Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog

Is Wine One Letter Away From Disaster

I'm a curious guy. That's why I decided to do a quick google search today on "Wine and Swine Flu". Who knows, maybe something interesting will pop up. But right when I finished giving Google instructions on what to find for me the search sentence hit me in the face: "Wine and Swine Flu". Holy Cow. What if it there were no "S". What if it was the "Wine Flu"?

Pork Futures have dropped and there are reports of consumers pulling back considerably on their pork eating and purchases. Now, let's be clear, there is no danger of contracting Swine Flu from fixing up a batch of Baby Back Ribs or grilling up some Pork Tenderloin. Nevertheless, folks appear to be extra cautious, perhaps to the point of over reaction.

But it just goes to show how various things, even ludicrous ideas, can pound an entire industry. And it got me to thinking, what would bring the wine industry to its knees?

Certainly a virus or disease named the "Wine Flu" would cause sales to drop, whether or not the virus was aptly named. But unless a particularly virulent and smelly form of Cork Taint can infect a person and make them smell like trichloranisole, I think the industry is safe.

But if you want to worry about a real potential problem, go visit Highway 29 in Napa at noon in the summer. It's bumper to bumper. What happens when a pedestrian gets plowed over by someone driving to their 7th tasting room? What would be the political reaction? What would be the legal reaction. What restrictions would be put on tasting rooms? How would it effect travel to wine country?

Here's a good one. Remember the Tylenol Scare? What if it were the Wine Scare? What if some sick bastard who's dog died and wife had left him decided to do the syringe-through-the-cork in a few different cities in a few different stores? Im guessing a 65% drop in wine sales within 48 hours of it being reported.

What about scandal? What would be the consumer reaction to reports that a number of wineries that labeled their wines "Cabernet Sauvignon" were not in fact using that grape but a much something else? Or if it were reported that a number of wineries that labeled their wines "Napa Valley" or "Sonoma Coast" were actually using Fresno grapes. There would be a reaction by consumers. I guarantee it.

The point is fragility. Markets and economies and industries are fragile and can be disrupted easily and quickly. The saving grace is that while there are often long last repercussions to market disasters, markets, economies and industries are all capable of recovering quickly. Still, let's tale note that the "S" and the "W" are right next to each other on the keyboard.

Why Pinot?

John Winthrop Haeger reigns supreme in the world of North American Pinot Noir publishing. His latest from last year, "Pacific Pinot Noir: A Comprehensive Winery Guide for Consumers and Connoisseurs", along withhis earlier work, "North American Pinot Noir",  have made him the very largest of fishes in a very small pond of authors investigating the world of Pinot Noir on the North American contitnent.

I've always contented its easier on the soul and the ego to be a big fish in a little pond than a big fish in a big pond. Fewer sharks.

So, it's no surprise that Haeger would open the World of Pinot Noir with a talk to the members of industry, trade and consumer set that dragged themselves downstairs at the Cliffs Hotel at 8:30am to kick off a few days of Pinot indulging.

Haeger's topic: "The Origins of UNsustainable Viticulture and Where Pinot Noir Is Grown Now".

I've often pondered the virtues of different sorts of titles for talks. You can take the "Haeger Approach" and go for "explicit directness". Or you can take the indirect approach. That would look something like: "Pinot Noir: The Viticultural Screw Up Factor."

Either way, it is not surprising that Haeger's talk would be primarily a history lesson (beginning with talk of viticultural projects dating to 10,000 BC). Haeger is a trained historian, specializing in Chinese history and language. Not so much any more. Today Haeger is a terrific presenter of wine information.

Haeger ran through 12,000 years of vinticultural history in about 40 minutes, ending by placing special emphasis on the Pinot Noir grape. His talk was fascinating. But most interesting of all was the observation that for the past 40 years, the number of acres under vine world wide has been decreasing. Yet, Pinot vines and pinot production have both been increasing.

Why Pinot? That's what I'm wondering?

I suppose there is a good reason or a set of reason that tell exactly why Pinot Noir has increased its acreage while other, better known varieties have not. But I don't know what that set of reasons is. But I have some theories;

1. Pinot, given its modest body, is easy to drink. The explosion of new wine drinkers want "easy to drink."

2. Pinot is a "Prestige" wine. A great deal of the new Pinot vineyards have cropped up in areas that are relatively new to winemaking and there is a desire to make a mark on the winemaking world.

3. It started from a relatively small amount of plantings to begin with.

Too simple?

The FERMENTATION 2008 Wineogram

History and Gravitating Toward the Authentic

I've thought about it many times but have never come up with a satisfactory answer to why it is I gravitate toward things historical. My masters is in Diplomatic History. Most of my vacations have taken me to historic places and cities. My library is full of histories. And my movie collection tends toward historical dramas. My first Wine PR client was Foppiano Vineyards: Founded 1896.

Rued Winery is Wark Communications' most recent client. The first member of the Rued family to work in the CA wine industry was Henry Rued. He arrived in Napa Valley to plant vines for the Beringer Brothers in 1876. He put down his own vineyard in Sonoma County in 1882.

And so goes it.

The best I've been able to determine is that I have an appreciation for time and perspective. I either gravitate toward things historical due to this appreciation or this appreciation is a byproduct of something else. If it is a byproduct of something else then the best I can determine is that "authenticity" motivates me. Either way, Rued Winery in Dry Creek Valley and the Rued family make me smile and inspire me in any number of ways and I'm pretty excited and honored to be working with them.

One of the aspects of Rued Winery, something that doesn't fall into the category of historical, that fascinates me is the fact that they have a husband and wife winemaking team: Steve and Sonia Rued. I think this is a great story that will translate into a number of mediums. I don't know they do it. I know I couldn't. Clearly the winemaking spouses and I have different dispositions with them taking the prize for patience.

This patient duo, the history of the Rued family, and their lovely, small production wines will take center stage as I help them tell their story. In the end, those that hear the story will hopefully feel as though they've discovered something new. They'll certainly understand the meaning of "authentic" upon hearing and experiencing the Rued Family and their wines.

Wine Handyman Needs Advise

I'm not much of Handyman or Do-it-Yourselfer. I can mow a lawn like nobody's business and hammer a nail. But taking a space and creating something in it? Not me. I didn't get the "spacial" or "engineering" genes.

So it's with great trepidation that I have decided to attack the space you see in this post and create a place to store up to 10-15 cases of wine. However, before I begin and potentially dislodge the house from its foundation, I thought I'd run it by readers of FERMENTATION.

My thought is a simple one: nail pre-made wire wine racks against one side of this skinny space under the stairs and put a few lights (battery powered—I wouldn't touch wires if my life depended upon it) on the walls. As for that funky space way in the back...maybe an unbroken case or two can be slid back there. The key is being able to access whatever wine goes into this space.

So here's my question. Is there any reasonable way to assure this space does not get over 65 degrees?

The closet is in the middle of the house and under a flight of stairs. The furthest back part of the space where the case goods go backs up to the outer wall of the house that faces northwest.

This is really the only problem with wine isn't it? It's so damn temperamental. It's not enough that you get nice little racks for the bottles to lay down comfortable upon. It's not enough that you inventory the stuff and keep track of it. It's not enough that you organize it so you can find what you want and so that the Chardonnays aren't forced to mingle uncomfortably with the merlot (what would they talk about about?). No. You also have to keep the stuff at a fairly constant temperature or they'll go and die on you...or at least ripen quickly into old age. They are very ungrateful guests.

I figure I could buy some fancy refrigerated unit that might fit into this weird space, but it would block access to the back of the space and not hold the amount of wine I need to place in here. Or I could invest in turning an entire room in to a place to store wine. But I'm not that nice of a host and not all the wines that will be staying with me have proven themselves worthy. So, it's this little closet and simple wire racks.

Anyway, I'm building these guests their own home and want to see if I can accommodate their basic needs while they are at rest.

Any advice would be appreciated.

It Was So Damned Good It Was Scary

I ate a PopTart today. Specifically, it was a strawberry-filled, glazed PopTart that was toasted. It had been a while, quite a while, since I'd eaten one of these things.

It was so God damned good it was scary. I felt felt compelled to drop at least two more in the toaster and gorge myself on a breakfast of..of...well, I don't really care what they are made of...of PopTarts

The key to the PopTart's amazing goodness, is it's combination of sweetness, with something more than a hint of savoriness with that hint of toasty-ness that results from the slight toaster burn on its edges.

I  realized something as I ate it. If there was a wine that satisfied me so completely as this Strawberry-filled, glazed PopTart did, it's very likely I'd spend my days drunk and useless.

I tried to think back to remember if I ever so fully enjoyed a wine as much as I enjoyed this Strawberry PopTart. The closest thing I could recall were a few icewines that I've devoured in the past, caring nothing for the inebriation they brought on. So I wonder if, in my case, it's just a matter of having a sweet tooth? I don't think that is it because I've not taken to other types of sweets the way I took to this PopTart this morning.

I'm wondering if there was some sort of secret ingredient in the PopTart; if there was some sort of chemical or drug pumped into it brought on cravings and satisfaction. I wondered if such a thing was illegal and what affect it would have once injected into wine.

PopTarts Make me think. So I decided I needed to look through the ingredients:

ENRICHED FLOUR (WHEAT FLOUR, NIACINAMIDE, REDUCED IRON, THIAMIN MONONITRATE [VITAMIN B1], RIBOFLAVIN [VITAMIN B2], FOLIC ACID), CORN SYRUP, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, DEXTROSE, VEGETABLE OIL (SOYBEAN, PALM, COTTONSEED AND/OR HYDROGENATED COTTONSEED OIL† WITH TBHQ AND CITRIC ACID FOR FRESHNESS), SUGAR, CRACKER MEAL, CONTAINS TWO PERCENT OR LESS OF WHEAT STARCH, SALT, DRIED STRAWBERRIES, DRIED APPLES, DRIED PEARS, CORNSTARCH, LEAVENING (BAKING SODA, SODIUM ACID PYROPHOSPHATE, MONOCALCIUM PHOSPHATE), CITRIC ACID, MILLED CORN, MODIFIED WHEAT STARCH, GELATIN, CARAMEL COLOR, MONO- AND DIGLYCERIDES, SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE, DATEM, PARTIALLY HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN AND/OR COTTONSEED OIL†, MODIFIED CORN STARCH, XANTHAN GUM, SOY LECITHIN, COLOR ADDED, NIACINAMIDE, REDUCED IRON, RED #40, VITAMIN A PALMITATE, YELLOW #6, PYRIDOXINE HYDROCHLORIDE (VITAMIN B6), RIBOFLAVIN (VITAMIN B2), THIAMIN HYDROCHLORIDE (VITAMIN B1), FOLIC ACID, TURMERIC COLOR, BLUE #1.

Maybe the secret ingredient is in there somewhere, but translating this amazingly long list of stuff I'm not familiar with nor understand is well beyond my pay grade.

I don't know if I'll ever find out what the secret ingredient or combination of ingredients is that makes my heart go crazy upon biting into the chewy, sweet, savory goodness that is a Pop tart. Nor do I know whether that secret ingredient might be somehow foisted upon wines.

The only thing left to consider is what wine goes with Glazed, Strawberry Filled PopTarts.

The Velvet Bite

I'm going to buy this wine...because I just think it's terribly cool that a winery would honor one of the greatest jazz vocalists in the history of the genre. (Have you ever heard Ella sing "mack the knife"?!!?)

However, I'm probably not going to drink this Domaine Carneros Sparkling Wine while listening to any jazz, including Ella. Here's why.

I've long believed that even given the range and the diversity of the Jazz genre, the absolutely most appropriate drink to accompany Jazz is something that attacks the senses, throat, palate and body with a Velvet Bite.

No pure wine I've ever consumed possesses this quality.

By "Velvet Bite" I mean, first, that sensation of a subtle sting that warms just as the sting diminishes when the liquid is poured over your palate. You need to feel the relief of the alcohol sting diminishing just as the alcohol also begins to warm the throat and stomach. 

There must be a soft clamping down on the palate that does not linger, but also is not escapable. The sensation alerts the senses in a momentary shock like no wine can do, yet fades away, relinquishing its bite in favor of alertness and warmth.

This state, I think, is best suited for listening to Jazz. Bourbon, Whiskey, Scotch and even cognac and armagnac are the proper drinks to pair with Jazz; best suited to provide a velvet bite.

Further, I believe the full affect of pairing the Velvet Bite with Jazz occurs when a shot of any of the above beverages is taken in advance of sipping on a second round of the same. And, how this shot is performed can affect the pleasure of the pairing even more if done right.

The shot, while it should be taken in all at once, should not be targeted at the throat so that it slips down past the palate with minimal contact. On the other hand, taking time to swish the beverage around the palate will also ruin the experience. Rather, the throat should be half to 3/4s closed when the shot enters the mouth. The partially closed throat will promote a slow movement of the bourbon over the palate, followed in quick order by it slowly sliding down the gullet. The technique delivers the bite, but does not sear the palate. And at the same time, a decent amount of alcohol enters the body and the blood stream in relatively quick fashion.

Yes, I'm suggesting that Jazz is best appreciated with a slight buzz. Not a "drunk". But a warm, comfortable, smirk inducing buzz.

It should be noted that after the initial shot of our preferred beverage, the second round can be sipped, and probably enjoyed even more due to the palate, body and mind having been properly prepared by the initial shot.

Wine is simply too week to stand up to the challenging nature of jazz; the subtle, complex and sometimes jolting nature of jazz rhythms require the body to be properly prepared with an anesthesia that both weakens one's grip on convention, yet provides a bite.

Thus, Jazz is best paired with beverage.

After Great Prodding

I was hesitant to do this. But after great prodding I decided to. It seemed fun.

As I've mentioned before, you won't find this sort of thing happening at FERMENTATION. But I can do it occasionally at other venues, including Wine Spies.

Damn nice wine, too. This particular wine had my most favorite characteristic in bigger reds: Licorice flavors. I'm a big fan of anisette also. I'm not sure what draws me to this particular characteristic but I do tend to look for it in wines. I'll find it most often in Cabs and Syrah.

If you buy or try this wine, do let me know if you detect that same flavor.

Didactic Marxist Ideas and Wine....Hmmm, Yum!

In the comments section of an earlier post this week about a new book on philosophy and wine, Richard from A Passionate Foodie made note that there was in fact a second book recently published that also deals with the convergence of wine and philosophy: "Questions of Taste: The Philosophy of Wine", Edited by Barry C. Smith.

I obtained that book and like the earlier one I posted about, "Wine & Philosophy: A Meritage of Ideas", it tills deeply into this topic with essays on is wine art, the objectivity of taste, wine vocabulary and language theory and "wine epistemology".

Two books in one year on what might be the most obscure wine-related topic that exists: wine and philosophy. The audience for these two books is small and as obscure as many of the points made in them. Yet, there they are. It borders on a trend.

What combination of forces would lead to this mini rush of wine and philosophy books?

I think it must largely be due to the huge increase in interest in wines, and wines from a variety of sources, as well as the increase in people working in a way that is connected to wine: it means more people are thinking about wine. And when more people are thinking, there are a portion of those folks thinking about things obscure.

Now, these two books, published so near each other, simply could be an example of chance, a coincidence. But it's not fun to attribute things to chance and coincidence if only because it offers no good reason to write about it on a blog. So, let's stick with: more people think about wine.

Let's be clear though. The publication of two books on philosophy and wine will not necessarily lead to any upsurge in the number of folks thinking about the meaning of wine.  Let's face facts, when you have the phrases "didactic Marxist or Christian Ideas of art", "a wine may 'speak' of terroir" and "it has no intellectual or cognitive content" all in the same paragraph you just aren't going to convince too many devotees of wine to read further. Where the hell are the wine ratings????

Nevertheless, I'm going to advocate that you at least try one of these books. After all, wine is too interesting to simply be a hedonistic pursuit. My argument is that the joy it brings is heightened if it brings you intellectual stimulation also and helps to further define the meaning of life.

A Meritge of Vintage Ideas...and Meaning.

Even before I review it, which I will be doing, I want to bring your attention to a new book that will be published on October 29:

Wine and Philosophy: A Meritage of Vintage Ideas
Editor: Fritz Allhoff

I was very excited to learn of the publication of this compilation of papers and essays that seek the nexus between wine, the experience of drinking wine and philosophy. I've come to believe that few pursuits are as ripe as wine drinking for helping us to think about our world, how we perceive it and how we interact with it. This book address exactly that issue.

Finding "meaning" in the appreciation of wine and in the ways we talk about it is probably not high on the list of those things that we are prompted to do upon opening and downing a bottle of Shiraz or Riesling. But I think it should be. I certainly think it is an event that is well suited to spur deeper contemplation of ideas.

We come close at times to doing just that on this blog and we see it on other blogs too. Consider the questions of terroir or wine reviews. What does it mean to insist that some wines have a "connection" with a particular place? Are we talking merely about those chemical elements that influence the character of the wine? Or are we, in the French view, exploring what "place" means not only in a geographic and geologic sense but also from a cultural perspective? And for that matter, how does own connection with a particular place influence our understanding of the meaning of a wine?

Consider the act of reviewing a wine. We know it is impossible for one person to sensually experience what another person experiences when they both drink the same wine. So, whatever common experience there is must be conveyed via written or oral communications. When we both declare the wine to be "full bodied" do we really mean the same thing? Are the words we use to communicate our experience clouded by unique experience or even by our social position?

The discussion of wine can, and I think should, lead us to deeper explorations not just of meaning, but explorations of the meaning of our own experience with life and people.

This is one of those rare books that actually lead us down this path.