observed was moving from glass to glass to glass, pouring, talking with three people at the same time, then, in what was a mistake, stepped back and looked out over the heads of those crowding her table. She stopped. She stared out at people three deep at her table and then began scanning the crowd beyond. All she could see was a sea of heads, moving and shuffling about. I thought the drinkers were going to mutiny. Some looked around to see what she was looking at, but I know they didn't see the same thing. The winemaker's sigh was visible. And she returned to three conversations and the hands holding wine glasses being thrust at her.

6. Logistics
Never, ever try to park at the Fort Mason Center where the tasting is held unless you get a spot the night before. Park somewhere else in the city, then take a cab or a bus. Parking is horrendous.

7. No Senior Moments
I know well-made Zinfandel can age into something different,something beyond a jumpy fruit bomb. Yet, finding any well aged zin at this tasting is not possible. This is a shame. What a service it would be to some how demonstrate to the multitude that Zin can work its way into something complex and and refined and interesting with age. But this is not what consumers appear to want. Certainly that's not what members of the trade attending ZAP are looking for. I rather doubt that consumers are either. And this explains why such wines made no appearance. Still, a shame.

Weekend Links

WEEKEND LINKS
January 28, 2006

Keeping All Markets Open Best For Illinois Wineries

The Wine Region You Need To Know


In Honor of ZAP: Zins At Auction

The Great Pinot Noir Showdown: Chapter 4

The Great One..Listen, Learn, Swoon

Vote To Ban Bad Wine Words & Cliches

Who's Blogging Wine?

Getting Up There in Age

California Wine Shots

Blog of The Week: Quaffability

Sponsors Toast

A Toast To FERMENTATION Sponsors

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K & L WINE MERCHANTS
Click Here to check out the latest arrivals at K&L (It looks like Cain Five, one of the classic Napa ageables is back on the shelves)

MAYO FAMILY RESERVE ROOM
A recent article described the Mayo Reserve Room this way: "The in-depth approach here might spoil people for other tastings - and it's one of the best deals in the Wine Country."

LENNE ESTATE
Oregon Premium Vineyard and Winery Selecting Partners

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A Primer on the Wine Wars

In at least four states, politicians are debating whether or not wine distributors are so special that they ought to be favored at the expense of small wineries. In many cases the consequences of the outcome of the debate will determine if small wineries stay in business or are dismantled so that wine distributors might make more money and have complete control over wine distribution.

A Primer on the Wine Wars
...and how to fight them

Wineries have three ways of selling their wine to consumers:

1. Sell to you directly either at a tasting room or shipping the wine to you
2. Selling their wine to retailers and restaurants where consumers buy it
3. Selling their wine to distributors, who then sell to retailers or restaurants where consumers buy it

Roughly...
If the winery's retail price on a wine is $20 per bottle they make $20 using method #1.
If the winery's retail price on a wine is $20 per bottle they make $15 using method #2
If the winery's retail price on a wine is $20 per bottle they make $10 using method #3

The fundamental question that will play out in nearly every State over the next few years is:
Is it in the State's interest to prohibit wineries from utilizing methods #1 and #2?

Currently there are serious political moves afoot in Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Virginia to force wineries to only use distributors in selling their wines. And yet, in not one of these cases is anyone advocating this framework for sales other than the wine distributors and the politicians they have purchased via campaign contributions.

The implications for small wineries if these corrupt legislative initiatives succeed are stunning and permanent.

Consider the 5,000 case winery that sells its wines 1/3 via direct to consumer, 1/3 via direct to retail and 1/3 via distributor. If they sell their wines at an average of $20 per bottle the wineries gross revenue would be $891,000. Forced by legislation to change and sell everything via distributor their gross revenue is reduced by nearly $300,000 annually to $600,000. And this doesn't take into consideration the fact that distributors rarely focus on small wineries in the way that small wineries can focus on themselves. The wineries would still have to hire an outside salespeople to sell the wine for the distributor so the distributor can take the order and deliver. And then of course, there is no guarantee that any distributor will choose to represent the small, 5000 case winery.

Every state will eventually have to deal with the issue of how wineries sell their wine. The U.S Supreme Court said that sales of wine must be equal for in-state and out of -state wineries. In most states wineries are allowed to sell direct to retailers (method 2), yet out of state wineries are prohibited from doing this. Recently a federal judge in Washington State confirmed that the U.S Supreme Court's 2005 ruling on the need for equality in direct to consumers sales also applies to sales to the trade (retailers and restaurateurs).

Distributors will and have claimed that if wineries in CA are allowed to ship direct to retailers in other states, it will mean the demise of the three tier distribution system and put may distributors out of business. They are only partially correct. What will happen is wholesalers will see their revenues reduced. However, wholesale distribution will remain the most common way wine gets to market because it's particularly efficient when it comes to large brands. However, they will lose market share to some wineries who choose to sell direct, bypass the wholesaler and find other ways to get their wines to restaurants and retailers.

Distributors feel as though they are fighting for their commercial lives. What's actually happening is they are reacting in a paranoid fashion that results from years of living under a state-imposed near monopoly framework. Quite simply, they are not thinking straight or creatively. Instead, they are forgoing subtlety and demanding the politicians they've paid off over the years introduce and support legislation that will protect them while destroying the wineries they currently make little or no money on. It is cynical, not to mention corrupt.

Consider Virginia. In reaction to a bill that would have leveled the playing field and allow all wineries across the country to sell and ship wine directly to the retailers and restaurants, the wholesalers have helped write and gotten introduced a bill that would completely prohibit Virginia's and all other wineries in the United states from selling and delivering wine directly to retailers and restaurants.

The legislator who introduced this bill is David B. Albo.   Since 2001, Albo has been one of the leading beneficiaries of campaign contributions by the Virginia Wine Wholesalers Association (VWWA). Between 2001 and 2005 Albo ranked as the VWWA's...

#2 top top target for campaign contributions in the VA Assembly in 2005
#2 top top target for campaign contributions in the VA Assembly in 2004
#10 top top target for campaign contributions in the VA Assembly in 2003
#4 top top target for campaign contributions in the VA Assembly in 2002
#2 top top target for campaign contributions in the VA Assembly in 2001

In 2005 alone Albo campaign contributions from VA wine and beer distributors was double that of any other industry.

As an industry, alcohol wholesalers have dominated the campaign contribution game in Virginia since 2001 and beyond. Since 2001, the alcohol distribution industry has donated more than $2.55 million to political candidates. This figure dwarfs even the second leading industry.

In 2005 the VWWA donated $165,000 to political candidates and pacs in Virginia. By contrast, the winery supported PAC, VA Vines & Wines Pac, donated a total of $8650 to political candidates and Pacs, including $250 to David Albo. VWWA gave $6,500 to Albo in 2005.

(All figures from the Virginia Public Access Project)

The formula here is clear. Wineries around the country cannot compete with distributors when it comes to buying politicians. They simply do not have the the coin.

The only weapon in their arsenal to fight the largess of the wholesale tier is the moral high ground and the sympathy of nearly every person who reads or hears about how they are being treated both by the political system and wholesalers. Without utilizing this one advantage it is likely that within five years the majority of states will have followed the money and enacted legislation that puts wineries at the mercy of the distributors' whims, prejudice, money and incompetence.

How to Beat Back The Wholesalers
If wineries and their supporters are to beat back the wholesalers' assault on their ability to make and sell wine for a profit they must marshall public opinion against the the wholesalers and the corrupting nature of campaign contributions.

Step One: Develop An Organizational Structure
In Michigan wineries and consumers created "Wine CAM, an organization that was designed to fight anti-winery legislation and act as the agent for relations with citizens and the press. They were very successful for a number of reasons. Most important was WINE CAM gave media a central place to go for information on the battle and to find spokespeople. In many states such a task might fall to the wineries' own association. Either way, a central clearinghouse for information and media relations is critical. It is important that however this organization is run that consumers be brought in and given a voice too.

Step 2: Gather Information
In nearly every state, campaign contribution information is publicly accessible on-line. It is critical to be able to demonstrate the money trail between distributors and politicians who are doing their bidding. Gathering campaign contribution information on sponsors of anti-winery legislation is the first step. The information must then be culled, sorted and organized to show in stark fashion the connection between distributor money and anti-winery legislative activities.

Along the lines of gathering information, it is key to develop a profile of the states' wineries. In nearly every state outside CA wineries are family-owned. They tend to be small. They tend to be owned by people who work hard in the dirt, in the winery and in the market. And few are making a fortune. In short, a profile of the state's wine industry should be created that allows the media and residents of the state to both sympathize and relate to the winery owners while at the same time contrasting the winery to the hulking behemoth that is the state's wine distribution industry.

3. Carefully Craft Your Message & Argument
It's not enough to simply have gathered and arranged information. It must be packaged into a compelling and simple message. This means being able to combat the distributor's message machine also. Thankfully, the distributors are generally very bad at delivering a coherent, compelling message that the media and consumer can sympathize with . Nevertheless, their message needs to be combatted.

Wholesalers generally offer only two arguments to support their desire for legislation that would prohibit wineries from selling directly to retailers and restaurants: 1) tax collection is more orderly when a wholesaler monopoly is instituted, 2) the three tier system is what the state had in mind when it re-regulated sales after the end of Prohibition. Both these arguments can be easily addressed by demonstrating that wineries already collect and remit taxes and by simply explaining that the three tier system of wine distribution is not being dismantled when wineries sell directly to the trade.

More important than combatting the distributors crude message is pro-actively delivering the pro-farmer, pro-business message of the wineries. This has to be done by pointing out the devastation that would be done to the state's small family wineries if self-distribution to retailers and restaurants is denied. Concrete examples of how wineries will fail must be crafted.

Finally, the "David v.Corrupt Goliath" message should be crafted that demonstrates how an unfair, money-driven favoritism is the only thing that has led to the proposed legislation that would put wineries out of business.

Step 4: Deliver Your Message

Very simply, this amounts to putting the well-crafted message in front of the media and consumer. Websites need to be created and materials that make the wineries case need to be printed. Press releases highlighting various aspects of the wineries' messaging should be delivered to reporters, wine writers, editorial boards and managing editors on a regular basis as the legislative battle progresses. Letter writing campaigns aimed at both the legislators and the media should be created utilizing the mailing list of the wineries. Demonstrations on the capital steps need to organized. Alliances between other organizations of small business should be developed. Letters to the editor should be sent on a regular basis from both winery owners and consumers. Whenever a ridiculous statement by a wholesaler representative or legislator is made, a press release should be issued that disputes the statement and reiterates the wineries' own messaging. Finally, the paramount message, in every communication, must be the ownership of the legislator by the wholesalers and the resulting demise of small, family-owned wineries.

Many wineries looking at this plan will respond with, "how much time do you think we have on our hands? We are just two or three people at each winery running a small business."

I sympathize with that. However, if you these small wineries do not prepare to fight this battle smartly they will find they have lots of time on their hands.







Drinking & Eating with Ben and Tom

Bentom Every now and then you come across a book that you assume was written specifically for your eyes. It appeals to your past, your aspirations, your education, your occupation. That's how I felt about
"An Evening with Benjamin Franklin & Thomas Jefferson: Dinner, Wine & Conversation"
  by James Gabler.

Many of your will be familiar with Gabler due to his last work, "Passions: The Wines & Travels of Thomas Jefferson," winner of the 1995 "Veuve Clicquot Wine Book of the Year" award. Now Gabler delivers a new work that once again has history as its focus but also spends a good deal of time focused on one of his own passions, wine.

The premise is simple: A historian is catapulted back in time via a dream and placed on the doorstep of Thomas Jefferson's home in Paris. There are no time travel mechanics, alternative histories or black holes to consider in the historian's travel back. You simply suspend disbelief because doing so gets you to the red meat of Gabler's book: The chance to talk to Jefferson and Franklin with the knowledge of what came after them.

Gabler's new book is remarkable on a number of levels. First, you have to understand that the title is an accurate reflection of the book's content. Yet, while the book is "fiction" it is also pure non-fiction all the way down to the more than 800 footnotes and the fact that much of what Franklin and Jefferson say to our historian are their own words, preserved in various letters and sources and faithfully reproduced in the appropriate conversations Gabler creates. But it is also a speculative book insofar as throughout Gabler has both Jefferson and Franklin reacting to news of what has transpired in the 200 or so years since they died. Still with me?

You really must know my own background to appreciate why this book is such a thrilling one for me. Around 1988 I decided to get a masters degree in history. I was one of those fellows who sought out a higher degree merely because I didn't get enough of college by the time I was awarded my BA. My subject was history, specifically American history. While indulging myself in a MA in History I focused more specifically on American Diplomatic History. Luckily, the University I attended offered one of the top professors in the country who specialized generally in American Diplomatic History and the Historiography of American Diplomacy.

One of the areas I spent a good deal of time studying was the diplomatic history and the foreign affairs of the Revolutionary period, that era covered in "An Evening..". At about the very same time in my life I was completely taken by wine and began to study it liberally. By the time I got my MA and realized that I didn't want a PhD, I had chosen to look into working in the wine industry.

So as you can see, Gabler's "historical fiction" with its focus on the American Revolutionary period as well as substantially on wine is something I might jump into feet first.

That said, "An Evening..." is largely a reminiscence. It is not a critical biography. It does not cast a sharp eye on Jefferson and Franklin with the truly modern goal of deconstructing their hypocrisies or foibles. Rather, Gabler has created a portrait of Jefferson and Franklin at rest, comfortable, looking back on where they've been, what they've learned, the things they regret and the pleasures they experienced and sought out. There is nothing defensive in this work. It is a long, comfortable and deeply interesting conversation with two very worldly men of the 18th century.

Did they drink wine in the 18th century, these worldly men, these radicals, these revolutionaries?

In discussing his 1787 tour of Burgundy, Jefferson relates to our time traveling historian:

"Arriving in the ancient town of Beaune on March 8, I lodged at Chez Dion a L'Ecu de France and promptly hired Etienne Parent, a cooper and wine merchant, as a guide to the vineyards of Pommard, Volnay, Montrachet and Meursault. As I mentioned earlier, Parent and I became friends, and he became my Burgundian wine counselor. Parent took me to the vineyards of Monsieur de la Tour, and it was here that I was introduced to the most expensive dry wine of Burgundy. My tasting confirmed Parent's  opinion and I ordered 125 bottles of 1782 Montrachet."

Throughout the book we are treated to descriptions of Burgundy, Bordeaux the Rhone, Champagne and other wine producing regions that our heroes encountered throughout their lives. And we are also offered tales of drinking as well as wine reviews. Describing his encounter with white Hermitage while in the village of Tain, Jefferson tells Franklin the drink was "the first wine in the world, without a single exception:

"it was not entirely dry. It was what I call silky, and when I use the term silky I do not mean sweet, but sweetish in the smallest degree only."

The liberties that Gabler takes with his subject's minds and recollections are grounded in the historical record. Yet, Gabler's own voice is also delivered through the words of Jefferson and Franklin. Gabler is  clearly an optimist and a man of principle who believes much of the wisdom that our country might posses was best expressed in the acts of revolutionaries and country-makers like Franklin and Jefferson.

One is not required to have a post-graduate degree in history to appreciate this book. There is no jargon to sift through. Yet it distills a great deal of research and scholarship in a way that can be appreciated by the average reader  and particularly by the wine lover who knows the meaning of wine is found as much in the past as in the present.

Finally, if you need a 90+ point review from a famed wine critic to convinced this is the book for you, Robert Parker, Jr. said:

"An Evening with Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson: Dinner, Wine, and Conversation " is a brilliant roman a clef around wine and the lives and travels of Thomas Jefferson and Ben Franklin. This is a marvelously enlightening book for both historians and wine enthusiasts."


An Evening with Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson:
Dinner Wine and Conversation

By James Gabler
Published by Bacchus Press on January 17, 2006, the 300th anniversary of Benjamin Franklin's Birth

The Underrated, Great Growing Region

Scm Many years ago I headed up a statistical study of the "Wine Spectator's Palate". I looked at scores, appellations, price, etc. And this was before the days of the Internet when cut and paste made such inquiries much easier.

However, the most interesting piece of information gleaned from the study, done around 1995, was that the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation wines reviewed by the Spectator received the highest average scores on an appellation by appellation basis.

Today the SF Chronicle Wine Section takes a taste of Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnays. Among the best are the Ridge and the Mount Eden Vineyard Chards. I can attest to the quality of the Ridge Chardonnays. Although best known for their Zins and blends and Monte Bello Red, one of the best Chardonnays Ive ever put in my mouth was their Monte Bello Chardonnay.

It's nice to see this appellation getting attention

Does Too Much Wine Give You Gas?

Gas


If you ever wanted confirmation that Australia is producing too many grapes, then here it is. "Grapes to Gas" appears the mantra for today as one of the methods of dealing with overproduction of wine grapes in that country.

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