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The Great Pinot Noir Event

The International Pinot Noir Celebration is the grandaddy of American Pinot events. It's also the best wine fest I've been to. This year's IPNC is the 20th. I put out this announcement fairly early because the event always sells out fast.

The IPNC is held at Linfield College in McMinnville in Oregon near the Willamette Valley. It's a beautiful location surrounded by vineyards and wineries. But it's the tone of the festival that has always struck folks who attend. Those who attend have always had a very special love for the grape and the wines it makes. As a result there is a real camaraderie that exists among participants.

The events are always first rate. This year speakers will include Remington Norman--author of "The Great Domaines of Burgundy", Richard Sanford--founder of Sanford Winery and Leslie Sbrocco--Author of "Wine  For Women." Events include Burgundy Seminars, New World Pinot Noir seminars, winery luncheons, the always amazing Grand Dinner and the famed Northwest Salmon Bake.

If you want to go or are just interested I suggest you check out the International Pinot Noir Celebration website and get your money in quick. They limit participation and tickets go quick.

The Classic American (wine) Road Trip

Road Show me one wine blogger who wouldn't want to do THIS .

Taj James, the blogger behind "Cork & Demon Wine Blog" is ready to embark on a wine blogging road trip she's appropriately named, "The Cork & Demon Western Wine Tour 2006".

The idea? Travel through as many western U.S. wine areas talking to wine people and live blogging it. She explains, "I'm in search of America's finest Wine People.  People at all levels of winemaking, selling and growing, who love what they do for more than just the money it brings."

I'm hoping she blogs often. These days it isn't so hard to find WiFi access in some cafe.

The tradition of the "American Road Trip" is cemented in our culture in the form of literature and film and song. Now..blogs, with a wine twist. It's really a great story in and of itself that I hope the mainstream wine media, or even the regular wine media, will pick up on and write about here and there.

You can follow Taj on her Western Wine Tour by subscribing to her RSS Feed. I did. She leaves tomorrow.

Hit the road, Taj!

Big Balls

Balls Sometimes you have to wonder how wine wholesalers can even walk straight given the enormous size of their balls.

This from a press release issued yesterday by the Indiana Wine & Spirit Wholesalers:

"Under their special niche within the regulatory structure of Indiana's three-tier system, farm wineries in Indiana had enjoyed a special status (being allowed to sell direct to consumers and retailers)."

"Special Niche"?  "Special Status"?

This from the wine wholesalers who have the most special of niches and most special and lucrative of statuses of perhaps any industry in Indiana. By state mandate, EVERY bottle of wine sold in Indiana must first go through the wholesalers hands. And the wineries have a "special niche" and "special status" because they are able to sell wine direct out of their tasting rooms?

This kind of attitude falls under the heading of "The Bizarre Way In Which The Wine Wholesaler Brain Works."

Just as I suspected, the wine wholesalers in Indiana are continuing a fairly feeble PR push with the idea that they can make the Indiana wineries look like bullies. They've issued a press release in which they "offer" to withdrawal their own litigation in the state (that seeks to keep in place a rule found to be illegally issued by the state's top alcohol commissioner stopping wineries from shipping wine direct) if the wineries will only stop all wine shipping related litigation ACROSS THE COUNTRY...of which the Indiana wineries have absolutely no control over.

Again, how do these multi billion dollar wholesalers who already are mandated by the state to have control of the entire alcoholic beverage distribution industry manage to waddle around with balls as big as their inflated heads?

You Are What You Terroir

Dirtred
Ken Garret has an interesting article in the Australian paper The Courier-Mail in which Terroir is the topic. Early on, Garret goes on about the various ways terroir is defined and it struck me in reading that one can tell a lot about the person by understanding how they define "Terroir".

Consider the following definitions of Terroir...and what they tell us about the Definer

1. Real Terroir Only Exists in France
Meaning: They own a French Vineyard or only drink French wine

2. Terroir is all about the soils and little else
Meaning: They have a piece of land they want to claim has the "best terroir"

3. Terroir includes all the natural influences on a vineyard including climate, soils and aspect.
Meaning: They own a vineyard or winery in the "New World" and want the entire world to know that great terroir can be found anywhere...especially in the New World.

4. "Terroir" means the entire "spirit" of the place where the grapes are grown
Meaning: "The history and culture of my region is more interesting than yours."

5. Terroir encompass not just "Mother Nature" but the impact of the grower and winemaker too.
Meaning: I'm not sure "terroir" even exists to the extent that it matters

6. Terroir is that "taste of place" one finds in unique wines
Meaning: That's not a flaw you taste in my wine, it's the "gout de terroir"

What's the point?

In most cases the point is that "terroir" is much more than a concept. It is a marketing tool for wineries and regions, it is a tool of the chauvinist, it is a tool of the publicist, and it is the excuse some use to explain away poor winemaking or vineyard management.

In the end, I think "terroir" only matters if you can taste it over and over, vintage after vintage; if you can use it to explain why wine from one vineyard or small region ALWAYS has a particular character. If  terroir can't explain this, then I'm not sure it matters at all...regardless of the definition you give it.

Best Reason To Get Into The Wine Business

Barrel_room The reason you want to get into the wine business is not to enjoy the sun on your back as you walk through your vineyard, not to help educate people about wine from a well-stocked shop and not to produce wine in your own vision.

The reason you want to be in the wine business is to be able to attend the "Premier Napa Valley Tasting and Auction".

Held last Saturday at the Culinary Institute of America Greystone in St. Helena, Premier Napa Valley is one of the most fascinating tastings in California. The event is designed to raise funds for the Napa Valley Vintners association. Each participating winery creates a unique blend, something that simply doesn't get released to the public. They make 5 to 20 cases worth. The tasting puts these wines on display then they are auctioned off. The event is limited to members of the trade, mainly retailers, restaurants and wholesalers.

This is the Napa Valley event where the more famous as well as more obscure wineries take part. They are all looking not merely to help out their association, but to meet and make contacts with people in the business. The wineries take it very seriously.

Wineries pour "reserve" wines that are made from the best barrel of Cabernet, from the most interesting parcel of their vineyards, from blends they don't normally create. Essentially, you get to taste wines of tremendous quality and uniqueness. Interestingly, you don't see many members of the media at this tasting, probably because they know the wines they taste will never be offered to the public. So what's the point?

This year 181 wineries offered lots that eventually were sold for a record $1.87 million. A brief rundown of the auction lots can be found at this link.
Bidding
This is the second time I've been to Premier Napa Valley. The first time was as a bidder while I was working as Director of Communications for Winebid.com. This time I was behind a barrel, working on behalf of a client who was pouring at the event. It's a very different perspective, but fascinating nonetheless.

No matter what kind of tasting you pour at you are always wondering who you are talking to. At large events such as Family Winemakers Tasting the odds are much smaller that you are talking to a decision maker. Still, you look at the badge they are wearing to have some idea of what the context of the encounter you are engaged in. At Premier Napa Valley nearly everyone who attends is the decision maker who comes with dollars and power in hand. You simply pay closer attention to who is tasting your wine.

I stood all day across the aisle from Ed Sbragia of Beringer ands next to Tony Soter of Etude. It was fascinating to actually watch people "pay homage" to these two giants of Napa Valley. They are creations of their own talent and expertise as well as the "star winemaker" system that was a huge factor in marketing wine back in the 1990s than it is today. Yet, it is fascinating to listen to people approach "star winemakers" that truly helped define wine for them.

Finally, the setting for the tasting is magnificent. The barrel room at Greystone where the tasting takes place is dark, cool, home to great old wine casks and easy to maneuver. You could never mistake it for anything other than a place of wine.

Follow your conviction...in wine AND FOOD.

Farmers If you believe in the idea of a community-based economy in food, in farmers markets, in finding a way to help support this important source of hand grown foods, then you need to take a quick glance at Adam Mahler's post at Untangled Vine in which he reports on the move among some Representatives in Washington D.C. to help the Farmer's Market Movement.

Adam has the background on the bill and it appears he'll be delivering more information in the form of interviews with the Representative that has introduced the bill.

What can be done to help encourage the development of more farmers markets as well as the success of those that currently exist is important to know. They represent a critical outlet for the few remaining, but growing, corps of devoted people who want to deliver fresh, unique, organic foods to the American table.

Here in Sonoma Valley and in Sonoma County as a whole we are very lucky. We have a wonderful network of farmers markets that take place nearly year round and in just about ever city in the country. In the Town of Sonoma alone we have two per week. The beauty of these events is not just in the remarkable produce and products that one has access to. It is a community event where you get to see your neighbors outside the context of a "drive by hello".

The Indiana Wine Dance

There must be a number of managing editors at Indiana newspapers that are somewhat pissed off. By no fault of their own they are having to update the direct shipping story in their state in such a way that makes them look like they got it wrong.

One day after a closely-watched and heavily attended committee meeting took place in the Indiana Legislature and a compromise on the direct shipping issue between Indiana wineries and the wine wholesalers was accomplished, the president of the Indiana Senate killed the pending legislation. The move effectively ends any possibility of a conclusion to the bitter shipping battle in Indiana until at least January of next year.

On February 23, the Indianapolis Star ran a story under this headline:
"Bill altered to allow wine shipping"

Not more than a few hours later, they ran this one:
"Wine-shipping legislation goes sour"

There is some real "insiders baseball" going on in Indiana right now.  And it's hard to really understand who is pushing which agenda. For same reason, Sen. Robert Garton, the President of the Indiana Senate killed the compromise legislation that would have allowed any winery in country to sell direct to Indiana retailers, a right only Indiana wineries have had. It was not a perfect compromise, but it did represent a good deal of work and politics by  a lot of interested parties. And if you are wondering, Garton appears to have accepted no or very little in the way of campaign contributions from wine wholesalers.

Garton claimed he just learned that there was pending litigation on the issue and announced the Indiana Legislature tries not to impose on the judiciary's duty. It's highly unlikely that the existence of pending legislation was only just discovered by Garton. Hell, I knew about it and I live in California.

Without addressing the issue of which branch of government should take the lead in addressing concerns of the state, you have to wonder what is gained by putting off a legislative fix to the problems of Indiana wine distribution until January 2007 when the legislature will presumably take up the issue again after the court rules on a lawsuit that is challenging Indiana distribution laws as discriminatory and unconstitutional. It is unlikely the various parties involved will have changed their minds or views in ten months: wine wholesalers want all sales to go through them but are willing to compromise while wineries everywhere want the right to sell to whomever they want, in any way they want and as much as they want, but they two will accept a few restrictions.

In other words, why Garton killed the compromise is unclear to most people right now. There's lots of speculation. But this post is already filled with enough speculation and machiavellian "to-dos" for now.

No matter what happens, it's likely that the controversy will arise in Indiana again in 2007. What might make the difference in terms of what either side in the matter can achieve for themselves and their industries is what they do in the mean time to turn public and political opinion to their views.

Undoubtedly the wine wholesalers can revert to their tried and true method of gaining support: campaign contributions. Wineries being so small as an industry don't have this option. Wholesalers spent upwards of $600,000 on campaign contributions during the 2004 Indiana election cycle.

But I think the impact of more wholesaler contributions is overrated. I think that the public relations battle can be won by either side between now and next January depending on if they choose to continue to fight it. The wholesalers are already on the ball. Not more than a day ago they released  the results of a "push poll" they conducted that was designed to produce a specific opinion from the public that was favorable to their interests. It's well done, but phony in it's obvious slanting of the issue. Nonetheless...the poll is out there and suggests that Indianans just won't abide direct shipment from wineries to consumers or retailers.

These kind of polls aren't cheap. And they are effective. If the wine wholesalers choose to continue the PR battle without any organized response by the wineries you could easily end up with a public that believes minors are boozing it up using the Internet and that somewhere located in the depths of the Bible there is something about how wine wholesalers will inherit the earth.

My hope is that while the court works its way through the lawsuit and legislative matters are reinvigorated next year, the wineries will rally around a few strong voices to keep alive the messages of economic fairness, the work of the family farmer and the corruption of mandated power .

Meanwhile, I think we are going to see one more federal court rule that allowing in-state wineries to sell to retailers but not out of state wineries is unconstitutional. The Indiana case is really set up to do that and the precedent exists. Yet for Indiana, this issue is able to turn on a dime because there are others that might weigh in on the matter. You might have the state Liquor authority move to hold hearings on what would be their desire to see all shipping in Indiana shut down by the fiat of the Liquor authority rather than by the work of the legislature. The head of the state authority on liquor already tried this back in May, but was stopped from implementing his plan when a court found that he had issued these new direct shipping rules outside the bounds of his authority. The court's injunction on his rules ends this month. While the wineries are likely to ask for a continuation of the injunction that won't stop Liquor authority commissioner David Heath from trying use proper channels and rules to shut down direct shipping.

The growing Indiana wine industry is up against lot.

But, others have lot at stake too, besides wineries and wine wholesalers. If you open up sales by wineries to retailers to any producer in America you really unlock some great opportunities for wineries in the big wine producing states like California, Washington, Oregon and New York. I image in time a pretty good sized trade between wineries and restaurants/retailers would develop, providing greater margins for both wineries and retailers, and potentially better prices for consumers.

Yet, there doesn't seem to be much interest by California wineries in getting behind the Indiana wineries in their fight to keep direct sales open to them and to open it up for others. It may be that I'm simply not privy to any help that may be going on behind the scenes. But I've not heard of any. I have heard that CA's largest association of wineries, The California Wine Institute, has made efforts to oppose shipping bills in different states that place restrictions on the size of the winery that is allowed to ship. If this is true then it seems pretty clear that the Institute is more concerned with only taking care of its medium to largest members rather than working on behalf of a more open and liberal national wine trade.

This is understandable and it's hard to blame them for this. It takes the kind of vision that few associations possess to work on issues outside the most immediate view of their members.

There are other reasons why out-of-state wineries might not involve themselves in the Indiana battle and may not even be welcome to it. There is little of PR value to be gained for the Indiana wineries by having wineries from out of state express their desire to horn in on the Indiana market. It's just much easier to depict the desire to liberalize the wine trade into some conspiracy by large California wineries.

As I said, it's "Insider's Baseball". However, what's really interesting about the Indiana battle over who gets to sell wine to whom is that so many of the arguments and procedural weapons that are or will be used across the country are right now on display in Indiana.

Wine Blog WATCH....Truly

Videoblob The future of Television is certainly linked to the Internet. Is the future of the wine blog linked to video.

I encountered my first Video Wine Blog today, produced by the Wine Library, an Internet-based wine retailer. While its production value was not on par with what you might find on cable TV, Wine Library TV certainly demonstrates that the technology is here to exploit video via the Internet to educate people about wine (and sell more wine).

We've discovered centuries ago that the intricacies and interest generated by wine can be expertly communicated through the written world. We know too that audio is a capable medium for delivering information about wine. Yet both these mediums have one thing in common: they rely on words, on literacy, to create a mental picture.

Video is different, it seems. For a Video Wine Blog to go beyond what can be accomplished through mere words the producers really need to exploit the potential of the moving image. Otherwise, you have a podcast that just takes up extra bandwidth and delivers distracting movement on your computer screen.

This is not to say that Wine Library TV won't succeed. Clearly there is motivation and wine experience behind it. But for it to truly work I need them to deliver something to my computer screen that makes me WANT to WATCH. I'm not sure a very educated wine guy sipping wine, spitting it and talking into the camera accomplishes this.

For video to work it needs to take us places that mere words cannot. It needs to put us in the vineyard, in the winery, on the street. It needs to show us things we can not fully appreciate with mere words and sound. Accomplish this and you succeed with the Video Wine Blog.

In earlier posts I've been very bullish on wine blogs, suggesting that they will grow tremendously in 2006, that more and more wineries will adopt them for marketing purposes, and that more and more consumers will come to rely on them. I see the emergence of the Video Wine Blog as part of the same phenomenon that is driving the success and production of mere wine blogs: technology allows us to communicate individually more efficiently with a wider circle of like minded people.

Taking On Wine Cliches

Frank Prial, the venerable and former head wine writer for the New York Times, has an article running about the Internet that takes on the issue of Cliches in wine writing. To take his poke at the ever overused phrases that populate the wine writing genre he channels "Mr. Arbuthnot", the persnickety creation of Frank Sullivan who wrote for the New Yorker in the 1930s. As Mr. Prial explains, the creation of the cliche expert Mr. Arbuthnot was done to "set out to do battle with the inane and the banal in popular writing."

It's was an easy target for "Mr. Arbuthnot" then just as it is for Mr Prial today.

So, what does Mr. Prial's "Mr Arbuthnot" have a problem with when it comes to the wine lexicon? He starts with the term "Nose". Too overused to be of any value he thinks. Perhaps. Luckily we can easily substitute the term "aromas" or "bouquet" and easily satisfy Mr. Arbuthnot.

The term "Hand Crafted" comes in for particular scorn and I have to agree with this assessment as well as with the observation, "
How else would you 'craft' something than with your hands?"

The poking that goes on in this article is directed at a lot of different targets, not just the wine writers and wine marketers who use the phrase most often. It's a good read.

The RE-Judgement of Paris

Time_article We've all known it would happen some time. Thirty years hence is as good a time as any, I suppose. Yet, I can't help but think it's being undertaken as a form of vengeance, rather than what it's being called: "A Celebration".

Decanter Magazine reports that the famed Paris Tasting of 1976 will be recreated, this time simultaneously on two continents and hooked together via video link. The original tasting, when French tasters choose California wines over French wines in a comparative tasting, was the ultimate wine PR coup. It was widely reported on and both raised the reputation of California wines while bringing into question the supposed dominate position of French wines. It changed everything.

The 30th anniversary recreation will feature the same wines that were originally poured as well as a comparative tasting of wines from the 2001 and 2000 vintage from both countries. Steven Spurrier, the man who organized the first tasting and who will be on hand for the new one, believes the French will finally be vindicated:

"I fully expect the longevity of Bordeaux to show up well in the first round of tasting. But it's wide open for the more recent vintages."

Meanwhile, Ben Howkins, the "wine advisor" to Lord Rothschild, is lowering expectations going in: "The wine world has changed so much in the past 30 years, and this is really intended to be a celebration of all that has happened."

I wondering if the French really see the original tasting and what has transpired since as a reason to celebrate. While the French reputation for making classic, world class wine is intact, they have been caught up with in the minds of many since 1976...and not just by Californians.

What's interesting is the guts on display. As too often seems the case, its the French who have everything to lose and very little to gain. What happens if the French tasters choose the old California wines over the old French wines? Ands what happens if Time Magazine covers it again. You might find some French wine makers somewhat unhappy with Mr Spurrier for once again placing the French wines too close to the edge of the pedestal.


Arizona's Pro Wine Cyber-Strategy

The Arizona wineries have made a real game out of their battle with that state's wine distributors who hope to shut off any growth opportunity for that state's wineries. The state's wineries have made headway in the legislative battle even though they face a huge disadvantage when it comes to resources. Their response, in part, has been to take it to the digital streets.

Todd bostock is the winemaker at Arizona's Dos Cabezas Winery, a 3000 case winery that produces a number of wines from high altitude vineyards in the state. Faced with the threat of being cut off from their customers by the oppressive, self-serving and anti-competitive legislation pushed by the wholesalers, Bostock started contacting wine lovers across the country utilizing wine bulletin boards such as Mark Squires Bulletin Board on E-Robert Parker.

According to Bostock, the response of the nation's talk obsessed wine lovers has played a key role in getting out the message to Arizona legislators that the kind of anti-competitive, anti-free trade legislation put up by Arizona's wine distributors is supported by few consumers.

"The e-mails that legislators received after I asked for help at Mark Squires Bulletin Board were extremely helpful in framing the issue for them in simple, stark consumer-oriented terms," Bostock told FERMENTATION.

"When legislators hear from their constituents as well as others affected by this kind of legislation they stop and think twice."

Arizona's legislators apparently got the message. Yesterday the wine wholesaler's bill that would have virtually killed all direct shipping to consumer by Arizona wineries as well as prevent Arizona wineries from selling direct to retailers and restaurants (a right they've had since 1982) was killed in committee. That leaves the wineries' proposed legislation (HB2500) the main bill making its way through the Arizona legislative process.

Arizona, like so many other states, was faced with amending its wine distribution laws after the Supreme Court ruled that a state can not discriminate between in and out-of-state wineries. Arizona wineries had the right to sell directly to retailers, effectively going around the distributors, while out of state wineries did not have this right. The state's wine wholesalers' response to this constitutional predicament was to ask the legislator to force all wineries to sell directly to wholesalers.

In the case of Bostock's Dos Cabezas Winery, 95% of all their sales are directly to retailers and restaurants. Assuming they could get a wholesaler to represent them, and do it well, they would have to take an immediate 30% drop in revenue. That's the kind of hit that puts you out of business.

The Arizona Wineries Association
fought back by raising about $20,000 to hire a lobbyist to push their case in the legislature. Consider they are up against billion dollar wholesale companies who have contributed thousands of dollars to the state's lawmakers. Still, they were able to see the distributors' bill killed in committee yesterday.

"The battle is far from over," says Bostock. "We are going to have a hard time of passing our bill when it comes to the floor of the legislature, but we are in the process of trying to talk to as many legislators as possible between now and then.

Wholesalers across the country are now attempting to, or planning to try to, strip distribution rights from wineries in an attempt to preserve a system that is out of date, hamstringing economic activity, and highly anti-competitive. The same battle occurring in Arizona, as well as Virginia, Indiana, Illinois, Maryland, Pennsylvania and other states is going to continue.

The question that Bostock's activities raise is can use of the Internet be used effectively to interact with sympathetic wine lovers to help the wineries make their case that the three tier system shouldn't be state mandated; that their economic viability and growth potential is tied to their right to sell directly to consumers and retailers?

I think it can. Free The Grapes was a fairly instrumental organization in gathering support from wine lovers across the country as the direct shipping battles raged in the run up to the May 2005 Supreme Court decisions. The battles be fought now, particularly with regard to the wineries' right to self distribute their product and to choose whether or not to use distributors, is a more complex issue than simply whether a state should allow direct shipping to consumers. A great deal more is at stake for both wineries and distributors. What's needed is a "Friends of the Winery" type organization that is capable of accessing various networks of wine lovers on the net to come to the defense of wineries across the country when they need the help. I imagine an organization that can raise money to do the media relations work as well as the consumer organizing work. Perhaps this is Free the Grapes, but with an altered agenda. Perhaps it is a new organization.

What I know is that it is people like Bostock and the readers over at Mark Squire's Wine Bulletin Board that need to stay involved to help push the agenda and lead the fight.

Wine Letter of the Year

If anyone in the wine community wants a reason why Alder Yarrow's Vinography won BEST WINE BLOG OF THE YEAR two years running, they need only look to the letters section of today's San Francisco Chronicle.

Alder's take on the "Zinfandel as CA Official Grape" controversy is, well, unique. If Alder's own cheek weren't already quite busy accommodating his tongue, I might give it a big kiss for provoking me to laugh out loud.

Wine PR Rules #33 and #34

How Not To Practice Wine Public Relations: Rule #33 and #34

Rule #33: DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE CONTACTING A WRITER

Jamie Goode relates a hilarious, but sad, example of a PR Person for a large UK Grocery chain who contacted wine writer Tim Atkin of the Observer in London asking if Mr. Atkin would be interested in occasionally quoting a Master of Wine in his columns. The PR person offered all the strong arguments for including the thoughts of a Master of Wine, a title one earns only after demonstrating significant wine knowledge. Yet, apparently the PR person didn't think to do their homework. Mr. Atkin holds a Master of Wine title himself.

For anyone out there at wineries or other business who are thinking of contacting the media to pitch a story, it's always a good idea to learn something about the person you are about to contact. Read what they've written. Find out where their words are published.

Rule #34: DON'T ASK REPORTERS TO REPORT ON A GREAT REVIEW

I was talking with a wine writer yesterday. Somehow the discussion turned to reviews and the 100 point scale. This writer is someone who is on every wine media list every created in the past 15 years. He reported to me that on a regular basis he gets press releases from wineries announcing they got 90 something points from another reviewer.

"What are they thinking? That I'm going to write about what's some other reviewer has said about their wines."

Here's the tip: Don't ask a writer to write about what another writer has written. Alright?

The Wine Great Wine Importer Sings the Blues

Lynchband
There some people in the wine business who can only be described as Legends, pure and simple. They've pioneered some part of the business or succeeded so profoundly on an individual level that their work has led to many others trodding a similar path after having been inspired.

Kermit Lynch is one such legend. The importer of small, boutique French producers has introduced thousands of people to the joy and intimacy that comes with sipping something authentic. Lynch introduced the notion of boutique French wine producer to the American public from his little shop in Berkeley, California.

But now...after all these years, I learn that Mr. Lynch is a songwriter/singer too. And I've got the CD to prove it.

Fellow PR pro Dan Fredman sent me "Quicksand Blues", a CD with a collection of songs written by Kermit Lynch over the years and performed by none other than the likes of Boz Scaggs, James Hutchinson, Alvin Youngblood Heart, Ricky Fataar and others. And it's a great listen.

As it turns out, back in the late 60s and early 70s Lynch had his sights set on being a musician. Unfortunately, as Kermit puts it, "when my band wasn't making earning enough money to keep a decent jug of red wine on my table." The end of his music career resulted in Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, thank goodness. However, it also resulted in the title song on the CD: "Quicksand Blues", performed by Lynch.
Quicksandblues
Quicksand Blues is mainly a devotional to the various strands of the blues associated with different part of America with forays into straight driving rock and country. I've been enjoy the CD quite a bit.

I can only imagine the kind of thrill it must have been for Lynch to get Boz Scaggs on board to gather together a group of great musicians and record his songs.

My favorites on Quicksand Blues are "December Rain", "Country Living" and "Back to Memphis"

You can download QUICKSAND BLUES at iTunes or buy it at Amazon.com.

Top 2005 Pinot Noirs

Pinotreport1
I think it's fair to say that Pinot Noir is the most exciting area of winemaking in California today. The Pinot Noir category is churning up new producers. Newer Pinot producing regions are strutting their stuff. And, various styles of Pinot Noir are lining the shelves, one next to the other, from the more elegantly styled to the blockbuster powerhouses. It's really a time of great experimentation and change when it comes to Pinot.

This is why it's so exciting to receive the "Pinot Passion Awards" in Greg Walter's Pinot Report. This newsletter won the James Beard Award last year for it's searing focus on Pinot, comprehensive coverage of the wine as it is interpreted in the new world and for its fine writing. The Pinot Passion Awards are the newsletter's annual list of the best American Pinots, Best Value American Pinots and most Passionate producers of Pinot. This is the 4th annual Pinot Passion Awards by The Pinot Report.


TOP PINOT NOIRS (only five of the full 12 listed here)

1.2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Cargasacchi Vineyard ($48)
125 Cases - 97 Points

2. 2003 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($28)
790 Cases - 96 Points

3. 2004 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Green Valley Keefer Ranch ($48)
300 Cases - 96 Points

4. 2003 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Savoy ($45)
440 Cases - 95 Points

5. 2004 Roessler Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch ($36)
186 Cases - 95 Points

What's interesting is that if you include he 6 "honorable mentions" along with the 12 top Pinots listed you see no single appellation dominating the list. Eight of the 18 are from Sonoma County, but are divided between Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros. Ten years ago you might find two or three wines at most that were outside of Sonoma County.


TOP VALUE PINOTS (only 5 of the top 12 listed)

1. 2003 Sebastiani Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($15)
16,300 Cases - 94 Points

2. 2004 Mirassou Pinot Noir California ($11)
25,000 Cases - 91 Points

3. 2004 Five Rivers Winery Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($10)
25,000 Cases - 88 Points

4. 2003 Turning Leaf Pinot Noir Sonoma County Sonoma Reserve ($10)
40,000 Cases - 89 Points

5. 2003 Gallo of Sonoma Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Reserve ($13)
30,000 Cases - 92 Points


PINOT'S MASTER VINTNERS OF 2005

1. Micheal Browne, Kosta Browne Winery
2. Lynn Penner Ash, Penner-Ash Wine Cellars
3. Richard Sanford, Alma Rosa


PINOT'S RISING STARS OF 2005

1. Josh Bergstrom, Bergstrom Vineyards
2. Bill Brosseau, Testarossa Vineyards
3. Patrick Melley Russian Hill Estate
4. Vanessa Wong, Peay Vineyards

The full report offers detailed descriptions of all the wines as well as profiles of the Masters and Rising Stars. This is the issue of the Pinot Report I look forward to most every year. A one-year email subscription to the Pinot Report is $75. If you love Pinot and are looking for a trusted source for the most interesting bottlings you need to subscribe to this newsletter.

Wine Wholesaslers: "Everyone's Incompetent But Us"

It struck me as I was reading a news report of the dire situation Arizona wineries find themselves in (thanks to wine middlemen) that the wine wholesalers who want to convince legislators to stop all forms of direct shipment and direct sales by wineries are making a very unique argument:

"EVERYONE IS INCOMPETENT BUT US WHOLESALERS!"

In Arizona the wholesalers are pushing a bill that would forbid Arizona wineries from selling direct to consumers and selling direct to retailers. Arizona wineries have had this right for more than 20 years.

Wholesalers are arguing that Arizona's and out-of-state wineries would not properly collect and remit to the state taxes they collect on the wine they sell. Now, what makes them think this? Arizona wineries have been doing this for more than two decades without no problems at all.

Then there is Mark Osborn, a lobbyist for the Protect 21 Coalition, a hastily created organization financed largely by wholesalers that opposes direct shipping of wine. According to a news report Osborne said "there is no way to ensure that wine ordered by phone or the Internet is actually going to someone of legal drinking age"

The winery sponsored bill in Arizona, HB 2500, that allows wineries to continue to sell wine direct, requires that delivery people get an adult signature when delivering wine. But, again according to new reports: "Osborn said he doubts busy drivers working for package delivery services will enforce the provision."

Is everyone incompetent in the wholesaler's world except the wine wholesalers?

Also from the same article:
"Susie Stevens, lobbyist for Alliance Beverage Distributing, a licensed wholesaler, said her company is not trying to put the wineries out of business. She said, though, they should be required to distribute their product through the same system that applies to virtually all other alcoholic beverages."

She doesn't say why this should be the case...probably because that would require she acknowledge that wholesalers believe this should be the case simply so they can make more money. "We want to protect our profits by having government mandate no competition" probably isn't the best argument in the world.

What's interesting is that if you look on Ms. Steven's boss's website, you'll see they list no Arizona winery as a client. This Arizona wine wholesaler apparently does not represent a single Arizona winery. Yet, they want to stop them from self distributing and selling directly to the public. It's an outrageous claim that could only be made by a company so steeped in years of feeling some sort of entitlement and that has not experienced any sort of competitive environment.

Culinary Confession

Birthday
There was a time, not too long ago, when birthday's freaked me out. The aging thing. My response was to spend my birthdays pretty much alone, at home, reflecting. I tended to partner these bouts of melancholy with vintage port. I could usually get through Godfather 1 and 2 and a good bottle of Warres or Fonseca and the dreaded day would be over.

Things have changed. I don't mind birthday's nearly as much. However, I do still indulge myself. But I think it's time to come out of the closet. That is, it's time to admit to my favorite birthday meal. I do this only to encourage others self-described "gourmands" to admit to their more pedestrian indulgences. If we, who occasionally really "eat down" don't speak up, that pang of guilt we harbor will just stay with us.

So, here it is my birthday meal confession.

My family always gets me whatever I want on my birthday. And I tend to choose the same thing every year

1. Buffalo Wings: They have to be the kind that are fried where the skin gets a touch crispy, even after they have been dipped in their tomato and vinegar based sauce. No too spicy, but spicy enough to bring you to that point just before you break a sweat.

2. Safeway Chocolate Layer Cake. Yes, that stuff. The stuff where they make the frosting out of lard, sugar and some type of chocolaty flavoring. The kind where the icing gets hard i the fridge. The texture of the frosting on the outside needs to have just smallest bit of granularity to it.

3. Campbell's NV Tokay. A great Aussie Sweety to wash it all down. Just enough acidity to carve a path down my throat for the cake.

Not the most inspired combination, I admit. But it is my birthday comfort food. And I'm proud to say I can admit it. Come on now...all you closeted comfort food junkies who also live in the gourmet world..it's ok. You can admit it.

Weekend Links

FERMENTATION'S WEEKEND LINKS
February 18, 2006

1. Proposed Federal Budget Hits Wineries Hard

2. Koeppel's Primer on Red Wine & Chocolate

3. Calling for Competition

4. Wine Events...Everywhere

5. Where Wine, Food & Travel Writers Mingle

6. The eGullet Wine Forums

7. Cheap, Well-Aged, California Pinot Noir

8. The Terroir Confernce

9. Thomas Jefferson's Cultivated Life

10. Wine Blog of the Week: The Zinquisition

The Wine Pod Cometh

Provina It's no secret that a huge number of visitors to wine country come away with the idea in their head of how great it would be to make their own wine. Some have visions of owning a winery on Highway 29 in Napa. But most just want to take a shot at bottling their own wine.

For these types there is a pretty large industry that caters to home winemakers. However, the learning curve can be pretty steep. Plus, there's all that equipment to buy.

It's these issues that attracted me to a new product coming to market that makes it easier to learn how to make wine and to actually produce the stuff. It's called the "Wine Pod" from Pro Vina.

The Wine Pod appears to be a blend of high technology applied to home winemaking efforts. The cool looking pod allows the home winemaker to cold soak, crush, and press grapes, ferment them and age the wine. Yet, the pod has a built in wireless network that can hook into your computer where you load the Pro Vina software.

Here's where things get damn cool. The software allows you to monitor the pace of your winemaking efforts while it teaches you the process. But wait, there's more. Built into the software are instructions or "recipes" for producing particular styles of wine. Want your Cab big, fat and fruity? Want your Pinot delicate and silky? How about Chardonnay with a crisp, no-oak character. The Pro Vina software offers instruction on how to achieve this style of wine.

A limited number of Pro Vina units will be produced in 2006 with production ramped up significantly in 2007. Customers are currently E-MAILING the company to get on a waiting list. The estimated cost for a unit is around $2000.00. You can make the equivalent of 5-6 cases of wine in each batch.

The Wine Pod system includes:

• 100 liter tank. About 6 cases of wine per ferment
• Wireless control and monitoring from anywhere
• Whisper quiet temperature control
• Cold soaking
• Ferment at automatically controlled temperatures
• In-situ brix (sugar by weight %), temperature and pH sensors
• Extremely gentle automatic 2-ton melior style press
• Submerged cap-management capable
• Oxygen-free controlled atmosphere
• Winemaking software included
• Color LCD screen with multi-point calibration
• Choice of metallic or wood WinePod tank finishes
• Choice of stone and tile pedestal finishes
• Optional 25 and 50 liter Hungarian, French or American Oak barrel, light to heavy toast

This appears to be a technological improvement in the world of home winemaking. But more important, it delivers accessibility to home winemaking, and this is what I like about the Wine Pod. This is not to say that winemaking is a push-button operation. There's an art to all this, clearly. But I'll say again, whenever you can make a seemingly complex operation easier to get at, when you can make it less expensive and when you can provide a vehicle for education while offering a good deal of fun, I think you are offering something very cool.

It will be interesting to see how this type of product does when it is in mass distribution. However, it strikes me that the Wine Pod is one more way by which wine is being mainstreamed in the American Culture. This is a good thing.

Sponsor Wine News

A WORD FROM OUR SPONSORS

News from FERMENTATION Sponsors...

K&L WINE MERCHANTS
K&L Wine Merchants has it's own blog. Currently there is a post that delivers a vintage report on the 2001 Brunello Vintage. Worth a look. Also, don't forget to check out the Inventory Clearance page where the last of some great wines are highlighted.

MAYO FAMILY WINERY
Glen Ellen's Mayo Family Winery has announced the opening of its second RESERVE ROOM, this one in the town of Healdsburg just off the plaza. As with it's Sonoma Valley Reserve Room, the Healdsburg rendition offers a tasting room with chairs, service and seven food and wine pairings for $20. The Wall Street Journal called the Sonoma Valley RESERVE room "The best deal in Wine Country"

On Mummies, Sisters and Wine

My sister and I connect in a lot of ways, but one of them is not wine. She doesn't drink, so it's hard to share my enthusiasm for wine. That's one of the reasons I like stories like this one.

Tut Apparently scientists have determined that white wine occupied some of the vessels found in King Tuts' tomb in Egypt. Previous stories had Tut enjoying only red wine. But liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry now show that wine wine was placed into these jars that went with the boy king into the afterlife. But what's more interesting is that there is no record of there being white wine in Egypt until 1,600 years after Tut's death.

My sister is a mucky-muck at the San Jose Egyptian Museum, one of the finest Egyptian themed museum in the world. She's traveled to Egypt countless times, played host to that country's famed Director of Antiquities and has spent many a day inside the tombs and pyramids of Ancient Egypt.

I figure this story is bound to capture her interest. But it's also of interest for what it tells us about our understanding of history and the ancient world. We tend to think we know so much. We believe we understand what came and went before us. I'm not suggesting that we take written history with a grain of salt. Rather, it's important to keep our minds open to the idea that what be believe is fact, my be just our best estimate.

Careful What You Ask For

An interesting new twist in the direct shipping battles is emerging in Massachusetts.

A direct shipping bill was passed in that state that allowed consumers there to buy wine from in and out-of-state wineries. However, it limited wineries that produced 30,000 gallons or less of wine to taking part in the program. If you owned a winery that made more than that, too bad, you can't ship direct to consumers. It was, as it always is, a bill that protected the middle man. It assured the wholesalers that the big wineries couldn't get around having to sell their wine to the wholesalers.

Well, Governor Mitt Romney vetoed the bill on the grounds that it was, simply, protectionist and anti-consumer. He was right. However, his veto was overridden two days ago and the new law is set to go into affect.

Romney's spokesperson, Julie Te er, had this to say: "“The override is disappointing because now wine lovers will no longer have the opportunity to purchase the bottlings that they want and, unfortunately, consumer choice will be limited."

Tracey Gleeson of The Coalition for Free Trade follow up with, "
This is just another form of discrimination."

Now, it appears there is talk of a lawsuit on the grounds that the bill discriminates against large wineries. No one would deny that it does. The question is whether this type of discrimination is constitutional.

The 21st Amendment has been interpreted to allow states to write nearly any kind of law pertaining to alcohol as long as the law promotes temperance or an orderly market. Clearly limiting direct shipping to  wineries making 30K gallons of wine or less has nothing to do with temperance. But does it speak to an orderly market? I'm no lawyer, but I can't think of an argument that suggests letting small wineries ship direct but not "large" wineries does anything to promote an orderly market in alcohol distribution.

Now, I tend to be rather strident when it comes to direct shipping. I believe there ought to be a completely level playing field. I believe wineries should be able to sell direct to consumers or retailers or wholesalers. It should be their choice. However, I'm aware what is possible. The wholesaling middlemen have amassed so much power based on their payouts to politicians in every state that you have to take into account that a number of politicians simply are not going to go against what their paymasters want. This means that in some states to get some semblance of direct shipping or self distribution rights for wineries some compromise is necessary. Limits on the size of the winery shipping has been a common compromise.

My fear is that without having the size limitation to offer wholesalers, and politicians, as a compromise we will end up with absolutely no rights to ship direct.

The interesting thing is this: if the wineries, and in the case of MA, the Governor, choose to fight for all wineries being able to ship, then the politicians are put in a position of finding an argument for only allowing small wineries to ship. In essence, they have to make the argument for protecting the wholesalers against competition. They can't use the "minors will get their hands on alcohol" argument because they have already agreed to allow some direct shipping. And, if their alternative argument is no shipping at all, then they have to explain why they are willing to hurt and, in some cases, kill off small wineries.

You have to respect the position Romney (who is considered a potential Presidential candidate in 08) is taking. It's very pro-consumer. But I admit, I worry about what the outcome of such a lawsuit will be.

Depressing (and Repressing) Terroir

Carnerostasting Appellation America, that intrepid organization that is attempting to identify unique regional signatures that can be identified in wines, has posted its commentary based on a comprehensive tasting or Carneros Pinot Noirs that was conducted at Bouchaine Winery a few weeks ago. As I suspected, the analysis is a bit disturbing:

"Over time, wine makers in Carneros began to sense that they had to work diligently to get higher scores through elimination of the distinctive terroir components that had marked their wines of the past."

Dan Berger, who along with Alan Goldfarb, headed up the tasting, begins his analysis of what was discovered at this tasting with the above sentence. For those of you who believe distinctive regional character is important to your wine drinking experiences you can't be too happy with this conclusion.

The entire article is a fascinating rumination on the state of Carneros Pinot Noir, the factors that influence regional character in this vast region, and the prospects for the future of using the idea of "terroir" as a guiding principle in evaluating wine altogether.

I was at this tasting. Berger's somewhat pessimistic conclusions match my own.

I have my own ideas on what terroir means (N + Hx(10) = T).. I believe when we speak of terroir we need to speak as much to a "culture of winemaker techniques" as we do to what nature gives us to work with. This can be a depressing notion for the die hard terroirista. However, it can also be a fascinating lens through which one comes to view and understand the art of winemaking.

Memo to French Wine Industry: CHANGE!!

Call me old fashioned, but I just don't get he idea of causing havoc as a way to address the fact that the world is changing when it comes to economic and marketing models that govern the French wine industry.

Were I in the South of France my views would apparently be in the minority.
Group
Yesterday thousands of French vintners and a few "Anarchists" (I guess you take the supporters you can get) spilled into the streets of Bezier, Nimes, Avignon and other French cities to make clear their frustration with the falling market for grapes and French wine that has caused considerable hardship for growers and some winemakers.

Along the way train and phone lines were attacked. Riot police were called out.

The French have a problem. French are drinking less wine, less French wine is being exported and higher percentages of imported wines are being drunk by the French.

The obvious solution, which is not a long-term solution, is to rip out vineyards. And they are apparently doing that at a rate of about 2% of the vineyards this year. That's a good start, but only a start.

The other solution is finding ways to market French wine abroad. Everyone knows what works. It's a matter of doing it. As for the decline in French consumption, this is clearly a social shift that is occurring in France that will be hard to turn around. For now, the French should focus on trying to re-take market share back from the Australian, Chilean and other less expensive imports that have become more and more popular in France.

Of course, the other option is simply to rip up train tracks, attack telecommunication infrastructure and burn down cities.

A good explanation of the French Wine Crisis can be found here.

Wine Wholesalers Have a Good Cry

It appears the wine & beer wholesalers in Illinois are concerned they are being portrayed as the "Bad Guys" in legislative battle there that could lead to many of the state's wineries going out of business if the wholesalers have their way.

Say it with me...."Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww"

Jim Rinella, president of Rinella Distributing of Quincy, claims that recent rules allow out of state wineries to ship to Illinois consumers and that there is no guarantee that these wineries would pay the taxes that are due on such sales.

To put it bluntly, Mr. Rinella is full of it. California wineries have been able to ship wine to Illinois for years under reciprocity agreements that were in place between the states. Nothing has changed in that regard. What's changed is that the wholesalers have learned that recent court decisions dictate that states may no longer allow in-state wineries to sell to RETAILERS and RESTAURANTS, while out-of-state wineries are prohibited from this. And that's why the Illinois wholesalers are trying to use their influence, gained via campaign contributions, to stop Illinois wineries from selling directly to RETAILERS and RESTAURANTS. If they allow that, then they must allow out-of-state wineries to do the same.

Meanwhile, you've got representative Lou Lang of Illinois carrying the wholesalers' water on this attempt to kill the Illinois wine industry. Lang introduced the bill that would stop Illinois wineries from "self distribution" and force them to use wholesalers. Yet when I asked Rep. Lang if there was any provision that would force wholesalers to represent wineries, since they would no longer be able to represent themselves, he stuttered and said "I believe that has been discussed." Of course, Lang's bill has not been amended to assure this occurs. And why would it, the wholesalers have no desire to be forced to do anything.

And we are supposed to cry for poor Jim Rinella who is bothered the wholesalers are being called the "bad guys"? My goodness, they are lucky that "Bad Guys" is the worst thing they are being called. I know some people who might call them "Industry KILLERS" and "CORRUPT from head to toe."

But it's Lang who really deserves this kind of name calling. Lang pulls out that old claim that he's concerned that minors will get their hands on the wine if it's allowed to be shipped directly to consumers. Someone should remind him that consumers in Illinois have been able to obtain wine via the Internet for years. Where was Lang and his concern for all these years? Did he know..

1. 99% of all wine that ends up in minors hands first goes through his patrons (wholesalers) hands?
2. Supreme Court Justice Anthony Kennedy completely dismissed the notion that minors getting wine via the Internet is a problem?
3. Bill O'Donaghue, Chief Legal Counsel for the Illinois Liquor Control Commission, says that in his two years in that position he's seen not one case of minors getting wine via the Internet?

Of course Lang knows all this.

He also knows that the alcohol distributors, who are pushing this winery-killing legislation, are among his biggest campaign contributors. Pretty simple math.

This anti-winery, anti-competitive legislation in Illinois is nothing more than a case of politicians willing to kill off small business for the sake of preserving their own cash flow. I'm not sure what Rinella and other wholesalers are crying about: They are getting what they paid for.

Wine PR People are "the bomb"

I got a nice e-mail from a colleague in the wine PR biz who took me to task over my stated support for Zinfandel being named the California State Wine. Jo Diaz had other thoughts on the subject.

I hesitate to froward FERMENTATION readers over to Jo's argument against Zin being given this honor because, well, I rather like being the "Wine PR Guy" in the Blogosphere. If Jo's blog were no good I'd have no problem sending you all there lickety-split. But that's not the case.

Diaz is one of those PR types who has been practicing these dark arts for many years. She's a wonderful writer and, as I hope you'll note, she's got an authentic voice that works well in the context of the blog world. Clearly she's working harder than I because she doesn't populate her blog with as many posts as I do. But I hope that will change...that is, I hope she'll write more because she has some very compelling stuff to read. Jo's articles on wine reviews and on independent wine writers are particularly good.

The quality of Jo's writing and thoughts in her blog really shouldn't surprise me or anyone else for two reasons. First, she's been in the business long enough to demonstrate she has talent. Second, she's a wine PR pro. This latter reason needs a bit of explanation.

For all the "flack" PR types get, the type of work we do takes us in close contact with every part of the wine business. We need to know the winemaking, administrative, distribution, accounting, regulation, media, grapegrowing and consumer buying habits as well as other parts of the wine business. We get exposed to a lot that those in other positions of the wine industry don't. So it follows that while we may not have a particularly deep knowledge of any one particular area, with the exception of media and consumer habits, we have a very broad knowledge of things wine. Jo certainly has that.

Merry Bacchus Day?

Baccusday I made my peace with Valentines Day a long time ago. However, for quite some time I found the holiday somewhat offensive. In fact, I recall helping to organize a demonstration against the "Corporate Created, Guilt-i\Inspiring Holiday". Clearly our efforts didn't have the effect we hoped for. Plus, a number of girlfriends, boyfriends and spouses of those of us leading the protest weren't exactly sure how to view our actions.

But, as I mentioned, I made my peace with Valentines Day. I participate. But, I also have good reason to.

That said, I wonder what it would take to get another made up holiday off the ground. Could we create something that would inspire the masses to go out and shop, spend, and fret.

Could we, perhaps, create BACCHUS DAY?

A lot would have to be worked out, but it seems feasible: A holiday to celebrate the joy celebration with wine at its center. Everyone would feel compelled to buy a bottle of wine for friends and family on Bacchus Day. I think "Merry Bacchus Day" has a better ring to it than "happy Bacchus day," so I'd urge that phrasing.

It would be day when Bacchanalia would ensue across the land. Convention would demand that these parties not descend into drunken orgies. You can't expect to create a national holiday based on drunken orgies....can you? No...You can't. Never mind. No drunken orgies. Just parties centered around food and wine.

I'm pretty sure we'd have to get Hallmark on board to. You can't have a great holiday without a greeting card. Maybe just a very slim column of "Bacchus Day Cards" to begin with would do. I think we could get Hal mark on board. There doesn't seem to be a holiday they can't endorse. It would be nice however if we could get the Peanuts people to license the image of snoopy or Linus for the cards. Holidays definitely work better when Snoopy and Linus are down with it.

We need an official Bacchus Day symbol too...like the heart for Valentines Day or the Turkey for Thanksgiving. I'm thinking a bright red WINE STAIN for our symbol...something abstract but it also needs to have an outline of a wine glass base in it. I can see the cards now. Linus with a wine stained security blanket, holding aloft his wine glass wishing the recipient a MERRY BACCHUS DAY.

We've got the name of the Holiday, the greeting, the activity (a food and wine event, not a drunken orgy), greeting cards, a symbol. All we need now is some initial corporate sponsorship. I wouldn't want to make all this too obvious so I think Constellation Wine Brands, Gallo and Yellowtail are out. The healthcare industry probably isn't the right way to go either. I'm thinking a national industry that has reach, does lots of advertising and could use a good reason to see Americans REAL HAPPY for at least one day of the year.  This is a job for the Utility Industry. They'd be happy to get people's minds off gas and heating oil prices. Plus, they could promote Bacchus Day in our monthly utility bills, on those signs that sit atop the gas pumps and on the serene commercials that promote how gas companies help the environment that run on Sunday morning talking head shows.

I think we are good. All we need to do now is pick a day. Sometime in June. No big holidays then And I think we can definitely steal Flag Day's thunder. We'll get back to the specific day after talking with Utility companies.

There it is: Bacchus Day. Who's with me?

The Most Signficant Development in wine since 1933

The "three tier system" can be a complicated beast invested and stuffed with a myriad of regulations and special interest mandates. However, at it's most basic the three tier system mandates that producers sell to distributors, distributors sell to retailers and restaurants and the retailer and restaurants sell to the consumer.

The three tier system is in fact the most efficient way move large quantities of products across state lines from producers to consumers. However, the fact that such a system is MANDATED by most states has resulted in it becoming among the most corrupt and stifling structures currently in place in the wine business.

We are about to find out what happens when the three tier system is NOT MANDATED.

In the most important development in alcohol distribution since 1933, Washington State de-mandated the use of the three tier system and will allow producers of wine anywhere in the country to sell their product either directly to consumers, directly to restaurants and retailers or directly to a distributor.

This is unprecedented. No other state in America allows both in and out-of-state producers to choose how they sell their wines. They demand the out-of-state wineries sell directly to distributors and wholesalers.

It is reasonable to ask: Why do we have a three-tier system in the first place. You have to go back to the years before prohibition to understand why.

WHY A MANDATED THREE TIER SYSTEM
Prior to prohibition beer producers owned or controlled taverns and saloons across the country.They tied the saloons to them through ownership and coercion. And saloons as well as beer producers engaged in activities that promoted problem drinking, such as offering free lunches just to get people in the saloon at noon so they'd buy and drink beer. It was a problem that helped lead to prohibition being instituted.

To deal with the problem of "tied houses" after Prohibition ended most states demanded that producers not own retail outlets or restaurants. They mandated that a wholesaler be put between the two and mandated that the wholesalers have no interest in the producing or the retail side of the alcohol business. Wholesalers would collect and remit taxes to the state and would work closely with the states' various alcohol departments and commissions and boards. The 21st amendment that ended Prohibition gave the state the right to regulate alcohol sales just about any way they wanted. Since then various Supreme Court decisions have confirmed that right as long as inequities and discrimination were not put in place that stifled interstate commerce.

The problem with the three tier system is not that it prevents cross ownership between the tiers, but that it mandates that wineries, retailers and restaurants always work with a wholesaler.

A winery that must sell to a wholesaler rather than directly to a retailer means they make 25% less by going through the wholesaler. This 25% is enough to stop some wineries from making a profit. Yet the winery can do all the things a wholesaler does, such as collecting and remitting taxes to the state and making sure the wine is not sold to an unlicensed retailer or restaurateur.

In Washington State, as in many other states, local wineries had the right to "self distribute" and go around the wholesaler, while out of state wineries did not. The May 2005 Supreme Court decision as well as a December Federal Court decision made clear that this kind of discrimination is unconstitutional.

Unlike most other states, Washington has decided to de-mandate the use of the three tier system for out-of-state wineries rather than take away the self distribution right from in-state wineries as is likely to happen in Illinois, Indiana, Virginia and Maryland...as well as a host of other states as soon as distributors get their act together and find a legislator to introduce a winery-killing law.

Distributors are willing to essentially destroy the profitability of small wineries in order to protect themselves from the prospect of large wineries in CA choosing to distribute their wines themselves to restaurants and particularly to large retailers. Furthermore, legislators are willing to go along with this business-killing type of legislation in order to protect their own sources of campaign contributions that are liberally offered by distributors. It's corrupt.

DISTRIBUTORS NEED TO JUSTIFY THE NEED FOR THEIR MONOPOLY STATUS
It's time for the states and wholesalers to demonstrate why a mandated three tier system is in the interest of the state. They should show how only a wholesaler is capable of collecting taxes and remitting them to the state, but out-of-state wineries are not. The should show how only wholesalers are capable of assuring alcohol isn't sold to non-licensed entities. And they should show how state licensing of out-of-state wineries to sell to retailers and restaurants is an unfeasible way of keeping track of who is selling to who.

If they cannot demonstrate any of this then the mandated three tier systems should be de-mandated, producers should be allowed to sell to whomever they want and competition should be allowed.

We are about to find out in Washington State that even if the three-tier system is de-mandated that more than 80% of the wine sales will still go through wholesalers because it's the most efficient way to get wine market. But we will also discover that some enterprising wineries and retailers will be even happier to go around the wholesalers. This is good because it might cause the wholesalers to work harder to keep the business they have and it might make wineries appreciate the wholesalers even more.