Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog

LOTS of Merlot

Here's the skinny on what I've been hearing about the upcoming harvest on the North Coast:

LOTS OF PINOT HANGING IN THE VINEYARDS
LOTS OF MERLOT HANGING IN THE VINEYARDS

LOTS = Wow...that's a lot of grapes you've got there.

One story that's being passed around in Sonoma is that an Alexander Valley Grower with lots of Merlot planted dropped his price for the crop to $350 a ton. That's nothing....And no one is buying it. And we aren't talking about poor grapes either.

As a friend said to me recently, "you're going to be seeing lots of merlot in your 2006 Zinfandel, in you 2006 Cabernet, in your 2006 White Zinfandel, in your Syrah and in just about any other red wine."

Last year's harvest was said to be very very big. But it wasn't big for all the varietals. We don't know yet what this year's total tonnage of grapes will be since the harvest has just started. But....there will be LOTS of merlot.

Girly Man Nixes Wine History

Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger vetoed the bill that would have recognized Zinfandel as "The Historic Wine of California".

What a GirlyMan!!

Well, maybe that's not fair. Let's at least see what he had to say in his veto message:

"To name only one of the many of the varietals produced in California as the
historic wine fails to recognize the many world class varietals produced in the State.
With California’s unique micro climates, diverse geography, outstanding soils, and
industrious growers, farmworkers and vintners who have mastered the delicate art of
winemaking perfectly balancing art with science, it would be a shame to recognize only
one as “California’s Historic Wine.”

Typical of politicians, he doesn't address the issue. Of course naming Zin the Historic Wine of California "fails to recognize the many world class varietals produced in the state." That's sort of the point of singling out one wine. Let's face it, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc hardly rise to the historic levels that Zinfandel does.

It was Zinfandel that saved California from the "Mission" grape that produced mediocre wine throughout the latter part of the 19th century in California. Then Zin came around and winemakers realized that truly great wine could be made in the state. Upon seeing the results of the wines made from Zinfandel growers began planting it at a breakneck speed.

Today Zinfandel is universally recognized as "America's grape".

So, I fear I can't retract my charge: Girly Man!!

The problem for the Governor, I presume, was that he saw no political benefit to signing the legislation. He likely figured he gained nothing politically while likely losing a tad of respect from a few winemakers and a wine association or two. It appears, by the way, that the powerful California Wine Institute favored the legislation while Family Winemakers of California opposed the legislation.

Those opposing the legislation accurately portrayed the legislation as being unfair. Of course by definition, singling out one thing is unfair. But recognizing greatness and significance is not about fair. It's about recognizing singularity and greatness.

Others thought that by singling out Zinfandel it might give Zin producers an unfair sales boost at the hands of the state. Perhaps it would have offered  minor and temporary boost. And I'm going to spend the rest of the morning trying to figure out how that's bad.

The Governor made a poor decision. Honesty and history suffered.

Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) statement on the Veto and news can be found here.

 

Burning Man Vs. Wine Auctions

My beautiful wife Ginny is set to leave me home with the kids (a dubious decision) tomorrow as she heads off for Burning Man for the 7th or 8th time. I've never been to Burning Man mainly because I'm not a big fan of the desert and dust. However, one year I considered going and creating the Desert Wine Cafe for the oenophile folk at the event. But my wife, a veteran, informed me it's not really a wine-kinda-thing.

I took her word on it, stayed home and watched the kids.

But I'm just not sure I'm willing to give up on the Burning Man contingent. 30,000 people will head out to the self expression festival this week. Some of them surely will be missing their wine...despite the other....distractions. I know Ginny will be.

So I started to look through our stash here to see just what would be appropriate for 100 degree heat and dust. What wine matches that milieu?

I'll send her off with some palate cleansing Gewurztraminer... and in a pinch can be used to wipe yourself down...as long as it's dry.

The closest thing we have to Burning Man in the wine industry is the Sonoma Valley Harvest Auction Weekend. This is a great, fun, casual event in Sonoma Valley where the vintners just take off and and enjoy themselves. However, don't count on the vintners washing themselves in Gewurztraminer.....I don't think.

Expectations of Openness

Another winery client at Wark Communications is about to take up blogging. This occasion has given me the opportunity to think about what's important in this pursuit.

One of those things is honesty and openness. I believe readers respond best to those who disclose as much as is prudent to their readers.

Oddly, this point was driven home yesterday when I was looking over a new website, not a blog, that I think might have potential. But, as I cruised around Winemarketer.com I realized eventually that the sources of this new website dedicated to on-line wine marketing had no reference whatsoever to the folk who created it. No email address (just forms), no "About Us" page, no info on the credentials of the founders and creators, nothing.

I went back to the press release that led me to the new website and realized that not even there was any information available about the creators of the site beyond this cryptic reference,"Wine Marketer was developed by a group of professional wine marketers, a wine retailer and SEO experts from multiple successful marketing firms." The contact name on the press release is "M. Phillip" and a cell phone number is offered.

The fact that there is no information about the who the "professional wine marketers" are behind this new website is not the point. The point is that this lack of information made me wary. It made me wonder.

I get the same way about wine blogs in which the owners choose to remain anonymous. Real people are always more interesting than unknown people, if only because real people have real stories. I tend to walk away from blogs that don't disclose their ownership. This might be a fatal flaw on my part...but I don't think so. It goes back to the issue of openness and honesty in blogging. If you expect your readers to stick with you, they should at least have the expectation that the object of their attention won't pull punches and will tell you what needs to be known to put their words in context.

The Story of Memorable Wines

You just never know what's going to impress.

Saturday we had a nice little dinner party here. No reason for it other than just to get together good friends. Of course, wine was involved. No one broke out any big guns that night. But, we did sample some very interesting wines that demonstrated something that is all too often the case:

An evening's wines that are the most memorable often have an interesting story to tell.

Wine #1: Pinot Noir, 2000, New Zealand (Producer Unknown)
Yes, producer unknown...or at least forgotten. The label was in tatters, though I recall that in the candlelight someone still was able to make a guess at it. However, the name escapes me. Nevertheless, what I do remember about this wine was that it cost $1.99. And it was marvelous. Marvelous not because it was drinkable or even acceptable. But, marvelous because its aromas, flavor and texture was all so harmonious. But that's not the story, is it. The $1.99 is the story. It came from a bargain bin at a local fine wine shop here in Sonoma. How it got to be listed at $1.99 I do not know, other than, of course, it was not selling at whatever its original price. I love finding wines that go so far beyond "bargain" they have no other descriptor for them

Wine #2: 1966 Rocha's Port
K&L Wine Merchants tells the story like this. "The most famous Port you've never heard of. Ridge Vineyards was looking for barrels (very scarce back then). The only way to get them was to import them - full of Port! The wine has held up extremely well, and is a true collector item."

Yes, THAT Ridge Vineyards. All of us thought this wine delightful. Yet, we all agreed it had seen better days and might have been better in 1996 rather than 2006. Yet, at the end of the night the bottle was emptied between 9 of us.

I think it it must be true that the most memorable wines we'll ever taste are those that have a good story to go with them; a story that sparks our intellect and our memory.

Wine Numbers

I just finished reading in California Grapevine an address that Dan Berger gave the Wine Press Club of New South Wales. You can also find it online HERE. (ATTN: PDF)

In it, he offers selected advice for the wineries and winemakers of Australia. One piece of advice was particularly interesting:  "Empower the consumer with factual data".

Specifically, Dan is talking about putting things like the Total Acidity and pH information on the label.

This is all pretty arcane chemical information. It's unlikely that very many people would have any idea what it means or what the difference is between a wine with a pH level of 3.55 and 3.8.  Dan understands this. He writes, "How many consumers can  interpret these numbers. This is not the point. Those who can interpret these numbers are the consumers you want to win over and hold on to."

I think he's absolutely right.

Even more than alcohol or the name of the appellation on the label, the pH level can deliver loads of information about the wine in the bottle, mostly about its structure and ability to age way. It's one thing to right on the back label, "this wine should age well for blah blah blah". It's another to write, "THIS is why this wine is more likely to age well" then offer up the number.

The Wine Marketing Strategists

There are more states today than a year ago and two years ago that allow wineries to ship wine direct to consumers. Some provide easy access to consumers without too much effort, while others have installed real barriers to their market.

While barriers put in place to essentially protect wholesalers don't serve either the consumer or the winery, but in the end it's the winery that has do decide if they want to jump through the hoops.

Paul Mabray over at the Inertia Beverage REthink Blog makes the case for wineries putting their efforts toward those states that allows direct sales to their customers with the least hoops. And of course he's right.

Among the important points Paul makes is:

"I think sales are the key to a winery's success - not sales restrictions. There are enough states that wineries are not servicing properly through good direct sales techniques to increase each of their business over 300%. Why break your neck trying to battle for that one customer in a state that restricts free trade? This is a customer centric world - you want to give customer service - unfair constraints don't allow you to do that. Work with consumers in states that do this to have them lobby to allow them their rights - their right to purchase wine."

After this initial point Paul really goes on a roll, making one of the best arguments I've seen for wineries doing the best job they can focusing on consumers in wine-friendly states, rather than spending time focusing efforts on states where  they just aren't welcome.

Over the next couple years the American wine industry is either going to take advantage of a new and growing interest in wine or they will be leaving a lot of money and good will on the table. The question is how to best take advantage of this seminal time in the American wine industry.

To understand exactly how to start to take advantage, wineries would be smart to take a look at the good and free advice being offered at the REthink Wine Blog.

Behold...French Wine Discovered in America

How far behind the curve are French wine producers in terms of tapping into the larger American wine market?

There are some pretty basic principles of this national market that need to be understood if you want to sell any significant amount of wine:

1. Price it under $15
2. Put the name of the grape (variety) on the label
3. Make the label attractive and easy to read

Pretty basic stuff. Yet, here comes an announcement from a French producer that exclaims in near revelatory terms the introduction of a French wine into the American market finally responds to what Americans want in a wine:

"Major Bordeaux Wine Producer Responds to New World Challenge: Union De Producteurs De Saint-Emilion Launches EMILIO -- A New World Style Wine from the Old World.

The announcement describes EMILIO as:

"a blend tailored to please the American palate and targeting the growing number of American wine consumers.

"EMILIO 2005 is a 90% Merlot that combines a touch of the New World with French taste and elegance. Thirty percent of the wine is aged in oak prior to the blend for a more refined wine that doesn't break the bank! The wine originates from the world acclaimed soils of Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux. The bright cherry red label and smiling face of the label beckon even the hardest to please wine consumer. EMILIO is intended to attract a younger audience as well as a more discriminating wine connoisseur -- a wine to enjoy with friends!"

Are the French so far behind the curve that the release of wine that we assume is somewhat fleshier and easy to drink and that has an attractive label is cause for an announcement that borders on, "Behold, we have invented Air"?

A BIG wine for the Good Wine Guys

In a number of states wine wholesalers have attacked direct shipment of wine to consumers by advocating that all direct sales should occur only after a person actually visits the winery in person.

On it's face this requirement, adopted most notably in Kentucky and Indiana, appears not to discriminate against any wineries. After all, whether th winery resides in state or out of state, the purchaser must go there first.

Of course this is balderdash. A person living in Kentucky who wants to have wine shipped directly to them find it much easier to head to a Kentucky winery than to a CA winery, as the law states must occur first.

Well, this kind of onerous provision, the kind wine wholesalers like so much, was challenged in the Sixth District Court. Kentucky's law that demands in-person purchasing before shipment can occur was one of the targets of the lawsuit.

Guess what? The judge in the case said that such laws are unconstitutional because they discriminate against out of state wineries.

The judge wrote in his opinion: "It is clear that the in-person requirement amounts to “differential treatment of in-state and out-of-state economic interests that benefits the former and burdens the latter.”

This is pretty significant stuff, assuming the ruling survives challenge. The wholesalers' brilliant idea that they could stop CA, WA and OR wineries in particular from shipping directly to KY residents with the seemingly fair rule that customers must first visit the winery, whether it resides in KY or outside of KY, was found to be not so brilliant.

In essence, the ruling takes off the table one more tool the monopolistic wholesalers thought they had in their arsenal for keeping the market all to themselves.

You can read the ruling HERE at the WineAmerica web site under the heading "Kentucky Court Order Favors Wineries' Right to Ship". It's not so complicated as many judicial opinions can be. The opinion by Justice Charles Simpson is straightforward and compelling

The Nexus of Wine & Perfume

My confession is this: I'm a perfume whore.   A Cologne Nut. More than anything it is the idea that man can combine so many aromas and scents into a singular potion that has the power to simply arrest arrest our mind has always captured me.

I used to keep a bowl of coffee beans in my bathroom and had at my disposal too many bottles to keep on the bathroom counter. Many of them were hid away for lack of room. And, past girlfriends tended to get the stuff as gifts for no good reason other than I couldn't help myself as I walked past the perfume counter at Macy's.

Then there is the artistry of the vessel that holds these scents. It's quite a production, creating not just the scent of the perfume or cologne but wrapping it up in a container that might help tell the tale of the essence of the aroma.

It is no different than wine, is it: a perishable product that serves merely to please us and that we consume.

The New York Times announced today that they have appointed their first ever Perfume critic, Chandler Burr, also the author of "The Emperor & Scent" The True Story of Perfume and Obsession".

Burr says:

""The creation of fragrance is one of the highest art forms crafted for the senses, the equal of painting for sight and music for hearing, and this column is about treating perfume as the art that it is. Every other true art has a serious criticism. I believe perfume should as well, for the benefit, and I hope enjoyment, of the Times reader and the industry expert both. Perfume is an aesthetically rich and complex product, one both deeply anchored in history and more commercially important than ever. My opinion is, of course, just my opinion; given The Times's weight, I take this responsibility quite seriously. I intend to treat this position with the greatest respect, and I'm delighted to serve as The Times's perfume critic."

Burr, and the Times in particular, will take a great deal of flack for this move. It will seem to many as silly, inconsequential and indulgent, all those things that make life enjoyable. And, all those things that make the connoisseurship of wine seem the same to many. Furthermore, the idea of critiquing a perfume will seem to many to be the height of arrogance, just as it does to many who contemplate the wine critic.

Yet it is true that without a healthy dose of arrogance residing in the mind of man, we would be without art, great cuisine, buildings beyond boxes, and wines that matter. And, we would be without much perfume. All artists accept the arrogance of the reviewer too and accept that the review and critique of human endeavors, particularly the ones that reach beyond the mundane, are an essential element in the creative process.

Good for the New York Times.