Our Sponsors

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 License.

Asking For Wine...In A Good Way

Over the years I've found myself in a position of asking my colleagues in the wine industry and  folks in the hospitality industries to give me things. "Donations" they are called. Some people are better than others at doing the asking. I fall somewhere in the middle. In asking for wines, airline tickets, hotel rooms, memorabilia and other items, almost always for auctions, I have learned one thing: You get your best results when you tell the potential giver that the donation will help the cause more than it will help them. Hand out

I'm doing this again for Specialty Wine Retailers Association as we gear up for an important fundraiser in Chicago where we hope to raise funds to move hearts and minds toward re-opening that state for consumer purchases of wine from out of state wine stores. That option was stripped from consumers and retailers in 2007. I'm looking for Big Bottles, Bordeaux Futures, Verticals, Horizontal Collections, airline tickets, Guest Houses in Wine Country, Limos Services, etc, etc.

Here's how the request sounds:

"Joe, this is Tom at SWRA. I need your help. I need to fill an auction in Chicago with great lots so we can raise funds to change the laws in that state to allow direct shipment of wine by consumers. Our event is on August 6. If  you can donate a six liter bottle of your Cab, you'd be helping us tremendously and we need it if we are going to open that state back up. All I can promise you in return is a mention on the program and a guarantee the money will  be used wisely to fight the good fight."

The reason I never promise more than good will is because I've been the object of requests on too many occasions to count. The PR Guy is often the first person people go to when they ask for these things. I've listened to schpeal after schpeal about how my clients will receive tremendous exposure by having their wine available for auction. And I've been to these events. The exposure is minimal, at best. And I can't bring myself to puff up reality.

At some point, the person being asked to help simply has to decide if they can afford to help and if the cause they are helping is worthy of their support. Those are really the only two questions that someone being asked to give must answer. On top of that, these are questions that wineries in particular are confronted with constantly. and they usually have pat answers that resemble "no"...unless they are taken by the cause.

Of course, my cause and the cause of Specialty Wine Retailers Association is critical and I can't imagine why anyone would say "No" to my requests. And this kind of attitude and ridiculous optimism is key. If you've ever spent time asking for things, you know that "NO" is coming your way. It's a lot like selling vacuum cleaners though—something I have experience with: If you hear enough "No's" you'll eventually get to the "Yes". But it's a matter of asking and asking with honestly.

By the way, all donations to this worthy cause and worthy event can be made by calling Tom Wark at 707-935-4424.




Will Dedicated Wine Lovers Support Quality?

Apamlogo The best source of independent, web-only wine writing will no longer be free beginning July 6th.

That's right, Appellation America recently and quietly announced it would be transitioning to a subscription format on that date. Though this move will significantly reduce its readership, it undoubtedly will have a much more active and dedicated readership and one that demonstrates real appreciation for outstanding content.

And yet the bottom line is that the work of Appellation America, including its features, tastings and database of wineries, will no longer be available to anyone and everyone.

The move by Appellation America introduces an important question: Will the most dedicated wine lovers and wine industry folks, those who have always devoured and craved and praised high quality wine reporting and prose, put their money where their mouth is?

The cost to subscribe to Appellation America, according to its announcement, will be $49.95 for an annual subscription—or, $4.16 per month.

But let's layout what we are talking about here. Appellation America is the most significant and serious vessel for wine journalism to emerge this decade. From its beginning it offered the somewhat unique argument that the wines of Texas, Missouri, New York and Michigan were equally important and deserving of attention as those of California. It made the positive case that "place" is more important to the consumer than brand, varietal or winemaker. And it backed all this up by going out and assembling one of the most impressive collections of wine writers ever placed under one masthead.

If there was ever an online wine publication that was worthy of $49.95 per year, I suspect it is this one.

Yet, I also suspect that 96% of those of you reading this won't break out your credit cards on July 6th.

Why?

Sure the economy is tough. But many people will happily walk into Starbucks and pay their $4.00 for a super duper coffee drink on a daily basis, even in the bad economy. The fact is, I think, that the availability of free content is more persuasive to people than is the quality of content. And this is so, I think, whether we are in a boom or bust economy. It's also an ugly truth.

I personally can't afford to not have access to the Appellation America content because my ability to do my job as a member of the wine industry and as a wine publicist and my need to continually educate myself and my need to have real intellectual stimulation depends on having access to great ideas and great coverage of my industry.

Corrupting the Wine Market With Spin

Image One of the greatest joys of working in wine public relations has been the remarkably collegial, helpful and generally encouraging attitude of my peers. In the 20 some odd years I've worked in this area of the wine industry I can't recall a single instance in which I was disappointed with my personal interaction with other wine PR folks. And I can't count the number of times other PR people have helped me in significant ways.

Still, there is something of a negative connotation associated with the idea of being a Public Relations Professional, PR Guy, Flack, Hired Gun. Honestly, I really don't care. You can call me and my peers anything you want, but we'll keep smiling and doing our work of corrupting the market with spin.

It's those smiles I'm looking forward to seeing tonight as the newly reformed Academy of Wine Communicators gather for an event at the CIA at Greystone in Napa Valley. If you work in Wine PR in any capacity, I suggest you attend. At the very least you'll discover that you really do have a network of peers who take their work seriously and are likely to help you do a better job at your own.

The AWC first formed I'm guessing about a decade or so ago. But it didn't get very far if I recall. The new incarnation is being driven by Michael Wangbickler of Balzac Communications, one the oldest and most respected Wine PR firms in America. Michael appears to me to be enthusiastic in all things he does. I suspect that character trait will be on view as he guides the AWC down the road.

The American wine publicist needs all the help we can get. This is not an easy job if your client or employer is a winery. Consider that there are more than 5,000 wineries in the United States alone. They all do the same thing: They ferment fruit juice, put it in a bottle, try to put an attractive label on it and try to sell it to consumers or retailers or restaurants. Trying to use smart public relations techniques to set your client's wines or employer's wines apart is not easy.

Interestingly, you'd think that under such competitive circumstances you'd see PR flacks like me and my peers use some pretty gimmicky techniques. But you don't. Occasionally you see a funeral for corks or something like this. But it's generally straight ahead, traditional PR using the new and old tools of the trade and forming relationships with writers to whom we try to pitch compelling story ideas.

It's not surprising, I hope, that frustration can often results from the attempt to be fresh and unique and different and compelling in your PR campaigns and techniques. This is why I think the Academy of Wine Communicators is a good idea. Having a vibrant and active resource of peers to gather with and bounce ideas off of and to learn from seems to be a critical aspect of one's professional development.

Again, if you work in or around wine PR, I suggest you look into the Academy of Wine Communicators.


The State of Wine Blogging—5 Years In.

I count 2004 as the birth year of wine blogs. Given that only slightly arbitrary date, the wine industry finds itself with only five years under it's belt of dealing with this somewhat chaotic, but impactful form of communication. And on the eve of the second North American Wine Bloggers Conference I have some questions and thoughts about wine blogs.

1. HAS OR WILL THE WINE BLOG TAKE DOWN PRINT MEDIA AS THE PRIMARY FORM OF WINE INFORMATION FOR CONSUMERS AND THE INDUSTRY?
To this point the traditional wine media is not in jeopardy of being replaced by wine blogs as the go-to source of information. While there must be upwards of 800 wine blogs out there, the readers still tend to be early adopting, internet-savvy folks and industry members. More importantly, no single wine blog has emerged as a go-to, important voice in the world of wine for either consumers or the wine trade that is read in very large numbers. This must happen, in my opinion, before blogs can emerge as a dominant source of information. One voice must lead the way, attracting readers, who then give credence to the format, thereby creating confidence in the format and leading readers to others.

Why this important wine blogging voice hasn't emerged is likely a simple thing: The groundbreaking, informed, well-marketed voice is hard to find in the wine industry. As I look out across the wine blogosphere right now, I don't see any contenders for that position. This does not bode well for the advancement of the format.


2. WHERE ARE THE HARD FIGURES ON THE READERSHIP OF WINE BLOGS?

Many wine bloggers understand that there is potential for generating advertising revenue from their blogs. I believe too that blogs with ads give confidence to readers. However, to generate serious advertising revenue it is critical that readership figures for the various blogs are available. They are not currently available. This fact has slowed down the development of the format and the lack of figures will continue to slow down its development as a serious format.


3. DO WINE BLOGS CARRY ANY INFLUENCE?
Not yet. At least not much. How do I know this? For one, it's very difficult to find any shelf talkers that actually carry quotes from wine bloggers. This might be a case of laziness and a lack of creativity on the part of marketers who have not figured out how to use the various reviews of wines by wine bloggers. But, I think it is more likely that marketers simple don't believe there is enough weight carried by any particular wine blogger to justify replacing a review of 85 points or more by a mainstream publication or a food pairing suggestion on the shelf talker.


4. ARE ETHICS AN IMPORTANT ISSUE FOR THE WINE BLOGOSPHERE?
No. I've met a number of wine bloggers. Few if any are prone to make unethical choices. They certainly aren't any more prone to make journalistically unethical choices than traditional media. Yet, wine bloggers talk a lot about this issue. Why? It's because ethics are primarily something that professionals think deeply about. That tells us something about the aspirations of the wine blogging community.


5. SHOULD WINERIES AND WINE COMPANIES CARE ABOUT OR INTERACT WITH WINE BLOGGERS THE WAY THEY CARE ABOUT OR INTERACT WITH TRADITIONAL WINE MEDIA?
Not if they can't figure out a way to successfully use the work and words of wine bloggers as a third party endorsement for their brand, product or service that makes their brand, products or service more valuable and profitable.

The Three-Tier System and Consumer Access To Wine

The three-tier system of having a “distributor” in between the producer of wine and the wine retailer was put into place after prohibition to prevent the abuses associated with “tied houses” prior to prohibition. Unfortunately this system has merely served to duplicate the corruption that it was created to fix.

Prior to prohibition, suppliers wielded so much power they could control retailers by threatening not to supply them. Retailers became “tied” to particular alcohol producers. The "tied" retailers were forced to sell a single manufacturer’s product. Producers also forced retailers to promote their brands without regard to public safety. These circumstances exasperated alcohol abuse problems and were often cited by Prohibition’s advocates as one of the key problems with alcohol in America.

To assure this measure of control and this kind of abject corruption would not happen after repeal of prohibition, most states mandated the “second tier” to sit between the producers of alcohol and the retailers of alcohol. They created the state-mandated monopoly known as the “wholesaler tier”.

Today, almost 75 years after the Repeal of Prohibition, every state has only a very small number of wholesalers that control the flow of alcohol. They determine which brands will be sold in wine stores and restaurants. The obscene power once wielded by producers of alcohol over 70 years ago today is in the hands of alcohol wholesalers.

Because most states mandate that alcohol flow from the winery to distributor to retailers, distributors find themselves in the enviable position having a monopoly on how wine is distributed in each state. This, for obvious reasons, has made them enormously powerful and wealthy. As the numbers of wholesalers in America has dwindled, usually as a result of buyouts and mergers, that enormous power has concentrated in a handful of distributors that operate in multiple states. 

Additionally, because there are such a small number of alcohol wholesalers in each state that must, by law, be used by producers to get their wines to retailers and restaurants, the wholesalers are under no pressure to provide high quality service, as they would be if they were subjected to competitive market forces.

A number of consequences flow from these circumstances:

-In most states few wholesalers are responsible for “marketing” hundreds, if not thousands, of wines, which they are unable to do for all the brands with any care or success

-Retailers and restaurateurs are at the mercy of the small number of wholesalers who provide them with wine. The retailers and restaurants must choose only from the wines that wholesalers provide. This is despite the fact that there are many other wines they’d like to carry on their shelves and menus but are by law prevented from purchasing because they must deal only with wholesalers.

-Restaurateurs and retailers, just as in pre-prohibition times, often feel obligated to not criticize and follow the directions of the wholesalers for fear they will be “cut off” from the limited supply they actually have access to.

In essence, the corrupt circumstances that the three-tier system was meant to clean up after Prohibition ended now exist again, only with the wholesalers in charge.

While the corrupt circumstances of pre-Prohibition are with us again, much else has changed. Today there are upwards of 5000-plus wineries in the United States, with producers located in every state. America has become a wine-drinking nation with per capita consumption continually rising over the years and with America poised to overtake France in total consumption.

Yet, just as more wholesalers are needed to handle the demand and the growing number of producers, their number has been reduces to usually no more than three or four distributors in each state handling all distribution. In some cases, such as Texas, two wholesalers (Glazers and Republic) control 99% of the market.

An ‘hourglass” scenario has been created whereby the wholesalers occupy the squeezed middle of the glass. This position of enormous control has generated massive profits and has made them so powerful they are now able to completely control not just the distribution of wine, but the laws that are created to govern the distribution of wine.

Since 2000, Wholesalers, their political action groups and their associations have spent nearly $60,000,000 in campaign contributions on the state level. In addition, millions of dollars more have been spent on lobbyists on the state and federal level.

In 2006, for example, in Texas, alcohol distributors contributed more than $3,750,000 to political candidates and politicians. The only economic interests that outspent alcohol distributors in 2006 were Attorneys and Law firms, Oil & Gas, and Home Builders. Alcohol wholesalers outspent all unions combined in Texas, securities and banking interests, and insurance interests. Alcohol wholesalers in Texas outspent the combined contributions of gambling interests and casinos, retailer interests, all food and non-alcoholic beverage interests, tobacco interests, and tourism interests.

It is difficult to correlate campaign contributions with favorable treatment in the halls of government. However, it should be noted that in numerous states, legislation that can only be called favorable to alcohol wholesalers is regularly introduced and passed.

This trend is particularly clear in the areas of consumer access to wine. Alcohol wholesalers have proven to be advocates of the consumer, but only as long as the consumer is purchasing alcohol that wholesalers first made money on by distributing it to retailers and restaurants.

Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, as the number of wineries in America skyrocketed, consumers became interested in buying the wines produced by these new producers. The products of small, specialty wineries in particular were coveted. However, a large number of these wineries could not find a wholesaler to distribute their wines. And even when they were distributed, wholesalers in individual states usually only bought very small amounts of the wine.

Yet with the advent of the Internet and the consumer’s ability to use search engine technology to locate the wines they wanted from wineries and retailers, it became possible for a wine lover to track down the wines they wanted. However, purchasing directly from wineries and retailers located outside the state in which the consumer resided meant that wholesalers in those states where wines were being shipped into would not make any money on the transaction. Alcohol wholesalers responded to this development by instituting a massive campaign to stop direct shipments of wine.

At alcohol wholesalers’ requests, a number of state legislatures passed felony laws aimed at vintners and retailers who were shipping directly to the consumer and who were filling the growing demand for wines that wholesalers were incapable or unwilling to distribute.

The all-out attack on direct sales of wine by the wholesalers came with dire warnings that if it were allowed to continue minors would eventually start ordering alcohol over the Internet—even though that meant paying the additional cost of shipping and waiting at the door for the delivery in order to hide the purchase from their parents. The Wine & Spirit Wholesalers Association, a national association of alcohol wholesalers headed by one-time pro-tobacco activist Juanita Duggan, led the campaign to prevent consumers from obtaining the wines that wholesalers could not or would not supply.

The wholesalers were met by stiff consumer and winery-led opposition. Wineries and consumers argued that wholesalers were merely fighting to preserve enormous profits made from being at the center of a monopoly-based system that could no longer serve a market that had evolved considerably since the end of Prohibition in 1933.

Eventually wineries led by the newly formed Coalition for Free Trade, and consumers led by an advocacy organization called Free The Grapes followed a litigation strategy that focused on using the Commerce Clause of the Constitution.

Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, states besides California began to sprout their own wine industries. Oregon, Washington, New York, Virginia, Michigan and many other states found themselves with burgeoning wine industries. The states, wanting to cultivate these new industries that added value to agricultural pursuits, attracted tourism, and brought prestige to the state, enacted exceptions to the three tier system that allowed its wineries to sell directly to consumers rather than forcing them to always sell to wholesalers. By doing this, the new wineries were able to produce greater revenues for themselves by selling their wine at full retail price, rather than reducing the retail price by half when sold to a wholesaler, who then tacked on their cut when they sold to retailers, who in turn tacked on their cut when selling directly to the consumer.

However, this “direct-to-consumer” exception in the law was rarely extended to out-of-state wineries.

Legal challenges to this blatant discrimination against out-of-state wineries started popping up around the country. In court battles across the country the argument was made that a state may not allow its own wineries to ship to its state’s residents, yet prohibit out-of-state wineries from doing the same. It was a matter of the Commerce Clause of the Constitution and its demand that states not hamper interstate commerce, trumping the states’ ability to regulate the distribution of alcohol based on the second paragraph of the 21st Amendment.

The issue finally made its way to the Supreme Court, which in May 2005 rendered a 5-4 decision favoring the wineries and free traders in its Granholm v. Heald decision.

There was an immediate assumption that states across the country would loosen their laws to allow consumers to buy wine from out-of-state wineries. Many reports heralded a new era in consumer access to fine wine.

While a number of states did change their laws, the era of free trade in wine was not quite at hand.

If wholesalers found the courts a difficult venue to try to protect their economic interests, legislatures proved a more fertile ground for them. From 2005 through 2007 states legislatures began re-writing their wine shipping laws. In the course of doing so many of the laws contained wholesaler-requested restrictions that kept direct shipment of wine limited.

Some laws allowed direct shipment, but only if the winery produced very small amounts of wine. These “production cap” restrictions were aimed at California, Washington and Oregon, where most wineries resided. The production caps were usually set just high enough to include the largest of a state’s wineries (often no more than 5,000 cases annually). The caps prevented medium and large wineries from shipping into states that had these restrictions and forced them to stay in the three-tier system if they wanted to sell wine in that state.

Other types of restrictions were also created at the behest of wholesalers in a variety of states. Wineries and consumer advocates have begun to challenge them in court, setting off a new round of court battles.

In the meantime, alcohol wholesalers across the country began to work to exclude retailers from shipping direct to consumers altogether. In many cases the prohibition they sought on retailer-to-consumer sales were pushed as part of legislation that opened up states to wineries. California, Texas, Ohio, Oregon and Illinois all passed or have attempted to pass legislation that at once allows out-of-state wineries to ship into their state, but exclude out-of-state retailers from doing the same.

While no good estimates are available as to the amount of wine that is purchased direct from retailers and shipped over state lines, many observers of the wine industry agree that far more wine is being purchased by consumers via the Internet from retailers than direct from wineries.

Retailers, led by the Specialty Wine Retailers Association, are now fighting the wholesalers largely on the same legal grounds as wineries did. In many cases in-state retailers are still allowed to ship to consumers while their out-of-state brethren are prohibited from doing so. Wholesalers argue that the principle of a level playing field for both in-state and out-of-state interests explained in the Granholm decision does not apply to retailer-to-consumer transaction, but only to winery-to-consumer transactions.

Lawsuits challenging discriminatory legislation were introduced in Michigan, New York and Texas. While positive outcomes have resulted from these lawsuits, this has not guaranteed positive changes where consumer access to wine is concerned. In Michigan, for example, a Federal District Court Judge ruled that the state unconstitutionally discriminated against out-of-state retailers by barring them from shipping wine to Michigan consumers, but allowing in-state retailers to do so. Immediately, the Michigan Liquor Control Commission, working in concert with the Michigan Beer & Wine Wholesalers Association and supportive legislators who had received significant campaign contributions from Michigan wholesalers, introduced a bill that barred all shipping of wine to Michigan consumers by retailers, whether located in-state or out.

This move in Michigan highlighted another issue affecting the cause of retailer-to-consumer shipping: collaboration between alcohol regulatory agencies and wholesalers. In the case of Michigan, the Michigan Liquor Control Commission lobbied for passage of an anti-shipping bill, advocated that it be passed quickly and without debate, and made arguments in favor of the bill without presenting supporting materials. It should be noted that alcohol regulatory agencies are not generally thought of as policy-making bodies, but rather agencies that carry out the will of the legislature. This kind of alliance between agency and wholesaler is not unusual.

In the case of the retailers’ battle against the wholesalers, a new dynamic has emerged. Unlike the wineries’ battles that usually had the support of wineries across the country, retailers often take a provincial position, with the hope of keeping out-of-state retailers from shipping into their own home state and thereby protecting themselves from competition. Also, many retailers are not willing to fight on behalf of free trade in wine for fear they will be retaliated against by their state’s wholesalers who supply them with products. Ironically, the situation is identical to that which existed with Tied House retailers prior to Prohibition, but with the pressure now being put on by the wholesalers rather than by producers.

The power that exists in the hands of a very few (no more than 10) alcohol wholesalers operating in markets across the country cannot be underestimated. In nearly every state few wholesalers control the entire apparatus of alcohol distribution. Legislatures continue to enact laws that favor wholesalers to the detriment of retailers, wineries and consumers. In nearly every state wholesalers are in the top ten industries for campaign contributions. Between 2000 and 2006, America’s alcohol wholesalers delivered $60 million dollars in campaign donations to state political campaigns, dwarfing that contributed by either retailers or wineries.

What’s most clear is that wholesalers are using their power to maintain a system of alcohol distribution created to address a society, culture and market that existed three-quarters of a century ago. This United States no longer exists. Yet the system it created is still in place, to the detriment of wineries, retailers and particularly consumers.

The New Wine Review

A WINE REVIEW

65%
2006 Mayo Family Winery Estate Bottled "Reserve Chardonnay—Sonoma Valley

35% 2006 Chateau Souverain Chardonnay—Alexander Valley


Masou This blend of two Sonoma County Chardonnays combines to produce a striking, clear and brilliant deep straw color in the glass. The blend's aromas are dominated by stone fruit, including white peach and apricot, followed by distinct butterscotch and vanilla notes derived from oak aging. There is a rich, full bodied attack on the palate that leads into slight hints of citrus, but dominated again by peach and apricot flavors. The palate also detects attractive hints of sage. The finish is medium long. Though I'd like to see a bit more acid dance on the tongue, this blend works well and would be a lovely accompaniment to a goat cheese laced spinach salad with candied pecans. By bringing the Mayo Chard down to 60% and replacing the 5% with the winery's 2006 Ricci Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley), the new, slightly heftier blend would work well with grilled prawns with red pepper flakes.
(blended and tasted June 22, 200)

Just how much control of brands will wine drinkers take over as the means to reach out to consumers (followers and friends) via social media expands? At what point to brand owners throw up their hands and hope this (see above) doesn't happen?

From a moral, ethical and practical standpoint there is absolutely nothing wrong with this kind of review. Yes, these products were produced with the idea that they would be consumed individually. But there is no requirement they be consumed that way and if you think about it, we alter the taste of wine when we pair it with different foods, when we age it and when we serve it at different temperatures. In each case we've individualized and taken control of the wine's character—to a degree. And of course, what real wine lover has never taken it upon themselves to make a little table blend with the remaining bits of wines on the table?

Of course what we have here is a legitimate mashup. It's the same sort that we see produced in the area of recorded music, web applications where data from different sources is combined, and video where a final product is created from various video sources. These mashups are very common now and almost always produced by aficionados of a medium who are not professionals. When completed it amounts to the creation of something entirely new built on scavenged materials.

The mashup, and this review of a blend of more than one wine, might drive home the point that once a product or idea is introduced into a world where it can be manipulated and observed and critiqued by millions and within seconds, a great deal of control of its meaning is lost. Who knows what will happen to it? Who knows what will be said about it. Who knows what will be made of it.

If you are the brand or product owner, you have very little to say on the matter until you are forced to react to the consequences of diminished brand and product control. But, we do have that "very little" that can be said. And that very little can be pretty powerful if it is said to the right people and through the right venues. And it is here, in this "very little" electronic passageway that a brand owner's most important interaction with social media tools is also most powerful.

The U.S. Open of Wine?

Tiger This week the U.S. Open, America's most important golf tournament, will have the attention of sports writers, Tiger-watchers and golf lovers the world over. It's a big tournament and it always has been. Despite the existence of the Fed Ex cup, which is suppose to produce something like the final results for best golfer of the year, I think it's safe to say that winning the U.S. Open produces the greatest prestige for a golfer. Folks will be glued to their TV this weekend watching the U.S. Open.

So, where is the competition that would produce America's #1 wine?

There are many wine competitions across the country that judge single varieties, wines of a particular region, that associate themselves with state fairs, and those that have specific sorts of wine people doing the judging. But in my 20 years of working in the wine industry, there has never been any wine competition anywhere that was acknowledged as the most prestigious.

In a way, I think this circumstance is odd. Given that a competitive tasting between French and American wines back in the 1970s put American wine on the map, you'd think this alone would have provided the impetus to create something like a national competition that would be like the U.S. Open, America's most prestigious judging. But it didn't. It helped lead to a proliferation of competitions, none of which became the most important.

Wine Competitions are somewhat controversial within the industry. There are many philosophies as to how they ought to be run and what their results mean. For one, many of the most famous artisan wineries don't submit their wines for judging for the simple reason that they have nothing to gain and everything to lose be permitting the possibility that other much less expensive and lesser appreciated wines will wind up besting them. If I make a Syrah that consistently sells  out on release and I get $60 for it, why would I even consider putting it in a competition where a $30 Syrah might best it?

There is also the inherent difficulty for the judges. Judging 200+ chardonnays in a sitting is a very difficult thing to do. At some point, many judges simply start reacting to the most expansive, biggest, palate smacking wines that come in front of them. Is that positive?

Still, I think that  if it could be created, a national championship of wine would be a fun thing. I'm not sure it would be a good thing for the American wine consumer or the American wine industry, but it would be exciting if it could be organized and appreciated as a sort of national championship.

On the other hand, it wouldn't make for great TV.

Cheap Wine & The Wax-Coated Sticks of Brown

Reese's I think there is a connection between the degradation in the quality of classic candy and the rise of simply, flabby low priced wines.

First, let's admit that wines in the lower price categories that are made for American consumption do tend to be flabby, sweet, simply wines with little character. They are, in my opinion, delivery vehicles for alcohol disguised as sweet fruitiness that is slippery on the tongue. The California Central Valley and Australia has been pumping out these benign, unchallenging, hollow mixtures for quite some time.

I don't think low priced wines were always such wimpy destroyers of interest. There was a time when you could expect even a lower priced Cabernet to pick up the fat left on your palate from a good rib-eye and wash it down your throat. Not so much anymore.

Now take Reese's Peanut Butter Cup. Does anyone remember when you could eat around the edge of the cup and the chocolate on the edge would break off nice and crisp giving you  bite of chocolate you could chew and sink your teeth in to?
  I remember this. I remember nibbling around the edge of the Reese's, slowing the experience and making the candy last.

Today if you try to nipple around the edge of a Reese's, there is no snap to the outter edge of chocolate. The teeth sink into the mushy chocolate like a pitchfork into quicksand. Why the change? I don't know. But I know the effect of whatever change came to the Reese's is that it's quicker and easier (in a manual way) to get the damn thing down your throat. Similar to the low priced wines.

Take the Nestle's Crunch Bar. Remember when it was really chocolaty. Remember when you could take a bite and if you let the bite sit in your mouth the chocolate would slowly melt away around the crisps, leaving a mouthful of chocolate coated crisps to chew on? Today, that same bite sits on your tongue with a distinct paraffin characteristic. It stays smooth and whole and takes a long time to melt in your mouth, influencing you to just swallow it down your gullet without any savoring of the ingredients and chocolaty goodness.

I could go on about the degradation in quality of the classic American candy bar, just as I could go on about the degradation in the low priced wines delivered to our drugstore and grocery store shelves. But what's the points?

Well, the point is that it used to be easier to find something of quality on the wine shelves that was priced to sell. Now, just as with American candy, it's harder to find that real value. It's harder to find a $6 Cabernet that doesn't offend us by assuming we just want to swallow it. It's harder to find a $1.00 candy bar that isn't a wax-coated stick of brown.

Creating a New Job Category for the Wine Industry

Mg So, Murphy-Goode Winery is going to pay someone $60K over 6 months to be their Social Media Director.

That sounds about right. By my estimation, if you hired someone to work full time in such a position and if they had significant social media, sales, PR and tech experience that kind of salary might be at the high end of the spectrum but not outside it.

Of course the way Murphy-Goode has gone about screening candidates with video's being posted on-line is a pretty darn good idea since it not only brings their brand visibility and attention, but it also draws attention to the whole realm of wine social media activities. (KUDO's Murphy Goode!!)

Vt But of course what else is interesting about this process is the involvement of VinTank, the wine industry "Digital Think Tank" started by Paul Mabray, Eric Hsu, Patrick Angeles, and Joel Vincent. Vintank has offered $100,000 work of consulting services to the individual that Murphy Goode chooses to be their Social Media Guru. This means that Murphy-Goode will get a very good return on the $60K+ they will spend on their new recruit.

But Vintank has gone one step further and identified four candidates for the job they think are best suited for the job, as well as a second set of four candidates they also endorse. For the company that hires the "VinTank+4" candidates the firm will offer $50K in consulting services. For the company that hires any of the second set of VinTank candidates, they will deliver $25K in consulting services.

The point, according to Mabray, is to "catalyze wineries to engage in digital marketing and wine social media."

Back around 1993 to 1995 wineries that I worked with as well as most others had taken note of the Internet. Most weren't too sure what it mean or what its potential was. But some of my PR clients did start to dip their toe into the water by building websites that were essentially brochures. It all represented the First Steps.

Social media involvement by wineries and wine companies will happen faster than they initially moved into the Internet if only because most have become accustomed by now to use Internet technology in one way or another and have become somewhat alerted to the fact they need to keep up with where digital communications are leading their industry and consumers.

The thing about the Murphy-Goode and VinTank promotion of Social Media tools is that the kind of impact I think it will have is to spur other wine companies to give careful consideration to bringing on employees dedicated to these new tools and arenas for communication. In other worlds, Mabray's hope for his efforts at VinTank are likely to pan out...slowly...but pan out nonetheless.

Wine PR? What Exactly Do You Do?

ConstJob For nearly 20 years, when I tell people "I work in wine PR", I often get the same response: "So what exactly do you do?"

Sometimes this questions sets me back on my heels because from day-to-day my responsibilities to my clients change, the things I'm asked to do change, and I'm not always sure, on any given day, exactly what I'll be doing. In other words, while there are some vague boundaries to the realm of "PR", it's not always so well defined.

For this reason, I thought I'd point readers to at least one view of what Wine PR is all about. In this case it's a job description for a "Director of Public Relations" now open with Constellation Wines U.S. The job listing is over at winejobs.com and is a pretty thorough, top-down explanation of what is expected from a PR pro working for a large firm. What's interesting about the job description (which does not list salary possibilities) is that if you scan it with a small winery's needs in mind it actually translates. That is, what Constellation expects of the person filling their Director of PR position is what would generally be expected of the person doing PR for a small or medium sized winery.

Now, while I have worked with large wine organizations over the years, it has not been my preferred sort of client. Things tend to move a bit more slowly than with small and medium-sized wineries and the layers of bureaucracy tend to be more imposing. Still, this kind of position doesn't open up that often. We are looking at one of the most influential, powerful and vibrant wine companies in the world seeking out a PR pro for the position that sits just below their VP of Public Relations.I would suspect they will receive MANY resumes.

One thing very interesting about the Constellation job posting is that there is no mention of Social Media. Among the Constellation-owned brands is Robert Mondavi Winery. They have a Facebook page. It possesses 2 fans. Perhaps the area of Social Media is part of the job postings note that candidates responsibilities would include: "Execute focused public relations and communications plans, ideas and programs that support the strategic messages of each estate for multiple wine brands."

Either way, for those of you who have asked, "What do you do", this job posting is a good start toward an answer.


Sponsor





Support Our Sponsors

Subscribe in NewsGator Online Subscribe in Bloglines Subscribe in Rojo

Add to Google Reader or Homepage

Wine Blogs You Need To Read