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Totalitarianism and Gigantism in Napa Valley?

James Conaway is wrong about Napa Valley:

While at the California Preservation Foundation Conference in Napa Valley, Conaway said about Napa Valley (Quoting from the Napa Valley Register):

"Conaway said the undoing of the Napa Valley may be the sprawl of boutique wineries by rich newcomers who would sacrifice our natural and architectural heritage in the name of “showing off.”

Dominuswinery First, would it be different if the sprawl of boutique wineries were being built by middle class, old-timers? Second, the implication in the idea that our "architectural heritage" in Napa is being sacrificed, suggests there is a style of architecture for wineries that is "better". Really? Better? How? This strikes me as a form of Nimbyism/Elitism/Good-Old-Daysism.

"He cited the architecture of Dominus Estate — a winery covered with stone-filled gabion enclosures — as an example of “totalitarian” design, an “unapproachable” building that serves the “vineyard elite” that now rule the Napa Valley."

Wow..."Totalitarian"?  It "serves the Napa Valley elite"? How is Dominus "totalitarian"? I need to remember this rhetorical tool. Think up all the words that have ugly connotations and use them when I want to criticize someone, regardless of whether or not these words have any relationship to the topic at hand. Maybe something like this: "In a Nazi-like yelp filled with fascist-implications, the author let loose with a sneaky blitzkrieg of commie-inspired accusations!"

"In the same vein, Conaway disparaged the Frank Gehry-design for what will be Hall Winery in St. Helena, a clear case of a building dictated by “fashion, not function.”

Since when is function the only thing to be considered when constructing a building? One suspects that theVersailles Palace at Versaille could have been far more functional were it built as a simple rectangle with only straight lines.

"Tourists play into this trend, Conaway said. “They’re attracted by the spectacular.” Be wary of catering to tourists, he said. “Tourism can devour the thing it loves.”"

Indeed, tourism has just killed the wine industry. I mean, imagine a winery actually including direct contact with the customer as part of their marketing plan. What are they thinking?? That's just crazy!!

"Conaway, who is an editor at large for Preservation magazine, said George Yount, the valley’s first white settler, would hardly recognize the place today. The Napa of his day was marked by abundant wildlife, clear-running streams and dense forests on the western hills, Conaway said. If conference attendees were to venture into the hills today, they would find forest “scrapped raw” by vineyard development, he said."

I have to assume this quote is taken out of context or at least the context of this quote just isn't included in the article but that it exists somewhere. George Yount? The implication is that Napa Valley would be better off the way George Yount found it in the middle to late 19th century with its Grizzly Bears running around in mass numbers and not a human being to be found outside of a band of Native Americans. I wish I knew what Conaway was trying to get at here.

"Perversely, the very success of the Napa Valley wine industry — wine grapes are “one of the most valuable legal crops in the country” — has created the conditions that threaten it, he said. The valley is attracting the mega-wealthy who want a piece of the action, he said. Vineyards have been planted on questionable terrain. The homes of the rich are infected by “gigantism.”"

What's the threat? Someone please show me the threat that are vineyards? And someone else has to point me to a time when wealthy folks DID NOT build larger homes for themselves?  "Infected"??? "Infected by gigantism"?  And finally, which vineyards have been planted on "questionable terrain"?

I wish I was at this talk, damn it! The message delivered by these quotes just can't be real. Can they? If these are the real thoughts of Mr. Conaway, then they must lead to his concluding of one of two things: It's just too darn bad what's happened to Napa Valley and we should mourn the loss of pristine wilderness or we should create laws that regulate how wealthy one can be to own a winery or vineyard as well as the style of architecture that is allowed on private property.

Bring On the Swim-Up Wine Bar

Pyramid Ok...so Francis Ford Coppola got shot down on his desire to erect two lovely lighted pyramids on his Rosso & Bianco Winery (formerly Chateau Souverain) in Sonoma County. (Personally, I think the demise of this particular aesthetic element of his new Sonoma winery is a shame...Who doesn't like a lighted pyramid?) However, it's not as though the director of the greatest American movie ever made, winery owner, restaurateur and father of the woman that ruined Godfather III doesn't retain big plans for this new facility north of Healdsburg. Behold the plans:

-Coppola's Rosso & Bianco Winery on four parcels covering 76 acres

-It include a 900-foot bandshell and stage that would host live music, theater and other events

-It will have a 2,000-square-foot dance floor for 128 people

-It will provide a 257-square-foot refreshment bar

-There will be a split-level swimming pool with a capacity of 175 people and 33 cabanas

-The Project includes a 1,430-square-foot outdoor restaurant with 44 seats near the pool

-Allowed are 18 special outdoor events a year, one of which would be for up to 3,000 guests.

Bar
I'm sort of hoping that this pool project at the winery will include a swim-up wine bar. One of my favorite past times on Mexican vacations is taking a slow swim up to the bar, saddling up on a submerged stool, requesting a couple shots of tequilla with a nice beer chaser, slowly waddle back through the water to my cabana by the pool, all in preparation for my next visit to the swim up bar about an hour later.

To think that I could do this all in Sonoma County gets me kind of thirsty!

Bring it on, Francis!

A Cache of Wine Info Worthy of Access

Winelibrary1 I was reminded recently of an amazing resource of which we all ought to be aware.

Josh Hermsmeyer, dedicated winemaker and blogger, sent me a note letting me know that on March 28 the Sonoma County Wine Library will be hosting a talk by Steve Heimoff, author of New Classic Winemakers of California. Steve will be discussing winemaking with five of his New Classic Winemakers including Randy Ullom, Eric Cinnamon, Merry Edwards, Greg La Follette and Michael Terrien. The even will no doubt offer fantastic insight into the current state of winemaking in California.

But what I was reminded of was the Sonoma County Wine Library.

It has been a while since I thought about this wonderful resource, let alone visited the place (it is located in the Count Library in the town of Healdsburg).

These days we scour the Internet seeking the info we need on wines, winemaking, wine history, etc. But here at the Sonoma County Wine Library lies a treasure trove of fascinating historical and technical data on the wine industry.

I recently wallowed in Wine Library's on-line resources, snooping around to remind myself of the various nuggets it held. The nuggets are many.

To-date the Wine Library has not placed its contents on-line. Rather, it delivers abstracts of its contents based on searches. This is a shame. As much as I adore libraries with their rows and stacks and old paper smells, most of us look to the Internet for our research needs. What a boon to the the world it would be if rather than being able to retrieve abstracts of the Library's contents we could retrieve the actual contents and read them on-line. This of course would take a tremendous effort and gobs of time and money to accomplish. It would take an industry willing to step up with enormous amounts of funds to see the scanning begin and finish. Yet I'm convinced that such a project would be of enormous value.

Josh is the current president of the Sonoma County Wine Library. I wonder if this topic has come up in the various board meetings. Surely funding of the library is tight. But what a legacy Josh might leave if he and others led an effort to take the contents of the library and put them all on-line.

The contents of the library are somewhat eclectic. Without too much self indulgence I have to relate one find that made me laugh. In searching the Library's content on-line using as a search term the name of the first PR firm I ever worked for (Gracelyn Associates), up popped a press release I wrote in 1992 on behalf of the firm. It was a release meant to draw attention to the firm, rather than our clients. A bit of self promotion, if you will. A part of the press release showed up as a result of the search:

New study shows outcome of '92 election may rest on grapes - August 1, 1992

Preliminary results of a new study show that the quality of an election year vintage in California's vineyards may influence which party wins the White House more than economics or foreign policy. The exhaustive study, conducted by Gracelyn & Burns over a two-hour period, shows that in years when California experiences a good to outstanding harvest, Republicans tend to take the White House. In average to poor election-year vintages, Democrats are more likely to head the executive branch. "This revelation is startling," said Gracelyn Guyol, founding partner of Gracelyn & Burns, a food and wine public relations agency based in Northern California's premium wine country. "This changes the entire dynamic and meaning of politics in America. Politicians should be watching the grapes instead of the polls as the election draws near."

I hadn't thought about this press release in years. It got tremendous pick up in the media, including the Wall Street Journal. I remember suggesting we do this tongue in cheek press release to Gracelyn, the owner of the firm and thinking she'd say no on the spot. She laughed and said, "Let's Do It!" There is much much more than just old press releases in the Sonoma County Wine Library's contents. Here is a wonderful story on what one might find there. The content deserves to be made accessible. Perhaps one day.

When the Cows Come Home

Almabtrieb In today's SF Chronicle Janet Fletcher relates a wonderful tradition that occurs in the German Allgauer Alps. Apparently every fall there is a festival celebrating the cows' return from the mountains where they've spent their time since spring feeding on the mountain grasses. These cows are the source of the milk that is made into the region's Hirtenkase or "Herdsman Cheese".

According to Janet, on September 18 the people of the region line the streets and watch the cows come home. I presume the Cow Parade, otherwise known as Almabtrieb, is followed by a feasting on Cheese and something strong to drink.

I want to go there for that. Just the idea of lining the streets to watch the cows come home, cheese in one hand and perhaps a Riesling or beer in the other is enough to send me off to Expedia to look for tickets.

It sounds campy, and I suspect there is probably an element of camp, but the closest thing we have in this neck of the woods is Sonoma's Vintage Festival. It's nice. There's a parade of local luminaries and such. but there are no cows.

Is Janet's the only regular Cheese column running in an American newspaper? I don't know for sure but I bet it is. And we are all better for it. In fact I envy her. What a great beat!


Winemakers Really Do have Something to Say

Newclassic I have a confession. I'm not too often convinced that winemakers have very much of interest to say.

This comes from a guy who has worked with a LOT of winemakers, at least in the capacity as their publicist (I've never dragged a hose through a winery that I didn't first trip on in my life. And my singe experience hand punching down Noir in small bins convinced me this was the kind of word I am simply not cut out for.

But to get back to backhanded slap at winemakers, what I really mean to say is that, in my mind, unless you can get a winemaker away from his barrels and tanks that seem always to be calling him, and unless you have a rapport with the winemaker to the point that they trust you, the most you are likely to get out of these folks is something along the lines of things I've written on back labels—nothing of too much interest.

This is what makes Steve Heimoff's most recent book, "New Classic Winemakers of California: Conversations with Steve Heimoff", so impressive. His subjects have quite a bit of interest to say.

Steve is the West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast Magazine. So, his familiarity with his subjects and their subject matter is not in dispute. His previous book, "A Wine Journey Along the Russian River" and his independent voice that can be read in his regular wine column as well as in his wine review, both demonstrate his vital and intimate connection to the wine industry. This is quality that doesn't always come through in many wine writers, if only because it doesn't exist. But I'm convinced that this new book is as wonderful as it is precisely because Steve was able to convince his subjects that he cared about the things they were talking about just as much as they did. No small feat, this.

"New Classic Winemakers of California boils down to a series of in depth interviews with a couple dozen of California's most dynamic winemakers. This is candid stuff. It can also be quite intricate in its details with discussions of clones, fermentation, the philosophy driving "cult" wines and "High Octane" wines, to discussions of what terroir is intellectually and what it is practically. Steve demonstrates a real feel for the interview process.

Among those who are interviewed in the book are
John Alban, Mark Aubert, Heidi Peterson Barrett, Andy Beckstoffer,  Merry Edwards, Genevieve Janssens, Greg La Follette, Dan Morgan Lee, Rick Longoria, Javier Tapia Meza, Tony Soter, Brian Talley, Michael Terrien, and Margo van Staaveren.    

These and the others, to a person, are the folks who in 40 and 50 years will be referred to by other winemakers and growers as "Mentors". The point is, Heimoff picked the right crew to get intimate with.

Again, I want to suggest that this is pretty dense read. It's not a beginners book. However, it is the kind of book that makes the well seasoned enthusiast much more seasoned for their time spent with the book.

Disneyland for Adults

Cyrusbox Remember that feeling you got as a child when you walked down Disneyland's Main Street? It was all there. Everything a child could possible want out of life. Nothing spared. You grabbed your parent's hand and literally pulled them toward Sleeping Beauty's Castle with visions of amazing adventures, rides and fun beyond.

Eating at Cyrus in Healdsburg, California brought me as close I I think I could get to that experience...only it was a Disneyland for adults.

Myself, my wife and two other couples had the 6:30 reservation at Cyrus on New Years Eve. The five course Prix Fixe was $175 per person....and it was a bargain. You expect a place that aspires to greatness to deliver creative and daring dishes. That's exactly what came from their unique treatments of the Torchon of Fois Gras and braised Sea Bass to the marinated Duck and into the Waygu Beef Wellington. I don't want to give the details of the meal only because I know my powers of description are not up the task and you really are best experiencing it on your own without any baggage packed by a wine blogger's feeble attempts at a run down of the food.

And in any case, I want to focus here on what I think sets Cyrus apart from most restaurants and what makes any great restaurant great: service.

Yes, we have six waiters delivering each course and setting the plates down in unison "Laurence Olivier" style. It was quite a production. And the moment I moved from my seat I was greeted upon my return by a fresh set of silverware and napkin. And like with all great restaurants, the wait staff appeared to possess clairvoyance as a requirement of their position. I barely had to catch one's eye and they knew exactly what I needed. But there's more.

We were on a tight schedule and needed to leave the restaurant by 8:30pm. One of my table mates, in jest, told the waitperson, "we need to leave precisely at 8:37pm." After a cocktails course, a Champagne Course, an elaborate amuse bouche, a couple courses, an intermezzo, and three more courses including coffee and candies we got up from the table precisely at 8:36pm. And it was a perfectly paced meal. That's pretty amazing. That's pretty attentive to perfection.

But get this. After the second course a friend and I retired outdoors for a mid course smoke. As we stood outside and shortened our lives, the manager of Cyrus brought us each our intermezzo, outside on the sidewalk and informed us that, "your next course will be served in six minutes." We ate our intermezzo, set our watches, returned to the table with a minute to spare and smiled when the next course was delivered by six waiters one minute later.

The whole experience was topped off with the best brownie I've ever put in my mouth that was delivered in a lovely "Cyrus" box to keep for the next day.

Yes, a great restaurant delivers great, inventive food. But a REALLY great restaurant reminds you why you go out to dinner at all: to be served.

A New York Moment

Ny Can someone please explain to me how it is that I've not been to New York City for almost 20 years! I've set up countless dinners, events, lunches and media meetings for clients in that time, but I've never been. It's not emberassing, but a considered a personal failure on my part.

I'll be rectifying that over this weekend as I take off to NY for business. There will be little time for exploring, with the exception of making sure I get to Murray's. However just getting myself, finally, back to that remarkable bastion of humanities peak almost seems enough for me.

Consider just the attention paid to wine in that metropolis:

Some of the Greatest Wine Retailers in the World

Great Wine Auctions Houses including Christie's, Morrell, Acker, Sotheby's, Zackys

The Amazing Number of Wine Events Happening Every Day

The NY Commitment To Wine's Literary Dimension Via: The Guild, The Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast, Food & Wine Magazine

There are those who can argue soundly that San Francisco is the better "Wine City". And they may be right. But when they make that argument they do so knowing they are comparing themselves to New York City, just as every comparison between cities must do when superlatives are being bandied about.

Whimsy

Greysanatomy
One thing you don't see on TV too much is Napa Valley being dissed. It's even less common to see Sonoma be hailed over Napa. Yet this very occurrence was brought to my attention today in the form of a recent episode of Grey's Anatomy.

Derek, played by Patrick Dempsey, is soliciting advice from Mark, played by Eric Dane, on whether he should take his girl to Napa or Sonoma for a couple days. The advise he gets back is straight forward: Sonoma, because there are less tourists and smaller hotels.

I know...it's a small little item, but...damn, you just don't see that sort of thing often on your average network show.

And I'm not suggesting it's a Sideways-moment that will catapult Sonoma in to the American consciousness. I think what we probably have here is a case of one of the writers having probably recently had this very discussion and they thought they'd pass on the seemingly insider kind of knowledge to the show's script.

But this is a reminder. The power of popular culture and its icons to influence American's views of the world is immense. The movie "Sideways" and it's effect on Pinot Noir sales is only the latest example. Before that we saw "60 Minutes" catapult the sales of red wine based on their coverage of the health benefits of the beverage.

The point, of course, is whimsy. No one as far as I know anticipated the effect that Sideways would have, even though many knew this movie was being released. One never knows what kind of popular culture event might ignite an idea or industry or wine or region.

Intimidated By Wine

Kansasgovernor I bet there was a time when the White House, under no circumstances, would have served a California wine at a State dinner for a visiting leader from Europe. That time would have been long ago, but nonetheless I'll bet there was a time. And the reason is probably the same that explains how Kansas Governor Kathleen Sebelius could have been led to make this comment about her state's wine:

You should be thankful we don’t make wine in Kansas. If you ever see Kansas wine, don’t drink it.”

OUCH!!

For some reason, people tend to get self conscious about the quality of their home state products when faced with someone from a place that serves as an icon for that product.

In the case of the Kansas Governor, the unfortunate quip came out of her mouth while in Washington State at a fundraising event for the Washington Governor. I suppose it's the notion that fine wine has always had a way of bestowing some sort of sophistication on those associated with it, be it as a producer, drinker or representative of a place where the wines are understood to be outstanding. Governor Sebelius clearly didn't want to be associated with an industry that did not have the reputation equal to that of Washington States. She was intimidated.

The Kansas governor, if asked about either Washington Wines or Kansas Wines or the comparison of the two really should have responded this way:

"Kansas may not have a leg up on the great wines of Washington...Yet. We grow more than 20 different wine grapes in the state and our wines are getting better every year. Give us a few years and I'll be happy to bring the Kansas wines to a tasting alongside Washington's."

Given the unknown limits of technology and the advances in viticultural techniques, wine regions like Kansas can produce outstanding, regional, unique wines if they are encouraged to pursue winemaking. That encouragement really should be coming from the the State's political leadership.

The problem that Kansas Governor Kathleen Sebelius faces is that technology and science don't appear to have developed a cure for Foot-in-Mouth Decease.

The Nexus Between Golf & the Tasting Room

Sonomagolfclub Professional golf came to Sonoma Wine Country this week. Specifically, it came to Sonoma Valley in the form of the Champions Tour and Charles Schwab Cup at the Sonoma Golf Club. Jim Thorpe won for the second year in a row. So did the wineries.

Based on what I saw of cars on the roads and from talking to a couple tasting room folks and owners, sales were way up at tasting rooms this week.

It was a bit of a perfect storm weekend for tasting rooms and a perfect example of why there may be no better asset at a winery than a well placed tasting room.

A lot of things came together for wine tasting rooms:

1. The Golf Tournament came to town bringing with it a fairly affluent, wine drinking crowd
2. Harvest is still happening, though just finishing up, which also brings folk to town
3. The weather was beautiful, attracting day trippers from around the Bay Area

The benefits of having a tasting room, particularly in a destination like Sonoma Valley, can barely be counted.   Sale are all at full retail. The very existence of the tasting room is a form of ongoing advertising. The tasting room is the best source of wine club memberships—the gift that keeps on giving to wineries. The Wine Club that results from a tasting room and the ongoing visitors allows a winery to make any number of small and unusual bottlings, which often can be very profitable.

The problem of course is getting approval for opening a tasting room anywhere near Highway 12 in Sonoma Valley. The community isn't exactly in favor of it, believing it brings more traffic to the region. Then there is the concern that one more tasting room in Sonoma mars the beauty of the Valley. Yet, the fact is Sonoma Valley from Kenwood to Sonoma would have to add a tasting room a day just to begin to reach the level of such establishments that exist in Napa. And I'd also dispute that additional tasting rooms, particularly in the incremental pace at which they arrive, do anything to affect traffic.

All that said, I have to tell a story about a long time client and their approach to tasting rooms to give a flavor for the extreme view that tasting rooms are the key element to one path to success in the wine business.

Mayo Family Winery opened in 1990. They geared up to do what others do: Make wine, sell it toMayowinery distributors, repeat. After about five or six years of this Jeff Mayo was burnt out trying to manage his distributor force across the country. Most of all he was tired of getting fifty cents on the dollar for his wine, the price that distributors demand. He decided to try the tasting room route and opened in one of his family's properties in Kenwood what would be the first co-op tasting room in Sonoma Country. He invited five other wineries to pour at the tasting room.

Immediately, Mayo saw 30 percent of it's wine now sold direct, at 100% of the wine's retail price. In addition, the wine club memberships began to trickle in. All of this was good news.

Being someone who thought repeating what worked was a good thing, Mayo opened a second coop tasting room in a new Sonoma luxury hotel a couple years later. For this co-op room, Mayo invited in 3 other wineries but also created two new  brands. Again, percentage of sales to distributors dropped, direct to consumer sales increased.

All this convinced Jeff that he needed his own tasting room and winery directly on Highway 12. A piece of land on the corner of Highway 12 and Arnold Drive (the entrance to Glen Ellen) came up for sale and they bought it. It took a while but they got the county approvals to build a 10,000 case winery and tasting room.

This was a very expensive proposition. It meant financing a great deal of it. However, five years after its completion, Mayo is selling 95 percent of nearly 10,000 cases of wine direct. He has a wine club of nearly 2000 people and you can't drive through Sonoma Valley without seeing "Mayo Family Winery".

But wait, there's more. Mayo opened another tasting room on Sonoma Plaza. Here folks who visit tend to buy one bottle at a time, tend not to join the wine club as often as at the winery, but it proves an amazing source of marketing for the winery since the Sonoma Plaza is inundated with visitors.

But wait, there's more. What about a different kind of tasting room experience? Could something different increase further the reputation and bottom line of the brand?

Mayoreserveroom The Reserve Room was born. In the first co-op tasting room Mayo opened a little visitor room where you cold sit, taste seven reserve wines, and taste them next to seven bites of tremendous culinary creations put together by the in-house chef. This worked out. Today that small, seven table tasting room with food results in twice as many wine club memberships per visitor than than the tasting room. Mayo went on to repeat this idea in a Healdsburg location.

Today, Mayo sells wine to one distributor and only because he likes the guy. They are friends. Everything else is direct. About 10,000 cases worth. He has five tasting room sin Sonoma Valley. But here's the kicker:

With this many tasting rooms Jeff Mayo and his wine maker Michel Berthoud are able to indulge their winemaking inclinations. That is too say, they can make a lot of different kind of wines and at very small production levels because they do not have to worry about trying to sell 200 cases of a strange wine to distributors.

Today, Mayo Family Winery produces upwards of 30 different single vineyard wines annually
.

This would be impossible without a tasting room. In fact, it would be very hard to survive selling the same 10,000 cases of wine  to distributors who buy it at 50 cents on the retail dollar.

But there is one other thing. Mayo does not send his wines into reviewers to obtain ratings. He used to when he had to satisfy distributors, but not now that all he has to do is satisfy wine lovers. He did fine when he played the ratings game. But he simply does not have to play now.

The moral is this: if you can afford to build a tasting room on a well traveled wine route, and if you make less than 30,000 cases of wine annually...you must build it!

Pollock & Vaughn in Carneros

Pollockledger There is no time of year better than this moment (mid to late October) when the vineyardlands of California are more beautiful. What makes them so compelling right now is a rich combination of order and chaos.

Driving though Carneros today I witnessed that annual display of orderly rows of vines cascading up and down knolls and hills all painted by a chaotic wash of greens, yellows and the occasional disease-inspired red leaves.

It is nothing less than stunning.Srvhao_2

Let's face it, summer in the vineyards is somewhat monotonous from an aesthetic perspective: long rows of near identically green colored vines. Winter, while more interesting in the vineyards with the display of naked vines and their undercarriage exposed, still is not up to duplicating the torrent of beauty this small window in October brings on.

This time of year might be my favorite. I'm also partial to Spring because it delivers both baseball and a fitting climate for the resumption of Rose consumption. But in wine country, Spring can't match fall for the explosion of beauty that seems to arrive so all-of-a-sudden.

The difference between this season's vineyard displays and those we find in the late spring to early fall months always strikes me as the difference between Pollock's most famous works and those of the monochromatic modern artists that emerged in the late 19th century and became most rampant in the early part of the 20th century.

If your inclination is toward music, think jazz vs. Broadway musicals. Digging down further, think Oscar Peterson vs. Bernadette Peters or Stevie Ray Vaughn & Double Trouble vs. Hall & Oates.

Pick your comparison. You get the idea. Better yet, if you are in the region of Northern California get out on the road right now and find a wine valley filled with hills, knolls and moderate to older vineyards. You'll be inspired.

The Map Is Green...Way Too Green

Weather109
This is a radar map of Napa and Sonoma Counties at 10pm this evening. That green is rain. And it's been pouring pretty hard here in Glen Ellen for about an hour. The rain looks as though it should pass in about an hour or two.

Unfortunately more rain is forecast for Friday. What we are looking for here tomorrow is some good breezes and some sun. There's probably a good 20% of the grapes still hanging.

I hate this shit!

Babies Like Wine Too

Doesn't it seem like their is an attitude of zero tolerance for the idea of placing minors even in the very proximity of alcohol?

Baby Many schools will send a child home or make them wear a school sweatshirt if they come to class with wearing winery schwag. We are constantly told that if any amount of alcohol hits the lips of a person under 21 they will die a terrible death and take others with them. Hell, the very idea that a minor looks at an advertisement for alcohol seems to set off some people.

I've long held that a minor's solid, responsible introduction to and education in the merits and downside of alcohol is a good thing. I've tried to do just this with my children. Interestingly, my son LOVES to sip and try wines at the dinner table or when we just open a bottle to drink. He's 14. My daughter simply hates the taste of alcohol.

Nevertheless, there does exist in this society a seeming zero tolerance when it comes to minors and alcohol.

That's why I like what Tyler Colman over at DrVino.com is doing with his "Kids At Wineries" Photo Contest. It's subversive. It's fun. And it sends the message that children won't shrivel up into little balls of goo if they get close to wine.

THE VOTING FOR BEST PHOTO OF KIDS AT WINERIES HAS BEGUN AT DRVINO.COM

I recommend you go over there and check out the cut baby shots. Vote. Be Subversive.

A Crack Addict in the Crack Factory

Campanile The idea of putting 30 roses on your wine list is really quite absurd...unless you are ready to promote the hell out of rose to your patrons. I assume that's exactly what Campanile does. For this kind of courage and this kind of contribution to the wine industry they should be given some sort of an award.

I flew down to Los Angeles on Sunday for a meeting on Monday. I'm not an LA kinda-guy. I have friends and a wife that extol the virtues of this place, but I've never been able to embrace it outside of my over exuberance for Disneyland. However, it did give me an excuse to spend some time at the Commerce Club where they play low limit poker like it's a contact sport and where they seem to believe that 10-8 off-suit is a raising hand every single time.

After a few hours of patience and sticking the easiest money I've ever won in my pocket, I returned to my hotel to prepare for the Monday meeting. One thing that hadn't been worked out was what wine to serve those in attendance at the meeting that would occur in the upstairs private room at Campanile the next day. I should have called ahead to work this out, but figured I could easily just pick the wines when I arrived.

When I did arrive the next day early enough to look over the room and pick the wines, I was confronted with a beautiful wine list that did include the previously mentioned 30 different roses from around the world. It took longer than I planned to pick the wine because it turned out a NUMBER of those roses were being poured by the glass and it just would not have been right to not taste though...a few.

For those who have been reading FERMENTATION long enough, you know I love rose. So, to be confronted with more than the 1 or 2 deep red, fruity California versions and the obligatory Domaine Tempier on a wine menu is something of delight for me. But 30 roses? That's like asking a crack addict to work in the crack factory.

I did not get a chance to meet Campanile's wine buyer. But I can make some assumptions them. They certainly must understand the benefit of matching their wine selections to the climate they live in, a context not always considered by those who build wine menus. They also must have an over abundance of love for the pink wines among us. They have a strong personality that can stand up to an owner's push back that surely sounds something like this: "What the F*ck are you doing putting 30 roses on my God Damned wine list?!!" And, they likely enjoy being able to look someone in the eye and say, "see, I told you so!" as their project looks back up at them from the glass and says, "wow....that IS great!" (the last trait is probably a character flaw, but if it helps get 30 Roses on a wine list who am I to criticize.

Gimme MORE, MORE, MORE Appellations in America

Rrv I love American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). They help make a PR Guy like me busy.

That's why my heart was wounded when the Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB) of the U.S. Treasury Department, the agency that approves and regulates AVAs, announced a few weeks ago that they were suspending all new approvals or consideration of new AVAs...pending some sort of review of the process

I've been wanting to write about this wound to my heart for some time but have been waiting for the right moment and the right inspiration. I got that today in thinking about the French appellation system and after reading Alan Goldfarb's article and interview at Appellation America about the TTB's recent decision.

The implications of re-evaluating the AVA system are vast. Goldfarb sums it all up nicely when he writes:

"There are concerns as it applies to domestic as well as to worldwide commerce and also pertaining to the viticultural significance of wine grape growing areas. There are serious implications for geographically named wineries and brands. Overriding it all is the very meaning and future of AVAs in this country.

What conclusions will TTB make after it opens yet-to-be-announced public hearings on the matter? Will there be drastic changes? Will the broken AVA system - which some say is being used merely as a marketing tool as opposed to the delineation of real climatic and soil distinctions – continue to exist as we know it?"

I really wish the Treasury Department and TTB would just consent to leave the whole matter in my own personal hands as I could easily clarify the meaning of AVAs in America. In fact, let me save them some time and money right now.

1. FACT: The specific soils and climate of a well defined area has an impact on the character of wines made from the grapes grown in these specific "terroirs". The soil and climate won't dictate the character of the wine, but it will have a consistent and identifiable impact on it. If you don't believe this, ask yourself why they don't make Cabernet Sauvignon in Germany.

2. An AVA, to have any meaning at all outside that which marketers and PR folks like me give it, must identify areas of consistent soil and climatic characteristics.

3. It is much easier to identify areas of consistent soils and climate when you are talking about much smaller geographic regions. In other words, 500 contiguous acres are more likely to have consistent soils and climate than 40,000 contiguous acres.

THEREFORE, it should be the mission of the TTB to encourage the creation of many more much smaller AVAs and sub-AVAs. We need more Green Valleys, Rutherfords, Mt. Veeders and Atlas Peaks.

THEREFORE, a winery's brand name should be allowed to include the name of the AVA if it makes 90% of its wine from grapes grown in that AVA

THEREFORE, Any winery that has a placename in its brand name that is then later used as the name of a new AVA should be allowed to keep that brand name and not be forced to make 90% of its wine from that AVA: They were there first.

Up to this point the vast majority of AVAs have had very little to do with consistent soil and climatic factors except in the most meaningless of ways. As a result, these bigger, meaningless AVAs have become simple marketing tools that form the raison d'etre of local "regional associations" such as the Russian River Valley Winegrowers, the Napa Valley Vintners and the Carneros Quality Alliance.

Does anyone really believe that the climates of the southwestern and northeastern regions of the Russian River Valley really have much in common with each other? Or course not. All you have to do is observe where the fog comes in first and stays longest to figure that out. And what about the soils of the Russian River Valley. The RRV Winegrowers own website puts to rest any notion that there is anything consistent in this vast AVA's soils when they write on their website: "Each of the various soil types has a sometimes subtle, sometimes profound effect on the grapes growing upon them."

There will be those that will object to the notion of creating more sub-AVAs inside larger AVAs and to the idea of creating more and more AVAs altogether. The argument is that we'll just confuse the consumer even more.

I'll grant them that.

It will be more confusing to have more and smaller AVAs inside larger AVAs running amok on the maps. The problem is that anything less is just a license to hoodwink the consumer by continuing to push the idea that the terms "Napa Valley" or "Sonoma Valley" or "Carneros" or "Russian River Valley" have any meaning whatsoever when it comes communicating what's in the bottle that carries those AVAs on their labels.

My hope is that the TTB will be grateful I've cleared all this up for them and saved them the time of holding costly hearings. I'm not holding my breath.

Anyone who wants more insight into this very important issue should read Alan Goldfarb's Appellation America piece. It lays out the issue wonderfully.


Not a Bad Place for a Wine Film

My little little corner of the world appears to have been transformed into Hollywood North.

The cast and crew of the film "Bottle Shock" have invaded Glen Ellen. The ubiquitous movie trailers are here, the cranes, the porto potties and the minor traffic jams caused by rubberneckers have all found there way in to my little unincorporated town in the middle of Sonoma Valley.

Racheltaylor The filming today appears to be focused on what we in Glen Ellen refer to as the "London Bar". "London" as in "Jack London". The bar is something of a dive and a poor reminder of Glen Ellen's heyday when it supported upwards of 5 or 6 watering holes. I've spent some time there in the past, usually after a late dinner when everything else close to home has shut down and we all were not ready to stop for the night. But the wood paneled, scraggly old bar with its stale popcorn is probably a pretty good place to set a scene or two.

But I know what you are looking for. Celebrity sightings. Well, I'm pretty sure I had a such a sighting. Coming of the Glen Ellen Market, located opposite from the Jack London Bar, I'm positive I walked passed Rachel Taylor, who is cast as an intern at Chateau Montelena in the film about the famed 1976 Paris Tasting that put California on the map. That girl definitely needs to put some meat on her bones.

Glen Ellen is a pretty cool little town. There really isn't much here. A few restaurants, some specialty food shops, a grocery store and a few other things. You can drive through the town in less than a minute. It used to be a resort town.Glenellen Two creeks converge in the town and they made for great swimming and fishing around the turn of the century when city folk would venture up in the summer to hang out on Sonoma Creek. The town of course drew most of its fame from the fact that Jack London made his home here. But by and large the town survived as a result of the "State Home for the Feeble Minded", which is still operating today as the "Sonoma Developmental Center". This large hospital for developmentally handicapped drew hundreds of workers to the town.

Today the wine industry and the attending tourism is what Glen Ellen is probably best known for. The Benziger Family, many years ago started a brand they named after the town, did a great job of marketing it and all of a sudden the name of Glenellenwine my town was on bottles on nearly every table in America.

But through all this, the town really hasn't grown much. It's unincorporated. But if you count those who live in the hills on either side of the town as well as those who live in the flats there might be about 3,500-4000 folks who live here.

Because of this the town has stayed rather quaint. That makes it a fine place to film a wine country-based film. To say the least, it will be fun to watch "Bottle Shock" and see what they've done with the raw material that is Glen Ellen.

Elitism & Wine: Keep It Coming!!

Elitist The wine industry takes a lot of heat for being elitist. It's the way we talk about wine, the way we seem to revere it and it's the trappings of the industry that cause this impression.

One of trappings of the wine industry that can't be disputed is that we all tend to surround ourselves with what many would call "high culture". The kind of music that tends to find its way to wine industry events and into wine country in general is what I'm thinking of here.

Take Jazz for example.

This is not a popular form of music in America. Relatively few folks listen to Jazz. And yet, the music seems to ooze out of wine country helping to cement the impression that wine, wineries, the wine industry and wine country is filled with a bunch of elitists.

My thoughts on this relationship?

KEEP IT COMING!!!

If being happy to associate Jazz music with wine and wine country is "elitist" then give me a walking stick and top hat. I'll wear the top hat with pride and keep my pinky extended as I grip my cane of arrogance.

Best of all, it turns out that my very own Sonoma County is turning into a hotbed of Jazz. Consider this:

-A couple weeks ago Chuchita Valdes played a free concert in the Sonoma Plaza sponsored by the Sonoma Jazz Society

-Dave Brubeck is playing a benefit concert for the Sonoma Country Day School

-Sonoma's Ledson Hotel has started a Jazz series that is bringing Taylor Eigsti and Jamie Davis to town.

-The Annual Healdsburg Jazz Festival has in the past two years put McCoy Tyner, Delfeayo Marsalis, Dave Holland and Roy Hargrove within my reach.

Until some great Jazz Diva comes along who chooses to sing about her tits and ass, to sing half naked and to makes videos that feature ripped gents and scantily clad female associates, Jazz is going to stay well off the mainstream radar and be perceived as elitist.

But as long as there is a wine industry and a wine loving set that feel there is an affinity between the art of wine making and high art, I'll be sitting pretty here in Sonoma.



A Chance To Take Down The Munchkin

Rpsevent_2 One of the very best (meaning fun) winery events I've ever attended was the Roshambo Rock-Paper-Scissors World Championships. As Virginie Boone at WineAbout Blog points out, there was fear that Roshambo would not be able to carry on with this contest of skill, wit and intuition after having sold their winery to Silver Oak.

Naomi Brilliant wouldn't let that happen.

The 5th Annual Roshambo Rock-Paper-Scissors World Championships is set for October 6th at the Flamingo Hotel in Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, California.

I've competed in this event before. I even trained for it...a little. When it came my time to throw my fist into the fray I was soundly defeated by what appeared to be a 10 year old boy with some sort of supernatural intuition. I did not think it possible that he would know my plan to always throw paper. The little savant however threw scissors every single time. I was outwitted by a munchkin. THAT WON'T HAPPEN AGAIN!

Despite that setback, it turned out that getting a little tanked up on Roshambo Zin and SB and competing with a ten year-old on the Rock-Paper-Scissors battleground turned out to be loads of fun. I recommend this event highly.

The folks at Roshambo have not lost their edge after selling their amazing facility to Silver Oak. Anyone who knows Naomi never thought she would. It struck me she'd either get out of the business altogether or carry on valiantly, slashing her way through the sometimes mind-numbing baroqueness that can be the wine industry.

The other good news is that Roshambo has joined a co-op tasting room right here in my own Sonoma Valley. Roshambo wines can be found at Cornerstone Gardens, a very cool stop at the entrance to the Valley that includes not only a tasting room but some very cool and weird shops, not to mention a smart cafe.

So, put it down on your calendar:
5th Annual Roshambo Rock-Paper-Scissors World Championships
October 6th
Flamingo Resort Hotel
2777 4th Street, Santa Rosa , CA

The Most Recent Best Moment of Your Life

Tahoe
Some time ago, and I can't quite recall when, I posted about the pleasure of finding just the right place to drink wine. I'm sure I stated unequivocally that the best place to do so was in laying in my hammock, in my back yard, with a glass of Rose on a warm summer evening.

It turns out there is a contender for the crown.

In the middle of Emerald Bay on Lake Tahoe, on a warm summer day with good friends.

This weekend I did some boating up on Lake Tahoe with my good friend Jeff Mayo of Mayo Family Winery, his lovely girlfriend Laura, Sarah Donnelly of William Selyem and of course with my beautiful bride Ginny. We were drinking an 05 Donnhoff Riesling while drifting in Jeff's vintage craft. We got in the bay when it turned out few people were around. It was quiet. We were full from a nice lunch of Kobe Beef Burgers with Rose and Sancerre.

There was a strange moment as we drifted in the water and stared up at the emerald island in the bay, listened to the calm of the water and felt the sun and took in the towering mountains that surrounded us. Out of no where Jeff declared, "I don't think I've ever drunk a better wine in my life!"

Now, I know Jeff has had better wine. I've served them to him. But with his remark what he got was an immediate acknowledgment from everyone in the boat.

It was not only the best wine Jeff had ever had in his life, but it was the best wine I and everyone else had ever had in their lives. There was quiet agreement among us. But of course the agreement had nothing to do with the the quality of the wine.

The best wine you've ever had in your life must surely be the wine you're drinking during the most recent best moment in your life.





Communing with my Imagination

Dupratt Anyone who isn't dreaming about a better life or at least a lifestyle more suited to their disposition probably isn't very imaginative.

So, count me among the imaginative.

Now and again I'll peruse the various wine/vineyard real estate listings, usually just to see who is selling what, to discover what the going prices is for vineyards and wineries, etc. Yesterday I came across this Anderson Valley/Mendocino Ridge property that looks pretty tempting. and gets the imagination going:




Anderson Valley/Mendocino Ridge appellation
80 acres
Remote
Access to the metropolis of Boonville and Philo
12 acres of Old Vine Zin, Chard and Pinot
A very good reputation for the grapes
More room to plant
Two homes
Room for another home
Ponds.
$2 Million

One of the most tempting parts of this property is, of course, the vineyard. DuPratt has yielded grapes thatDupratt2 have been made into outstanding wines by Navarro and Steel. The Zin portion of the vineyard was planted about 90 years ago. The vineyard itself is at an elevation of 1,200 feet meaning the cooler weather produces grapes that lead to wines of "mountain" character. Read: Good backbone and structure. And it appears that there are folks more than willing to line up to buy the grapes if the new buyer isn't inclined to make their own wine. Were you to sell the grapes off the Dupratt vineyard its unlikely you'd get anywhere close to covering your mortgage. But the view of the vineyards from your house might make up for that.

The other tempting part of this property is the location. Anderson Valley and it's surrounding ridges is simply a stunning locale that is likely being discovered by buyers as we speak. I certainly see more and more Anderson Valley wines these days. My experience with the the folks that live there has been wonderful also. Good people.

I wonder if one could run a public relations firm from this location?

Anyone up for a commune?



Celebrating Nothing Specific in Sonoma County

The Sunday Santa Rosa Press Democrat had an interesting ad in it placed by the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. In it they identify Sonoma County restaurants where 75% of the wines on their lists. are from Sonoma County and restaurants where 50% of the wines on their lists are from Sonoma County. These restaurants are congratulated for supporting Sonoma County, its growers, etc.

This is a nice way to both encourage more Sonoma County-centric wine lists and to let diners know what restaurants they can go to in order to find a nice selection of Sonoma County wines.

But it's the third category in the ad that interests me: "Sonoma County Star Wineries". These are wineries that produce bottlings with "Sonoma County listed on the label".

Are these wineries being congratulated for following labeling laws? Or are they being congratulated for listing an appellation that tells the consumer very little about the source of the grapes that made the wine?

"Sonoma County" is a huge region that includes "Sonoma Coast", "Carneros", "Russian River Valley", "Sonoma Valley", "Alexander Valley", "Knights Valley", "Dry Creek Valley" and other appellations and sub-appellations. Wines that carry the "Sonoma County" appellation need only have used grapes that came from any combination of these appellations. Suffice to say, Zinfandel grapes grown in Glen Ellen in "Sonoma Valley" struggle under quite different climatic circumstances than Zinfandel grown in the Russian River Valley. And we aren't even talking about soil factors.

By encouraging growers, wineries and consumers to celebrate the "Sonoma County" appellation we are encouraging them to celebrate nothing specific.  It's the celebration of a brand, not a place that can be said to have any specific regional character.

However, I don't want to suggest that the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission is trying to put anything over on anyone. They are very upfront about their mission and goals:

"Sonoma County Winegrape Commission will allow Sonoma County to promote its grapes and wines at a level consistent with other winegrowing regions.  NOW is the opportunity for all county growers to support this marketing and production research efforts."

"Sonoma County" has a lot of competitors in "wine region branding" department. It in fact must compete with other more meaningful regions and appellations INSIDE Sonoma County, not to mention efforts on behalf of "Lake County", "Monterey County" and numerous other terroirless areas.

For my money, the better educational and promotional effort is put into promoting much more specific appellations that produce wines consumers can have real expectations about.

How to "DO" Sonoma Valley

Sonomasign Last night I was thumbing through National Geograhic Traveller and I come across one of those "how to DO" articles about Disneyworld. Insider trips, how to get te best out of the experience, etc. I like these articles. Every now and then they have a nugget in them that can transform your experience.  But it got me thinking, as Tourist Season heads toward us here in my neck of the woods, there needs to be a HOW TO "DO" SONOMA  VALLEY" article. It might include things like this:

1. LEAVE THE KIDS AT HOME
. There is so little for kids to do here in Sonoma Valley when on vacation that they may not ever forgive you for taking. They'll only put up with so much Chardonnay "juice" and strolling before they revolt. Leave them with someone and take off.

2. GO IN MID TO LATE SPRING. The crowds are less, reservations are easier to get and the Valley is stunningly beautiful. Also, it's a time of year when the vines are pushing their green but you can still see the architecture of the older vines before they get draped with leaves.

3. FIND A HOTEL ON OR NEAR THE SONOMA PLAZA. Maybe I'll get letters from the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn down the road a few miles from the Plaza, but I'll risk it. There is nothing nicer than strolling the Plaza in the evening when the crowds have left. Plus, many of the restaurants you'll want to try are in walking distance of Plaza. Also, you've got three good "locals" bars on the plaza as well as two restaurant/hotel bars where the people watching is fun.

4. TAKE A DAY TO VISIT THE EAST SIDE OF SONOMA. While most folks are heading up valley to the wineries and little towns, you'll discover the beautiful old homes along the streets to the east side of the Plaza and the Carneros region with its rolling hill and great Pinots.

5. TAKE TWO DAYS TO DO WINERIES.
Use one day to do those around Glen Ellen and a day to do those around Kenwood. You want to be sipping, not driving, even though the distance between Glen Ellen and Kenwood is negligible.

6. FIND A LOCAL PERSON TO SHIP YOUR WINES BACK HOME.
At some wineries you'll buy 2 bottles at some a case of wine at another six bottles. Try to find someone who will pack and ship it all to you rather than having different wineries do it for you. In fact when you buy a case of wine from a winery and are having them ship it, ask if they'll ship the rest of your wines. It's likely they'll do this for you.

7. GET A GOOD MAP. With it drive those roads that are off the beating trail of Highway 12 and see how we live, how we used to live and the real beauty of this area. Get acquainted with Moon Mountain Road, Warm Springs Road, Sonoma Mountain Road, Trinity Road, and Lawnsdale Road.

8. VISIT LOCAL WINE SHOPS. That's all we have here are wine shops run by locals who know everyone and everything happening in the Valley. Taylor & Norton Wine Merchants and the Sonoma Wine Exchange are recommended. The selections are ridiculously good, eclectic, and if you talk to the folks at the shops you'll get the inside scoop not only on the area but maybe even some good town gossip.

9. ARRANGE YOUR PRIVATE WINERY VISITS BEFORE YOU ARRIVE. As with any wine region there are wineries open to the public and those that accept visitors by appointment. Do your research before you arrive. Make the calls and make the appointments before you arrive. Your time at these "appointment only" wineries are likely to be just you and the proprietor or perhaps one other couple. Take advantage of this intimacy and ask the questions that tasting room folk may not have time for. And, buy some wine.

10. FLY IN AND OUT OF THE SACRAMENTO AIRPORT. It's just a lot easier and more convenient than San Francisco or even Oakland. It's a quick shot from Sacramento to Sonoma that shouldn't take more than 75 to 90 minutes. Very little traffic. The airport is easy to deal with.

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-13-07 Edition

What In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

HINT: Do You know Your Bordeaux Chateaux?

April1397

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-12-07 Edition

What In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

April12279

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-11-07 Edition

Where In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

HINT: Only 331 acres of vineyards exist in this place's appellation

April11133

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-10-07 Edition

Where In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

April10228

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-9-07 Edition

What In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

HINT: Mean July Temperature is 71.5 F; Altitude is 98 Feet; Harvest occurs Sept-Nov; Main grapes grown in region are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

April9273

A Wine Place Puzzle: 4-6-07 Edition

What In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

HINT: It is approximately 474 miles northwest of our April 5th Wine Place Puzzle.
April6103

A WinePlace Puzzle: 4-5-07 Edition

Where In The World Is This "Wine Place"?
While Fermentation & Family is on holiday, we offer you these intriquing place-puzzles, brought to you by the GoogleEarth.

Place your guesses in the comments section of this post. No prizes, just pride. The answers will be revealed on April 16
.

April5211

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