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Artist or Mad Scientist? The Folly of Label Disclosures

Madscientist If it were up to me, I'd want no information to be required on a wine label except that which I deem useful. In particular, I would not want to have to disclose any particular ingredients or winemaking methods on a label. It's not that there's some stuff going in our wine that's harmful. It's just that some of the stuff that does go into the wine and some of the methods that are used to make wine don't sound good.

A new survey (PDF) by WineRelease.com confirms my suspicion that consumers don't like the sound of a the things winemakers do to wines. The survey asked both consumers and members of the wine trade to respond to various wine manipulation techniques by saying "those are ok", "those are ok, but need to be disclosed or those should not be allowed.

As you can imagine the consumers and wine trade folks had different ideas on these subjects, substances and techniques.

For example, 87% of consumers said that using oak staves (planks of oak basically) inside a stainless steel tank to give the wine an oaky character was OK to do. However, 52% of consumers said this practice should be disclosed on the label. What I find really interesting is that 13% of wine trade respondents also think it should be required to disclose this technique. Fully 13% of consumers believe that using oak staves in a tank should not be allowed at all.

This kind of result leaves me with a lot of questions. It appears that 52% of consumers believes there is something about using oak staves in a stainless steel tank that demands the practice be disclosed. You have to assume their view of this technique is so negative in some way that consumes need to be warned about it. Here I think we run into two things that are perceived as negative. In some case consumers must think something about this is bad for your health. That of course isn't true. This goes to why I'd like to see no requirement on the labels for anything. Many winemaking techniques are so misunderstood that they can only have negative connotations to those who don't understand them.

Meanwhile, there is so much misunderstanding of the use of oak staves in stainless steel among 13% of respondents that they don't even believe the technique should be allowed at all. Now it's possible that some of these folks are simply offended aesthetically by the idea that wine would be flavored with oak by staves rather than barrels that can't see their way to allowing such an anti-natural technique. These folks are crazy.

A variety of other techniques are examined in the WineRelease.com survey including the use of oak chips, the acidification of wine, the addition of sugar to wine, the addition of dyes to wine and the dealcoholization of wine among other techniques of winemaking.

I'd like to have seen more folks included in the study. The opinions of only 469 consumers and 123 wine trade folks were examined. However, the results in most cases  confirm my suspicion that putting many sorts of winemaking techniques on labels is likely to confuse consumers who don't understand the nature of the technique.

It's a pretty interesting survey that should give pause to those folks who make wine about various moves to require that more and more information be put on wine bottles.

An Oscars Wine Surprise

Were there any surprises at the Oscars this year? I don't thinks so. Pobably because there was no single film that so towered over the others in hype and talk. When you've got those in the mix there is a real opportunity for upsets.

Mrk This was the first year in 10 that our house was not the scene of a multi-TV Oscars party. Instead we went to the home of a friend with about 8 others for a wine and Oscars party. Really it was a chance for him to break out many wines he'd been waiting to share with others.

While there was no upset at the Oscars, among the 15 or so wines we tasted there was not just an upset but a wine moment that was unexpectedly startling as to cause silence and a pause for a moment of reflection.

This moment came when two dessert wines were brought out right around Best Editing:

2000 SINE QUA NON "MR.K",  THE NOBLEMAN, BOTRYTIS  VIOGNIER (375ml)

NV YALUMBA MUSEUM RESERVE MUSCAT (375)

Two dessert wines from regions as far as you can get from each other. The 2000 SQN hails from EdnaYalmusc Valley here in CA, the Yalumba Muscat from Australia. On the other hand, they are both that rare breed of wine that Robert Parker Jr., estimated to be rated in the upper 90s. The SQN got 96 points, the Yalumba got 98 Points.

By my estimation the Yalumba was the better wine. It is intensely flavored, rich and filled with fig, chocolate, coffee, maple, prune and spice flavors. And it goes on and and on. The SQN is more medium bodied and delilvers carmelized apple, ripe pear, apricot and marmalade flavors. A beautiful wine, but I'd drink the Aussie Muscat first...any day.

The real interesting difference between the two wines is price:

Yalumba Muscat: $25
SQN Viognier: $180

Now, these are aftermarket prices, both wines being purchased at auction. I don't think we are looking at prices that reflect a huge demand for Botrytised Viognier from California. What we are looking at is what happens when one wine and one winemaker are so valued by the market, so hyped, so in demand that the price of the wine has no relationship to the rest of the market. This is not a judgement. Just an observation.

But here's the bottom line: If you are a person who enjoys dessert wines, you have at your disposal a wine so amazing and so well priced that you really are obligated to buy the Yalumba Muscat. Share it witih friends if you must.

Thingamagiggers, Liquor Wholesalers & the Pornographers

"I want to be treated like a pornographer - sell on the Internet, sell across state lines, no franchise rules. Anyone over 21 who chooses to buy my product has it available."
-Chris Pearmund, Pearmund Cellars

Can you imagine? Begging to be treated only as good as a pornographer.

That's what it has come to in Virginia where rather than doing the noble thing and allowing that state's wineries to operate in a free market, they force them to work within a structure that can best be termed a "thingamagigger".

Last year Virginia's wholesalers convinced state legislatures that the dangers inherent in allowing Virginia's wineries to do what they've been doing for years as they grew their industry were so great that the only solution was to force them to take a substantial cut in pay and give that cut to the wholesalers.

The problem? Virginia wineries were selling their wines directly to retailers and restaurants. I know. Pick yourself up. You thought that this sort of evil had gone the way of slavery, that it no longer sullied our civilization.

Well, the legislators came to their senses and decided that their move last year was improper and they needed to give that simple privilege back to their state's wineries. How would they do this?  Behold, the "Thingamagigger":

"Under the new system, which will go into effect as soon as the governor signs the bills, and the state can set up the corporation, a restaurant owner places an order with the state-run wholesaler. The wholesaler forwards the order to the winery. A winery employee (who has been "leased" to the corporation) moves the case of wine to a separate section of the winery (which has been "leased" to the corporation), then loads it in a truck (which has been "leased" to the corporation) and delivers it to the restaurant. The restaurant owner sends a check to the corporation."

I swear, that is not made up.

The whole reason this thingamagigger is in place is because the state's wholesalers have convince legislators that they are of such feeble means and abilities that they must be protected from the competition that would arise if out-of-state wineries had the same right to sell directly to Virginia retailers and restaurants as Virginia wineries do...a fact of life in the law that resulted from rulings in the 2005 Granholm v. Heald Supreme Court decision and another court decision that came down in Washington State last year.

So in order to protect these poor, feeble wholesalers who claim they need protection from competition, the Virginia legislature must create a new thing: a Thinkgamagigger.

Wouldn't it have been easier to just treat the wineries like pornographers?

Thinking on Grapes, Jimmy Carter, Racism and Pinot Gris

Grapethinking There's something about good, solid, honest passion for the subject matter that can take a blog a long way. Combine that with thoughtfulness and a dab of keen insight and all of a sudden you've got something that I find really attractive.

That's what I'm finding at GrapeThinking.com, a blog by Ruarri that I noticed when they were kind enough to mention this blog in a recent post. It has been up and running for about 4 months.

GrapeThinking appears to be ambitious enough to not just write and explore wine but evangelize on its behalf:

"Wine is profoundly important in a way most of us can’t imagine. Reasons being: wine inhabits the same realm as literature and art. Literature and art are the only two things that separate man from beast."

But what I'm finding compelling mostly is the breadth of topic matter that gets explored here. In not too short a time I cam across a post that speak to racism and bigotry, Jimmy Carter, and your standard Pinot Gris. While I like this diversity, wouldn't it be fun to read the post that brings all these topics together?  Maybe Not.

It's a a very good wine blog I'm ashamed I've not noticed earlier.

Rooting For Carneros

Carn2
I keep rooting for Carneros. I can't help it.

Over the years it got bad raps from critics, has experienced an identity crisis, seemed to be at the top of the Pinot heap before being overtaken by other regions and has to dance between between being both Sonoman and Napan. Those are some big chips to carry around on your shoulders.

But have you tasted the wines?

Check out this list:

Saintsbury, Schug, Etude, Acacia, Donum Estate, Sangiacomo, Hudson, Durell, Hyde, Ceja, Pats & Hall, Talisman, Ancien,

There are some pretty devoted folks, esteemed wineries and hallowed ground associated with this appellation that suggests we ought to pay perhaps more attention than we tend to.

The folks in Carneros think this is the case too and they are taking their case to the trade in the form of  the upcoming Pinot Plus Trade Auction that the Carneros Wine Alliance is putting on. It's a beauty show that is likely to pull out all the stops. Napa Valley does the same sort of thing with it's "Premier Auction" happening this weekend. It's a chance for the Carneros producers to pull put on their game face and remind folks why they were among the first appellations to be noted for true, terroir-based quality.

I've been lucky enough to work with two establishment Carneros wineries; the type that helped define the appellation early one and continue to demonstrate its enormous potential and it's place as one of the top sources for great California wine: Saintsbury and Schug. Both are Carneros Icons. Both have folks at the helm who have zero faith in the appellation, but rather experience to back up their contention that the region is where great grapes are grown.

I'm looking forward to Pinot Plus. Not just because it's a chance to taste through a number of the region's Pinots, but because I'm going to taste through the other wines that the region seems to have found great success with: Syrah and Merlot. Carneros is a hugely varied appellation with micro climates abounding over each hill. There are spots that deliver varying degrees of warmth and others that are bone chilling and wind swept.

I guess what I'm rooting for is that Carneros take on a separate identity from Napa Valley and Sonoma. I want to see it understood as a source of unique wines (particularly the vineyard designated sort). Part of this desire must relate to the associations I've had with some in Carneros and with it being pretty close to my back yard.

Wine & Love...Online

Winelovers It has been quite a while since I dated. I've been off the market for a long time. Yet, it hasn't escaped my notice that the "market" has changed. Or at least the way people interact in the marketplace of coupling has changed.

My first date, independent of my parents driving me to the movies to meet Robyn Williams, happened after I got the independence of my drivers license. To get that date scheduled I had to maneuver through my own fears, self doubt, a not-to-hip appreciation of fashion, and identifying the girl who I thought might be attracted to me just enough to say yes.

And I remember why I thought this particular girl might be attracted to me: we had something in common, something we could easily talk about without risk of me going silent or contemplating the sky while she stood in front of me. Both of us had been sent to detention for talking during a class. We were talking to different people, but nonetheless we both knew the sting of persecution at the hands of a bad social science teacher.

She agreed to go on a date with me and indeed we both both "bonded" after discussing our views on detention, our parents reaction to detention and what makes for a good teacher (eyes in the back of their head, we both determined, did not make for a good teacher).

I started thinking about this long past episode upon looking over WineLoversMeet.com .

This dating website describes itself this way:

"WineLoversMeet.com
is a new concept in online dating designed specifically for people who enjoy wine...As you know, people enjoy associating with others who share the same common interests...It's hard enough to connect with singles that you're compatible with. We've just narrowed the playing field a bit."

I think this web site is just Awesome!

Imagine if I could have screened a few hundred 16 year olds for those who had an appreciation of what it meant to earn detention after 6th period. WineLoversMeet.com, like all the other dating sites on the web, is the ultimate ice-breaking tool. And that's often the hardest part in dating a new person or even thinking about dating a new person: how to break the ice without looking like a dork.

While you can't screen potential dates for their favorite wines, you can screen for location, age and sex...among other things. However, the cool thing is that you can at least have the expectation that wine will be among the topics that allow you to break the ice.

American Wine Blog Awards Winners

Awbasmall_18 The two things I was hoping to demonstrate with the American Wine Blog Awards was the diversity of voices and the excess of talent that exists in the world of Wine Blogging. This was important to me for a number of reasons.

Wine writing has traditionally been the domain of large books written by great palates and magazines devoted to a reverential approach to understanding wine. The talented folks who have dedicated themselves to writing about wine and educating the public about wine built created a new kind of sub genre inside literature and reporting and criticism. Quite an accomplishment.

But then came wine bloggers and not too long ago. They had the disadvantage of being bloggers. That is, blogging simply doesn't have the cache that books and magazines carry. Yet, anyone who has been reading them for any time must realize there is some very impressive and important work occurring in the world of wine blogs. I hope the American Wine Blog Awards have demonstrated this.

With this introduction, we present the

2007 American Wine Blog Awards Winners

BEST SINGLE SUBJECT BLOG:
The Wine Collector Blog

http://www.vinfolio.com/thewinecollector

Steve Bachmann of Vinfolio seemed to come out of nowhere in this category. The competition was thick. But take a look at the way Steve approaches issues of concern to wine collectors and wine aficionados. It's a real service. Steve keeps his blog's eye trained on the interest of his readers with every post

BEST WINERY BLOG
Pinot Blogger

http://www.pinotblogger.com
Josh is the proprietor of Capozzi Family Winery in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County. Here's the thing. Josh hasn't released a single wine yet. But, his readers have followed him as he names his winery, gets a logo and label design created, deals with winery architects and even as he learns the wine industry. It has been a superb, intriguing effort backed by strong writing and insight.

BEST WINE PODCAST OR VIDEOBLOG
Wine Library TV

http://tv.winelibrary.com
Gary Vaynerchuk has created something of a sensation with Wine Library TV. His devotion to his audience and to getting off regular episodes is just the beginning. It's like watching "Live Action, Full Contact Wine Tasting." More important, Gary's shows combine a real reverence for wine with an attitude that bleeds fun!

BEST WINE BLOG GRAPHICS
The Good Grape

http://www.goodgrape.com
Here's a blog that is entirely unique. Its content is focused on business and culture as related to wine. That could be pretty dry. Thankfully it's not because the author is dedicated to understanding the experience of wine. That pre-occupation with experience shows through in the visual experience he gives his readers. It's a downright beautiful presentation.

BEST WINE REVIEWING BLOG
Vinography

http://www.vinography.com
Alder Yarrow does not just review a wine, he slays it, dissects it and serves it up for his readers...guts, sheen, pimples, beauty and all. The reviews are in depth stories that bring the reader into the belly of the beverage. But then there are the ratings.  Anyone who knows Alder will be at a big tasting looks forward to his mammoth reports on every wine he tasted. It's a treat...as is this venerable blog.

BEST WRITING ON A WINE BLOG
Dr. Vino's Wine Blog
http://www.drvino.blogspot.com
Tyler Colman almost makes it nearly unfair for everyone else. His knowledge of the wine industry, the politics of wine and of wines in general is deep and broad. This shows up in his sterling prose that are straightforward, precise and thought provoking.

BEST WINE BLOG
Dr. Vino's Wine Blog
http://www.drvino.blogspot.com
Tyler Colman has developed a dedicated fan base that was able to put his blog over the top in these awards. Why do they follow Dr. Vino's writings? Lots of reasons. The bottom line is that it gets it right on a number of levels. The content is diverse. The posts are short enough to be read all the way through yet never superfluous. Reading Dr. Vino is like hanging out with a really cool, very knowledgeable wine friend, not Wine Geek.

Congratulations to all the winners...now go Blog!

How To really KNOW someone

I've always said that if you had no more information about a person than what's on their bookshelves and what they keep in their wine cellar you could probably figure out all you need to know about them. I stand by that assessment.

I think, however I might have a corollary to "Tom's First Law of Personality".: What gifts do their family give them on their birthday.

What can you tell about a person who gets these things for their birthday AND are VERY pleased with receiving them?

1. A large bottle of Maker's Mark Bourbon
2. A Huge Bag of Whoppers Malt balls
3. A box of Belgian Chocolates
4. A homemade Shadow box filled with their father's WWII medals with his photo from that era
5. A copy of Madden 2007 Football for the Xbox

There must be some message in there.

Figure out what it means and you will have a much better take on this blogger.

Wine EX: A Ground Breaker Goes

Winex_1 It would be easy to easily suggest that "magazines come and go in the wine industry" in a cavalier fashion. But the fact is, magazines rarely come to the wine industry. When they do, it's a big deal. It was a big deal when Wine X came to the industry.

Wine X promised to deliver Generation X to wine marketers. With it's somewhat irreverent attitude yet deathly serious proposition that wine needs to be fun, it delivered that audience.

Now Wine X Magazine is officially done...gone.

In my nearly 17 years in this business I've never come across a media project as controversial as Wine X Magazine. Much of that controversy resulted from the attitude, broadcast always across the cover as "Wine, Food and a Slice Vice."

When Wine X Magazine first started publishing, its creator Darryl Roberts was inundated with folks who seemed to want to see him die. No one had treated wine the way he and his magazine did. The attacksRoberts were motivated by the idea that wine is serious business, that it should be treated as such and anyone who dared strip away the veil of conceit was probably a miscreant who needed some manhandling. In fact the attacks on the magazine were very similar to this position, taken from a Letter to the Editor writer at Decanter Magazine positioned below their story on the demise of Wine X:

"Wine is, and should remain, something to which young adults can be encouraged to aspire - as a right of passage into the next phase of their adult development. Even if successful, attempting to make wine 'cool' to the so-called X-ers will result in wine becoming distinctly 'un-cool' to them as they mature and the risk is that they will be lost for ever."

This is exactly the kind of elitism that Darryl saw throughout the industry and attempted to combat and prove wrong with Wine X.

Roberts took it all in stride and found various opportunities to shoot back at his critics.

When some thing goes away that has been around for a while we are prone to attempt to assess its final value. What did it contribute. There is no question that Wine X forced the industry to at least consider there was a different way to market to young adults. That question is no longer even asked. It's assumed to be an important question and the focus is on how to do it well.

I also believe that Darryl Roberts unique method of reviewing wine had a profound influence on wine reviewers. Darryl. regularly compared wine to Rock Stars gone bad, scantily clad women with berries in their bosom and other cheeky but always entertaining ideas. Today, the review of wines with pop culture allusions is commonplace.

Wine X Magazine always used the XXX Scale to rate wines. He didn't think the 100 point scale made any sense at all. If you want to understand Daryl Robert's ironic side, all you need to do is take a look at the page on his website where reviews once sat and see where he is pointing folks for reviews now.

Along the way, Wine X produced some magnificent reading that often led to scandalous and fascinating ideas. You can find many of the articles here.

If you know Wine X magazine you may or may not have enjoyed it. But don't ever think it didn't make a difference.


American Wine Blog Awards Voting is Closed

Awbasmall_17 Voting in the 2007 American Wine Blog Awards is now closed. I want to thank all 2,846 of you for voting and making this celebration of wine blogging a HUGE success.

Winners in each category will be announced next week.

Goodbye Mob, Hello Liquor Wholesalers

Fatclemenza I recently received an e-mail from a person who works in the alcohol trade. It was an e-mail in response to this recent post about a scathing account of the Texas Alcohol Regulatory system. The e-mailer didn't want his name used, but did suggest I consider the following:

"The partnership between Government and alcohol distributors works. Distributors deliver huge amounts of cash to politicians and the politicians deliver protection against competition to the distributors. This leads to more powerful distributors who have even greater means to give cash to politicians. If this reminds you of how the Mob used to conduct business with the authorities it should. It's identical. Except for one small matter. It's legal for alcohol wholesalers to act this way."

It's an interesting point.

Recently in Texas the two largest wholesalers there gave $1.6 Million to elected officials in a 10 week span following the November elections. These "donations" came at the same time the wholesalers were lobbying to change a law that would allow them to become much more powerful and profitable in the state at the expense of others in the alcohol trade.

Wholesalers not just in Texas but across the country are constantly asking that laws be changed or laws be kept in place. It does not matter how silly the new law may be or how archaic and detrimental to free trade the old law may be. The commonality between all the things the wholesalers ask for is that it benefits them and makes them more powerful at the expense of alcohol producers, alcohol retailers and consumers.

Take for example this situation. Last year the Associated Beer Distributors of Illinois lobbied to change the law in Illinois to both stop any direct shipment of wine to consumers and to remove the privilege IL wineries had to sell directly to retailers and restaurants.

What do these two position have in common? They both hurt wineries and will increase the profit of wholesalers. Consumers and local retailers would also be hurt. By the way, the Associated Beer Distributors of Illinois might be the most power state wholesaler organization in America.

But that aside, how do these folks justify this blatant power grab at the expense of others?

"Without the three-tier system to protect state revenues, in most cases, direct shipping to consumers evades the State Liquor Gallonage Tax and Sales Tax resulting in the potential loss of millions of dollars to the State of Illinois," said Donna Spagnola, ABDI president and president of Central Beverage Co. "It also protects the public by decreasing youth access to alcohol via the internet, mail order and by phone. The three-tier system is tried and true and its value must be protected."

Besides the fact that this entire statement is an inaccuracy, it all comes back to the "3 tier system".

This "system" was put in place in the early 1930s after the end of prohibition. The 1930s. Let me reiterate: The 1930s.

The State-mandated three-tier system demands that producers sell to wholesalers, wholesalers sell to retailers and restaurants and the retailers and restaurants sell to consumers. The idea was to prevent the pre-prohibition problems associated with producers having an interest in or influencing retailers and saloons in was that led to excessive drinking and eventually to prohibition. The justification for the three tier system was to assure the product wasn't tainted and to make sure no undue influence led to excessive marketing tactics.

The 3 tier system was put into place in the 1930s!

Today, 70 YEARS LATER,  the main social concern regarding alcohol is that minors not get their hands on it. It should be pointed out that wholesalers have absolutely no role in assuring this does not happen. Furthermore, the existence of the three tier system plays no role in helping stop this from occurring. In fact there are almost no examples in Illinois of anyone being fined or prosecuted for selling alcohol to a minor that was delivered via direct shipping. However, there are hundreds of examples of minors getting their hands on alcohol using the traditional three tier system.

Wholesalers would argue that direct shipment of wine to consumers ought to be stopped because of the threat that minors will use it to obtain alcohol. Where is the call to shut down bars and liquor stores...where minors almost always are found to get their alcohol? There is no call. You see, these are places the wholesalers sell to and make a profit off of.

The argument that direct shipment of wine to consumers prevents states from collecting taxes is equally without merit. Show me a winery or retailer and I'll show you a check book.

Yet, the wholesalers like the three tier system and defend it as though nothing has changed in 70 YEARS. In the 1950s there was no Internet and only very inefficient ways to deliver alcohol over long distances. In the 1950s there were relatively few wineries and literally 1000s of wholesalers all competing with each other. today there are nearly 5000 wineries and no more than three or four dominant wholesalers in each state.

Yet because of the wholesalers successful "partnership" with the various states, little has changed in 70 years. Well, that's not true. For the most part, the Mob has gotten out of the business of liquor distribution and now the "wholesalers" have that role.

Anything the average wine consumer can do about this? Yes.

Sign up with Free the Grapes and Act when they call attention to another attempt by wholesalers to manipulate the alcohol regulatory system to their benefit and against your interests.

Sign up for the Specialty Wine Retailers Association  mailing list and keep informed of when your right to obtain wine from retailers around the country is compromised by Wholesalers manipulations.

American wine Blog Award Judges: Eric Quanstrom

Quanstrom Eric Quanstrom not only knows on-line information delivery, he knows wine. This is make him perhaps among the very best suited to be a judge for the American Wine Blog Awards. When you add to that the fact that he is a daily consumer of wine blog content and you get the perfect storm of judgeship qualifications for the American Wine Blog Awards.

Quanstrom is the Director of Sales and Marketing at Appellation America, that amazing portal of all things wine in North America that he has played a key role in making the first stop for those seeking information and inspiration from wine. His background is impressive. A sommelier in San Francisco prior to getting his MBA, Eric has also been ensconced in the world of on line reporting and information delivery. He previously served as West Coast department head of the Fox On-line properties (FoxSports.com, FoxNews.com, Fox.com) for News Corporation in Los Angeles. Under his direction, Quanstrom’s team produced the first ever Super Bowl Halftime Show live Web cast.

All this gives Eric a unique and highly qualified eye to train at the world of wine blogs. He knows quality as well as utility. But if you every meet him you'll also find he's a member of the wine geek squad.

Voting Coming to an End in Wine Blog Awards.

Awbasmall_16 Voting for the winners of the 2007 American Wine Blog Awards is coming to an end.

We will close down voting late in the evening on Friday, February 16. If you have not yet voted let me suggest that you do. You're vote could make a difference.

Click the box at the top left of this blog to make your voice heard.

We think we should be able to announce winners by Tuesday.

Hearts and Balls and Wine

Heartsbonds Yesterday was one of those days in which everything about the day DEMANDED you get out the good stuff, pop the cork, and celebrate.

On the one hand it was Valentines Day. Now I know and agree this "holiday" is probably useful mainly to keep Hallmark and restaurants in business. But if you are going to make up a Holiday, why not make up one that focuses on the depth of your romantic love for another person? You could do a heck of a lot worse. Plus, it gives us a really good excuse to open the good stuff...or at least order the good stuff off the menu. Maybe I'm a fan of Valentines day because it helps keep the wine business healthy. But maybe it's because I like a Holiday I can devote to Ginny.

On the other hand, yesterday's Day of Love happened to be combined with the day on which the most important event of the year occurs: Baseball's Spring Training Camps Open.

If you look in the dictionary under "HOPE", you'll see a picture of baseball players doing stretches under the Arizona and Florida sun. That's right. With winter sill more than a month from being over, hope has returned with the opening of Spring Training.

If this isn't a reason to open a good bottle of wine, sit back, sip it, close your eyes, and run through your mind "The Catch" or #700 or even the agony of the SF Giants' World Series Game 6 fiasco, then I don't know what is.

American Wine Blog Awards Judges: Cyril Penn

In addition to being smack in the middle of the wine trade where he has a view of nearly every issue that affects the industry and consumers, Cyril Penn is also an editor. What all that means is that he sets the tone at the most important American wine trade publication for how a team of writers will cover the issues that affect the wine industry.  It made him an obvious choice as a judge in the American Wine Blog Awards.

Wbm Cyril has been the Editor-in-Chief of Wine Business Monthly, Wine Business Insider and winebusiness.com since 2000. It's a huge job. One of the things I've admired about this group of publications and Cyril's direction of them is that they approach stories about how to clean a stainless steel wine tank every bit as seriously as a story on the implications of a multi million dollar winery buy out. That's Cyril's doing.

Cyril has been in journalism for 20 years. Before beginning to write about wine in 1998 he covered business issues for a variety of publication and specialized in covering the energy industry.

What he brought to the American Wine Blog Awards was a keen journalistic sense, an keeen idea of what is news, how best to cover it and a practiced editor's eye. We should not forget that while blogs are personal efforts for the most part, they are also journalistic efforts.

Wine Blog Awards Judges: Michael De Loach

Michael It would have been so easy for Michael De Loach to simply take up with the near-empire that his father, Cecil, had built at De Loach Vineyards. Sure, as a teen and young man he worked in the vineyards and wineries but in the end, he chose to go it alone. Michael De Loach left the family business and took off into the Advertising Industry in Florida and made quite a name for himself, winning numerous awards for his efforts and running accounts of some significant girth.

I hope I would have done the same thing if my father had created an opportunity for me to walk into a made business.

I hope too I would have eventually come home...as Michael did.

Today Michael runs the sales and marketing at Hook & Ladder Winery, the new De Loach family project that came on the heels of Michael's father selling what really was an iconic modern California wine brand built on the foundation of an amazing set of vineyards in the Russian River Valley. In two short years, Michael has helped build the Hook and Ladder brand into a very good sized winery with distribution in most of the states.

What I think sets Michael apart and what led me to ask him to be a judge in the American Wine Blog Awards is his keen understanding of how interpersonal relationships really dictate not only how the wine industry works but how they drive the consumer marketing of wine. This same thing is often what sets a good wine blog apart from an average wine blog.

Since I began working with Michael and Hook & Ladder it has been clear that he understands the significance of the world of wine bloggers. When I first suggested we send samples off to a number of wine bloggers he looked over the new on-line world of wine journalism and came back to me with a resounding..."Duh! Of course we should."

There's nothing that better recommends a person for admiration than the quality of being astute.

Peeking Under the Wine Industry's Skirt

Skirt What exactly does it mean when a group of talented folks can release a wine brand upon the world that at once delivers wine that is the clear equal in quality of wines priced at double and three times their wines, and yet they can make a good living selling this wine?

It doesn't quite mean that Fred Franzia is correct ("no wine is worth more than $10"...or something to that effect), but it might mean that many of us who are looking for wines well above the average in quality are often paying too much for the privilege of rising above the commonplace juice.

There are so many factors that go into the assessment of a product's value: scarcity, reputation, pre-conceived notions of what is "good", the product's appearance, what others say about it, what it would take to duplicate the benefit we believe a that product will bring us. The list is long.

One of the things that was driven home as I walked out of a meeting with a wine marketer today was that we are probably paying too much for REALLY good wine. I also learned that in order to confirm this you need to be willing to search for value.

Value in wine is not something that is relatively low priced. Value is experiencing something that far exceeds your expectations for quality at the price you paid for it.

The dirty little secret in the wine industry is that if you lift up the industry's skirt, underneath which resides its scandalous and tantalizing secrets, you find a product that, even at the highest levels of quality, is priced far beyond ...I mean REALLY far beyond...what it cost to produce.

What you find when you look underneath the wine industry's skirt is not quite obscene....But it sure is a little dirty.

Real Corruption

"The essential definition of corruption in a representative democracy is the usurpation of public authority to the advancement of private interests."
HOWARD WOLF

Howard Wolf is the public's representative on the Texas Sunset Commission, a state body gathered together to examine alcohol regulation in Texas. This is a man with no interest at all in anything having to do with the alcohol industry. When he examines the state of alcohol regulation in Texas he comes to the solid conclusion that it is in place for the advancement of private interests; that it is in a state of corruption.

Howard Wolf wrote what is the most articulate and scathing  critique of the state-mandated alcohol distribution system that I've read in years. And if you want to understand  what is at the very heart of that critique, read this line from his "position paper" that he sent to the Sunset Commission, of which he was a part:

"the regulatory structure initially created in 1935 (is) becoming obsolete and mostly irrelevant to the original goal of protecting the interests of the people of the State of Texas."

This is the case across the country in state after state.

For example, in IL there is proposed law, written by the wholesalers there, that would allow wineries in and out of the state to ship directly to Illinois residents, but prohibit retailers from doing the same. This only serves the wholesalers' interests.

For example, in Texas retailers there may ship wine to Texans, but out of state retailers are prohibited from doing so. This only serves the interests of the wholesalers.

For example, in Virginia, the law prohibits wineries in that state from selling their wine to retailers and restaurants and forces them sell their wine to a wholesaler, who then sells it to retailers and restaurants. This law only benefits the wholesaler.

The examples by which alcohol regulation overwhelming favors the private interest of the wholesales to the detriment of the producer, consumer and retailers are so vast they could take up the content of an entire blog. To put it in Mr. Wolf's words: "A statute that was designed to promote public health, safety and welfare has, over time, been subverted by the economic interests of the entities it was intended to regulate. Now, the legalized system operates primarily to prevent competition, protect anti-competitive conduct and otherwise thwart the functioning of a free market in the manufacture, distribution and sale of alcohol beverages."

HOW WEIRD HAS IT BECOME?
Imagine a system of distribution of alcohol that has been demonstrated to be the source of nearly all the alcohol that gets into the hands of minors. Imagine that this system is so convenient for minors to get alcohol through that minors do so regularly and it is documented in every state.

Now, imagine a system for alcohol distribution that has had very few examples of minors obtaining alcohol through it.

If you were concerned minors and public health....which system would you seek to shut down?

It turns out that alcohol distribution model #1 is brick and mortar liquor shops and model #2 is direct shipping to the consumers. Yet, it's the latter that has come under the most pressure to be shut down. What is  here is that model #2, the model that wholesalers and legislators and state alcohol regulators have worked hardest to shut down, is the model from which wholesalers rarely profit.

This is is the kind of thing Mr. Howard Wolf is talking about when he write: "The essential definition of corruption in a representative democracy is the usurpation of public authority to the advancement of private interests."

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1933 AND 2007
The wholesalers across the country, who have purchased near complete protection for their financial interests in the form of restricted competition, simply do not serve the public good as their tier was originally imagined to do.  They do nothing to assure that counterfeit products don't end up in consumers hands that could not easily be undertaken by other entities. They have no advantage in assuring that producers don't own and control retailers and pubs that is more effective than the state and retailers assuring this. They do nothing to assure that minors do not have access to alcohol since they have no dealings with the public. And they are not in any position to more efficiently collect and remit taxes than retailers or producers are.

We do not live in 1933 any more, when the original "three tier system" of alcohol regulation was thought up. We live in 2007, when new technology, new products, new protections, new social concerns and new economic demands define the market for alcoholic beverages. Yet, we see it insisted across the United States that the system developed over 70 years ago is perfectly fit to today's needs. Amazing!

Yet the system that Mr. Wolf, in his brilliant "position paper", calls corrupt lingers on and is mandated by the states. This state-mandated system, for as long as it will exist, serves to more boldly and financially empower the middeman tier of alcohol distribution. And with this ever increasing protection and financial power wine wholesalers go about fixing the regulatory system even further to their own financial ends.

What's needed are more Howard Wolfs, more individuals who challenge the system—publicly, more members of the retail and producer tiers that take an interests in challenging and shining a light on a system of alcohol distribution and regulation that serves private rather than the public interest.

A good start would be to read the article about Mr. Wolf then to read the Position Paper Mr. Wolf has written and distributed.







The "Google" of Wine Blogs

Lesson of the day: Sometimes you don't know you need it until it appears.

Alawine.com has created a Wine Blog Search Engine. Now how cool is that? For a long time I've used google or technorati to figure out what's happening with wine on blogs. Not the most efficient way to search wine blogs specifically, is it. The nice thing about the4 AlaWine.com wine blog search is of course that it's wine blog specific. The search engine takes your search term and looks through 300+ wine-related blogs. That works!

The only thing on my wish list is that the results can be sorted by date. But I have a feeling that will come later when programming time allows.

Many folks know AlaWine.com for it's ranking of blogs: AlaWine.com's Top 100 Wine Blogs. The rankings are quantitative and take into account results from search engines, Google rankings and technorati results.

The Top 100 Wine Blogs has recently been updated by Alawine's Ken W. So if you are wondering or if you are curious, go check out the new rankings.

AlaWine.com is turning out to be the "Google of Wine Blogs".

The Wine Blog Awards Judges: Greg Walter

Walter Now here's a career progression: bottle shop sales person to Editorial Assistant at the Wine Spectator to Senior Editor at the Wine Spectator to President of the Wine Spectator to Proprietor of his own publishing house.

Those are just the step by step highlights of Greg Walter's career that most folks would raise their eyebrows at because the words "Wine Spectator"(where he spent 14 years helping to build it into the benchmark for wine publishing it is today) are located in that progression. But when you get down to it, Walters is all about delivering stories, wine ones in particular. There are few folks who have had their fingers in more publishing and information ventures in the wine business as Greg. This is the reason I wanted him as a judge for the American Wine Blog Awards.

It's a crude way of doing this, but I want to highlight Greg's background by listing the projects he's been involved with over the years:

Pinot Noir Report (editor and publisher), WineCountry.com (editing and publishing consultant), Wine Country Living Magazine (consulting President and publisher), The Underground Wine Journal (publishing consultant), Winetasting.com (VP Content), Appellation Magazine (Publisher, Editor), "Chalone: A Journey on the Wine Frontier" (Co-Author/Editor), Wine Business Monthly (editorial and design consultant) Smart Wine Magazine (Editor/Publisher).

Today Greg is best known as the editor, publisher and reviewer at his The Pinot Report, a newsletter devoted to all things Pinot Noir in America and a recipient of a James Beard Award. But as the previous paragraph indicates, there's a lot more going on behind The Pinot Report that takes Greg's time.

So, when Greg looks over a set blogs and evaluates them, he's looking at them with an eye that is among the most practiced in determining quality, value and utility of information and information delivery.

Greg operates everything he does from his Carneros Group. You can find more information about him and his projects at that site. This blogger is is VERY proud to have had Greg as a judge of the 2007 American Wine Blog Awards.



The Wine Stained Teeth Are Worth It

Wineteeth The folks over at PS I LOVE YOU, the Petite Sirah Appreciation organization sure do know how to put on an event.

Ginny and I skidded through the rain this evening to check out the variety of Pets at Rosenblum Cellars in Alameda, California where the "Dark & Delicious" tasting put on by Jo Diaz and PS, I Love You was held. It was a feast...in every sense of the word.

You really have to gear up for a Petite Sirah tasting. This is a varietal that is very unforgiving in its youth. It is so often a hugely stuffed, substantial wine with rip roaring tannins and teeth staining density of color. The only way to mitigate this character is with food. And that's something they had a lot of at Dark & Delicious. I ate lamb fixed five or six ways, pork delivered in numerous styles, beef on a variety of skewers and other edible delivery vehicles, a couple types of prawns, 14 different types of cheeses, one great Shepard's pie, and chocolate in more ways than I can count.

There was lots of mitigation goin on.

My preference is to drink Petite Sirah at 10 years of age. It could be that I'm just a tannin wimp. But I don't think so. Petite Sirah ages so damn well that at ten years you still tend to have great dollops of fruit left, softer tannins, a color that puts most 10 year old CA wines to shame and that a somewhat heightened, though much better integrated pepper character that sometimes it is a bit too upright in the wine's youth.

MY PETITE SIRAH REVELATION
My real Petite Sirah Revelation was a 25 year old Foppiano Petite that we served at tasting I put on the for the media in 1994. It was the oldest wine in what I recall was a 15 or 20 year vertical tasting. We wanted the media to walk away thinking Petite Sirah = Foppiano Vineyards. I knew that wasn't going to be a difficult sell. At the time there just weren't many wineries devoted to the grape and perhaps only 4 or five wineries that had made anywhere near  the number of varietally marked Petites as Foppiano had.

My main concern was the current vintage and the barrel sample. Those were the wines I wanted the Foppiano and the media to focus on. In my mind, the 1969 Petite was on the table for retrospective purposes only.

Well, damned if that wasn't the wine everyone was talking about. I should have known. But I didn't. But I understood when I tasted it: Fresh, exotic, staying power in the glass, tannin fruit.

Today there are many more Petite producers. It works well for todays I-love-them-big drinkers. The cool thing about Petite is that it's big NATURALLY. Tonight I enjoyed the Rosenblum Rockpile, Foppiano Estate, Biale, Harrington, Stags' Leap, Concannon and Ripken.

Try this varietal. Explore it. It's not the amazing value it used to be but you can still get outstanding Petite Sirah at a price far less than outstanding examples of most other varietals.

Help Get Out the Wine Blog Word

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The work to get out the word on the great wine bloggers that were named finalists in the American Wine Blog Awards, as well as the vibrancy of the wine blog world, is underway.

A press release has been issued over the wires via BusinessWire. It has been indexed on Google, Yahoo and will hopefully catch the attention of editors and writers across the country.

We've also sent press releases out to wine media and wine writers across the county as well as to wine bloggers.

The whole idea is to bring attention to the effort, commitment and quality that exists across the world of wine bloggers, to get people thinking about this new addition to the wine writing genre.

One thing that any of the finalists or those who also write wine blogs in the same region of a finalist can do is reach out to your local newspaper. Try the Food/Lifestyle Editor or the Business Editor. Let them know about the finalists in their area or let them know that you are a part of a growing group of wine bloggers that are taking over the world. All it takes is an email or a call.

If anyone needs phone numbers or names of specific writers in their neck of the woods, just let me know.

Oh, and before I forget: GO VOTE!

American Wine Blog Awards Finalists Announced

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First, it's important that I thank everyone who took the time to nominate the various blogs. I have to thank the judges (more on them below) who looked over all the blogs nominated in each category and came back with their finalist. That was a lot of work.

On with it...

CLICK HERE TO VOTE IN THE 2007 AMERICAN WINE BLOG AWARDS
(you can also click on the graphics on the top left of this page)

You will only be able to vote once in each category. When you go to vote you'll probably want to have two browser windows or tabs (if you use FireFox) open so you can use one window to evaluate the blogs while keeping the ballot in the other window.

The finalists in each category are:

BEST SINGLE SUBJECT WINE BLOG
Ship Compliant Blog
The Wine Collector
Rethink Wine Blog
Lenndevours

BEST WINERY BLOG
Cima Collina Cellar Rap
Pinot Blogger
Dover Canyon Winery Blog
Stormhoek

BEST WINE PODCAST OR VIDEOBLOG
Napa Valley Wine Radio
Grape Radio
Cellar Rat Podcast
Wine Library TV

BEST WINE BLOG GRAPHICS
Wine Waves
The Good Grape
Vivi's Wine Journal
Lenndevours

BEST WINE REVIEWING BLOG
Jamie Good's Wine Blog
Quaffability
Wine Waves
Vinography

BEST WINE BLOG WRITING
Wine Camp Blog
Dr. Vino
Vinography
The Pour

BEST OVERALL WINE BLOG
The Pour
Vinography
The Good Grape
Dr. Vino

It's a very impressive collection! Congratulations finalists.

The folks who methodically went through all the nominated blogs and came up with these finalists were hand picked by me. I wanted folks that knew the wine industry and were familiar with world of web/wine 2.0. I also wanted folks who knew journalism and writing. Finally I wanted folks I knew and trusted and would be guaranteed to do the work that was necessary. I'm going to tell you more about these folks later. But for now they are:

Judd Wallenbrock, President of Humanitas Wines, GM of Michel-Schlumberger Winery
Michael De Loach, VP Sales and Marketing at Hook & Ladder Winery
Sarah Donnelly, Direct Sales and Wine Club at William Selyem
Eric Quanstrom,
Director of Marketing at Appellation America
Cyril Penn, Editor of Wine Business Monthly
Greg Walter, Editor of The Pinot Noir Report
Jo Diaz, Owner Diaz-Communications

Thank you again to the judges and to all of your who offered nominations.

Now...GO VOTE

Enlightened Wine Shipping Policy

There is a bill on the table in, of all places, Georgia that if passed by the Assembly there and signed by Governor Perdue would make that state among the more liberal in the area of direct shipment of wine.

The new bill reads in part:

"Notwithstanding any other provision of this title to the contrary, any person currently licensed in this or any other state as a winery or a manufacturer, wholesale dealer, importer, or retail dealer of wine who obtains a wine direct shipper license, as provided for in this Code section, may ship up to 24 nine-liter cases of wine annually directly to a resident of Georgia, who is at least 21 years of age, for such resident´s personal use and not for resale."

Currently a winery may ship into Georgia if they do not have a distributor in the state already. This legislation would extend the privilege to all wineries and all retailers. It is a law that takes account of the variously efficient ways by which taxes can be remitted by out-of-state wineries and retailers and is a further acknowledgment of the fact that direct shipment of wine is not a threat to the health of minors.

Furthermore, this bill would give Georgian wineries the opportunity to service a growing customer base, something that other states that allow their wineries to ship have found is exceedingly good for the industry and the economy.

And of course, as well as allowing out of state retailers to serve the Georgia market of wine lovers, it would allow Georgia retailers the motivation to develop their own direct shipping program if they desired.

Bottom line: This is a stellar bill.

However, if it gets through the assembly unscathed and unharmed and remaining an enlightened piece of economic reform in that state, it still must get past the Governor of Georgia. Governor Perdue vetoed two wine related bills last year, one that would allow diners to take home unfinished bottles and another that would allow wineries to sell wine at festivals. The Governor also opposes allowing alcohol to be sold in Georgia on Sundays, a controversy that is currently underway in Georgia as a bill to that effect is on the table and it appears to have the broad support of Georgians. If the Governor is true to his past behavior, it would not be surprising if he vetoes this direct shipping bill.

It seems likely that the opposition to this bill will come from wholesalers and religious conservatives. The argument will primarily be, "the children will get drunk and die off of $25 Cabernet they ordered on the Internet, paid an extra $50 to have shipped and and who waited at their parents door with a fake ID in hand  and convinced the delivery man that those pimples and baby face are merely a result of long days at a stuffy office.

In any case, this is a bill that every wine lover in Georgia should get behind. It's an example of enlightened economic reform, genuine respect for consumers and an acknowledgment that we live in a different time than 1933.

It's House Bill 159 and was introduced by

A Noble Event...Despite What the Critics Might Say

Ps I recall reading somewhere, probably in one of his books, that Robert Parker did not consider Zinfandel a "Noble Grape". What a great debate this would make. But that's not my point. What I'm getting to is that if Zinfandel is not a "noble grape" then Petite Sirah probably can't even claim courtesan status.

This of course is not the view of those who belong to PS I LOVE YOU, the Petite Sirah advocacy organization that is gearing up of their first ever consumer tasting: DARK & DELICIOUS.

On their website they are quite clear about their mission: "To promote, educate, and legitimize Petite Sirah as a noble varietal, with a special emphasis on its terroir uniqueness."

What makes a variety "Noble" is probably subject to debate...and a good one at that. However, what I think is undebatable is the unique character of Petite Sirah. If there was ever an opportunity to examine that uniqueness it's probably at DARK & DELICIOUS:

Thursday, February 8, 2007
5:00 to 8:00 p.m.
Rosenblum Cellars 2900 Main Street, Alameda, CA
$40 per person

I'm told there are about 100 tickets left and they should be going fast.   You can buy tickets at the PS I Love You website.

The really cool thing about this tasting is that each of the 30 Petite Sirah producers at the event will be paired up with a restaurant that will be serving a dish to match the Petite Sirah. Given the forceful style of the Petite Sirah grape and the wine it makes you can count on some pretty forceful food pairings.

A number of new Petite Sirah producers have come on the scene over the past decade or so. For a while there those of us who really loved this varietal kept going back to the versions created by Foppiano Vineyards, Concannon, Fieldstone, Bogle and Stags' Leap. Happily we can still go back to these long time producers and advocates of this wine as they all continue to make great examples. But there are others now too.

Savoring the Green

I had a very interesting wine this weekend that, happily, made me think.

Sage It was a "Sonoma County Merlot. Vintage 2003. Price: $32.00. It was a wine that stood out for one main reason: It had noticeable "herbal" qualities in the nose that was followed up by the same slightly "green" character on the palate.

These days there seems to be very few rules in the winemaking business. But there is one steadfast rule: AVOID GREEN HINTS IN YOUR WINE LIKE YOU WOULD AVOID THE PLAGUE....and for the same reasons. It can kill you...or at least a brand.

I'm not exactly sure how this anti-green rule came to reign. Maybe it has something to do with all those VERY green and herbally cabernets that were once produced in the Monterey area some time ago and that led to great disappointment in the potential for that region (of course they overcame that disappointment and the herbal/tomatoey character of those earlier wines).

Maybe the anti-green rule is simple the result of powerful critics criticizing this character in a wine.

Maybe the anti-green rule is merely a reflection of the domination of the American sweet tooth.

I'm not sure why winemakers must expunge any hint of 'green" or herbal character from their wine, but there is no question that this character is undesirable.

I happen to like it. Not as a primary characteristic, but as part of a mix of character in a wine. I recall when  there was a "grassy" style of Sauvignon Blanc often coming out of the Dry Creek Valley region. It was thought by many at the time that this was a part of the Dry Creek Valley terroir expressing itself through the Sauvignon Blanc grape. You find this character in  DCV SB far less often these days. SB is supposed to be tropical!

If I was in the mood for a Monday Morning Rant, I might be inclined to suggest that many of us who criticize over saturated and over extracted and over alcoholic wines these days are actually criticizing a lack of complexity in too many CA wines. But it's Monday and I'm not sure a rant is in order.

Suffice to say, I got a kick out of sticking my nose into a glass of blueberry, sage and mocha Merlot. There was a lot more to think about, to appreciate, to savor.

The Evolution of Wine Blogging

We I think it's significant that some of the wine world's most important movers and shakers sat through a presentation that argued Blogs are a phenomena that need to be heeded.

That was exactly the message delivered by Marc Engal at the Wine Evolution conference in Paris this week. Wine Evolution looks at the industry from a global perspective. It attracts high level participants from around the wine world and attracts speakers who specialize in looking at the wine world from a global perspective.

Marc Engel is a Project Director at BRS research group here in California that provides high levelMarcengel analysis of trends. Marc's specialty is wine. At Wine Evolution he sat on a panel that explored the question: "How to Improve your Sales & Marketing strategy in the World's biggest market? Others on the panel included Patrick Merrill of Merrill Research, USA, Laurent Guinand of GiraMondo Wine Ventures, and Vic Motto of Global Wine Partners LLC, USA

Although I was not there, I'm also told that at a recent Unified Symposium seminar blogging was also a main topic of conversation.

The report on Engel's presentation concerning wine bloggers at Wine Evolution relates that Engel understands the growing importance of this medium:

"US market researcher Marc Engel of B/R/S said wine bloggers were important for producers. ‘Pay attention to bloggers, accept you don’t have total control, participate in consumer discussion and, finally, be authentic,’ he implored."

Seeding the minds of these folks at a conference like Wine Evolution is the kind of thing that helps turns a peripheral "thing" like wine blogging into an important "movement." People talk. They talk about what they heard an authority say at a conference. The media hears the message from an authority. This in turn gives them more reason to report on the phenomena. More people read about wine blogging. More attention is focused on wine blogging. The phenomenon grows.

There's something happening out there with respect to the impact of wine blogging.